LOUIS R. FISCHER 
13 
Cultural Directions 
SOIL PREPARATION 
The soil best suited for the growing of gladiolus should not be too heavy and not too 
sandy. If too heavy add some humus material such as leaf mold, manure, etc., and perhaps 
.some sand if soil is a heavy clay loam. To very light soils add peat, manure or leaf-mould 
as this will help to hold the moisture and keep the soil from drying out. All soils should 
have plenty of humus or the action of commercial fertilizers will not be so effective. 
Gladiolus will grow in any soil, but a little preparation will pay you well. 
PLANTING 
Before planting the bulbs, work the soil to a depth of eight to ten inches. Plant in 
rows eighteen inches apart and three inches between the bulbs in the row. They can also 
be planted in beds, placing the bulbs six inches apart each way. Place the bulbs six inches 
deep in light soil and four inches in heavy soil. Small bulbs are planted more shallow. 
Plant in full sun if possible. 
FERTILIZING 
IManure should be well worked into the soil in the fall. Use a commercial fertilizer 
in the spring, placing it below the bulbs or else working it well into the soil before plant¬ 
ing. Five pounds to a one-hundred foot row is the amount to use. A fertilizer high in 
phosphoric acid should be used at this time, such as 4-16-4 or one of similar formula. 
The first figure indicates the percentage of nitrogen, the second phosphoric acid and the 
third, potash. A second application may be made between the rows when the leaves are 
six to ten inches high. If you wish to grow extra large spikes, use a fertilizer high in 
nitrogen about the time the buds begin to appear. One to two pounds is sufficient for a 
hundred-foot row. 
WATERING AND CULTIVATING 
Water every four or five days if necessary, but be sure to give them a good soaking 
when you do. Light sprinkling does more harm than good. Keep the surface of the soil 
well stirred up. Cultivate after each rain or watering to keep a crust from forming. 
Thrip 
Thrip are tiny insects that feed on the leaves and blossoms. They live over winter in 
rubbish piles or on the bulbs in storage. Control of thrips in storage can be accomplished 
by placing the bulbs in bags or closed boxes and spreading naphthaline flakes over them. One 
ounce to one hundred bulbs is sufficient. Close the container tightly and leave for two 
or three weeks in a warm room. Then remove the naphthaline and place in cool tempera¬ 
ture. Another good treatment is to soak the bulbs for four hours in Corrosive Sublimate, 
one ounce to ten gallons of water, using a wood or earthen container. This is also a pre¬ 
ventive against scab on the bulbs. 
Summer control of thrip can be accomplished by spraying the foliage at ten-day inter¬ 
vals, beginning when the plant makes its second and third leaves. One ounce of paris green 
(two tablespoons), two pounds brown sugar and three gallons of water has proven a good 
formula. A good pressure in spraying is beneficial. Care must be taken not to spray in the 
heat of the day as the paris green might burn the foliage slightly. Three or four applica¬ 
tions are usually all that is necessary but you must start spraying when the plants are small 
Disease Control 
Scab or neck rot can be controlled to a great extent by the following practice: Destroy 
all diseased bulbs, dip all bulbs in a good disinfectant and plant on clean ground that is 
well drained. Corrosive Sublimate is a good dip, using the same formula and treatment as 
for thrip. Calogreen has been found to be unusually effective in the control of scab. Dip 
just before planting for five minutes, using one-half ounce to one gallon of water. A little 
Calogreen must be added occasionally to keep the strength up. Metal containers may be 
used. Spraying the foliage during the summer with Bordeaux Mixture, using eight to 
ten tablespoons to one gallon of water, is also beneficial in the control of neck rot. 
