Ferris' EVERGREENS 
following 
pages you 
will find, 
the 
FINEST 
EVERGREEN 
Bargains 
With a lifetime experience as Evergreen Specialists, we are 
anxious to help you in making your evergreen planting a com¬ 
plete success. Good trees and plants are, naturally, the first step 
towards success. For 67 years we have been diligently building 
our reputation of “Quality Nursery Stock” — producing strong, 
sturdy, heavy root systems, and ultimately the healthiest and most 
vigorous stock that can be grown. It is this kind of trees and 
plants that we send to our customers, and in addition we pack 
them right. Start a successful planting by purchasing our high 
quality stock, properly handled. 
ever 
offered. 
In our Direct-to-Purchaser method, our trees are dug fresh from 
the nursery row, packed carefully, and are on the road to the 
customer within 2 or 3 hours’ time. Then, we have four railroads 
through Hampton, going in all directions, and each and every 
shipment is billed direct to the customer. Good, careful packing 
is essential, also. We have spent considerable study and expense on the best packing 
methods ever since we started in the business, and give our customers the most expert 
packing service on their orders. We have shipped into every section of the United States 
for many years, with remarkable success, for Ferris trees and plants are packed so that 
they reach our customers in as good condition as they came from the nursery row. 
Riverside, III., 
Feb. 24, 1935. 
Gentlemen: All our Evergreens that we bought 
of you last year are in wonderful condition and 
surely look beautiful. Even the little seedlings 
lived. We have room for loads more of your 
Evergreens. MRS. W. W. ROE. 
Cherry Creek, N. Y., 
Sept. 6, 1935. 
Dear Sir: In checking up on the large stock 
of trees and hedging plants we purchased of you 
last spring, we are delighted to find every item 
growing just splendidly. Will surely give you 
our next order. JOHN H. SANDERSON. 
How to Properly Plant Balled 
and Burlapped Evergreens 
W: Nilrr'l , 
2. PLACE TREE IN 
HOLE SLIGHTLY . 
JPEEPER THAN TOPJ 
[of BALLOF EARTHS) 
A PACK TOP SOIL 
pL FIRMLY WITH 
I X) FEET OR BY 
//FILLING HOLE 
// WITH WATER. 
. • .. - 4 . 
; CUT OFF BURLAP ON 
TOP OR ROLL IT BACK- 
1 
DIG HOLE AT LEAST A FOOT LARGER AND 
DEEPER THAN EARTH ATTACHED TO TREE. 
COMPLETELY SURROUND ROOT OR BALL 
OF EARTH WITH RICH LOAMY TOP SOIL. 
ADD LOOSE SOIL UNTIL THE HOLE IS FILLED 
AND PACK FIRMLY AND LEAVE LIBERAL 
SUPPLY OF LOOSE EARTH ON TOP. 
HOW TO GROW EVERGREENS SUCCESSFULLY 
IMPORTANT RULES WE URGE YOU TO FOLLOW 
1. Examine the trees at express, freight or 
truck office, and call any damage to the attention 
of the agent at once, as all trees will be in perfect 
condition when they leave the nursery. 
2. Have your ground ready for planting by the 
time the trees arrive. It should be good growing 
soil such as you would use for a corn crop or 
garden, and prepared in much the same manner. 
Never plant on new sod. If there is sod where you 
wish to plant, strip the sod for a width of 6 feet 
the length of the row, or a space 4 by 4 feet may 
be stripped and a tree planted in the center of 
each space. Thoroughly work and pulverize the 
soil from which the sod has been stripped. 
B & B 
BALLED AND BURLAPPED 
WHAT IT MEANS 
By Balling and Burlapping, we mean that 
as the tree is dug a solid ball of rich, heavy 
loam, in which the tree has been growing 
for years, comes up around the root system 
completely protecting it in every way, and this 
ball of solid earth is firmed and held in place 
by a secure covering of burlap and heavy 
twine. Our ground here at the nursery is the 
finest in the world for Balling Evergreens. 
Then, when you place these Balled-and- 
Burlapped trees on your grounds, following 
closely the directions we give for them on 
page 39, these roots keep right on growing in 
this good rich soil that has nurtured them for 
years, little by little extending into the new 
surrounding soil. Is it any wonder that Ferris’ 
Balled-and-Burlapped Evergreens are easier to 
grow? 
It is not advisable to Ball-and-Burlap seed¬ 
ling evergreens, small sized ornamentals, or 
windbreak trees. In the windbreak row, ever¬ 
greens can be cultivated much better than in 
an ornamental planting. 
3. Always plant as soon as the trees reach 
you. Do not expose the roots to the air. When 
you have everything ready to plant, unpack 
the shipment, putting the roots of eoch tree 
into a thick mud puddle, so that as much of 
this thick substance as possible will cling to 
the roots. 
4. Plant deeply and firmly, spreading the 
roots out in their natural positions, and press 
the soil around each tiny root with all of your 
might. Evergreens should be planted from 2 to 
6 inches deeper than they were in the nursery 
row, depending on the size of the tree. At the 
top of the ground leave a little loose soil to pre¬ 
vent the ground from baking. 
5. Start cultivation at once; cultivate well 
and often during the growing season. This 
should be done for the first 2 years. Evergreens 
will not thrive or give best results in a weed 
patch. If you cannot cultivate, give them a very 
heavy mulching of well-rotted straw or old 
sawdust as soon as your trees are planted. 
9. For Balled and Burlapped Evergreens. 
Dig a hole about twice the size of your ball, 
and plant the tree at once. If the ground is dry 
at planting time, fill the hole with water, and 
let it soak away before putting in the tree. 
Take care to handle the tree carefully so as 
not to break the hall, place it in the hole so 
that the tree will be a few inches deeper than 
it had been in the nursery, then cut the bur¬ 
lap at the top of the ball, rolling it back for 
3 otj4 inches. Plant ball, burlap and all, using 
good growing soil to pack around the ball, and 
be sure to pack this soil firmly. The drawing 
on this page shows each step in planting Balled 
Evergreens. 
10. For Seedlings and Small Transplanted 
Evergreens. This applies to seedlings and once 
transplanted grades. Plant them in a garden 
spot or in beds for the first two years, and care 
for them as you would cabbage plants. 
Correct Distance 
to Plant 
Evergreens for 
Windbreaks 
The distance apart that 
Evergreens should be plant' 
ed depends very much on 
the number of rows used, j 
We advise 8 feet apart in a | 
single row, 10 feet apart j 
each way in two rows, H j 
feet apart each way in three J 
rows; but the ideal wind' j 
break is a four' or five'row 5 
windbreak, planted 14 ieet l 
apart in the row and the j 
rows 20 feet apart. The J 
space between the rows can j 
be used for potatoes, corn, I 
or any vegetable. 
6. A judicious trimming is also beneficial to transplanted Ever¬ 
greens. Trim about one-fourth of the foliage from your trees as you 
plant them. This may cause them to appear a trifle slim for a year 
or two, but they will be all the better for it in the end. In trimming 
Evergreens, do not cut off the terminal bud on the leader (tip), hut 
trim back other branches about one-fourth. 
7. Regardless of locality, see to it that your young grove is se¬ 
curely fenced when planted. Nothing is more injurious to young 
Evergreens than livestock in the yard to trample them down. 
8. If you are having dry weather at planting time, you should 
water your Evergreens thoroughly about every other evening until 
you get a soaking rain. Do this through all dry spells for the first 
year or two. This is especially necessary in foundation plantings of 
ornamental Evergreens, where the trees get a strong reflection 
from the sun and the ground dries out more readily. 
Page 39 
