%oses 
Flowering Shrubs 
Fruit Trees 
31 
still, cut out entirely) the central leader of the) 
tree, if one exists, otherwise, the tree may 
assume a too upright growth for best results in 
later life. Pruning, for the next two or three 
years, should be directed toward the forming of 
an ideal framework for the bearing of fruit. 
Growth from each of the three or five original 
branches should be pruned in such a manner 
that the tree will become symmetrical and well 
balanced, with a low wide-headed top. 
PEACH AND APRICOT. Plant as previously 
directed. As soon as planted, cut the top out 
of the tree at any point from 18 inches to three 
feet from the ground and at the same time cut 
back all side branches to within two or three 
inches from the main trunk. Eliminate alto¬ 
gether the branches that will not be required to 
form the permanent framework of the tree. Some 
planters may consider these recommendations 
radical and ill advised, but every planter should 
make them his invariable practice and not de¬ 
viate from them. In pruning these trees, it 
should be the effort of the planter to get the 
main limbs as close to the ground as possible, 
encouraging a low, wide head. Such pruning 
will promote more vigorous and rapid growth 
and will insure success with these trees, when 
to act otherwise may mean failure. 
CHERRY TREES. Plant as previously di¬ 
rected. The cherry does not require the same 
vigorous pruning as is recommended for some 
other trees. Broken or injured limbs should be 
removed close to the trunk so that the wounds 
will grow over properly. Five to six good limbs, 
well distributed around the trunk, will be suffi¬ 
cient to form a well balanced top. The limbs 
which are left after pruning should not be cut 
back as recommended for certain other classes 
of trees. 
PLUM TREES. Plant as previously directed. 
After planting, cut out the main or central leader 
of the tree at a distance of about three feet from 
the ground. Cut back all remaining branches to 
about 2 or 3 inch stubs. After the tree has 
grown for a year, remove all but four or five 
branches—but do not cut these back. These limbs 
will form the permanent framework for the top 
and subsequent growth may be pruned to meet 
the requirements or taste of the planter. 
BERRIES. (The “Cane Fruits”). Prepare the 
ground by deep spading or plowing. Set the 
plants 3 or 4 inches deep, using a spade or garden 
trowel. Plant in rows 4 to 6 feet apart with the 
plants from 2 to 4 feet apart in the row. Firm 
the dirt around each plant. Keep the surface 
of the ground loose around the plants. The cane 
fruits bear on wood of the previous season’s 
growth and it is important, therefore, to cut the 
old canes away as soon as they have fruited, or 
in the fall or winter following. The following 
year, when the canes are three to four feet high, 
cut them back one-third to strengthen the cane 
and to promote growth of lateral branches for 
more fruit production. 
GRAPE VINES. In vineyard planting, grape 
vines should be planted 8 to 10 feet apart in rows 
which are 9 to 10 feet apart. Grapes require a 
dry, mellow, well drained soil, deeply worked and 
well enriched, with a warm, sunny exposure 
where possible. In planting give the roots plenty 
of room, spread them out not more than 6 inches 
under the surface and settle the soil firmly around 
them. When vines are set, they should be cut 
back to 2 or 3 buds, also prune roots back one- 
half. The following year, in November or in the 
early spring, following, before there are any signs 
of new growth, they should be pruned liberally. 
Do not pick off the foliage; the leaves, not the 
fruit, should be exposed to the sun. The two 
great errors in grape growing are in neglecting 
to cut off useless wood in the fall or spring and 
in depriving the plant of necessary foliage by 
close pruning in the summer. The method of 
pruning from this stage forward will be gov¬ 
erned by the use or purpose in mind. For fruit 
production, the following method is to be recom¬ 
mended : Set posts along the rows of vines (after 
they have made at least one year’s growth) and 
stretch two strong wires, the lower wire 2 1 / 4 feet 
from the ground and the upper wire 5 feet. A 
single cane from the vine is grown to the top 
wire. All buds are broken from this except 
four, two just below each wire. As these buds 
grow out, they are fastened to the wire, one in 
each direction—forming four arms. In the fall 
or winter, cut these “arms” back to four or 
eight buds, according to the vigor of the vines. 
In the spring, tie these arms securely to the wire 
and allow the growth from each bud to hang 
down. Each year in the future cut out all new 
growth from the original arms, except the two 
new canes nearest and on either side of the main 
trunk. These canes are cut back to 6 to 10 buds. 
The fruit of the grape is borne only on shoots of 
the current year’s growth, which spring from the 
wood of last year’s growth—hence the importance 
of annual and intelligent pruning. When grape 
vines are planted to grow over arbors, psrgolas 
walls, fence, etc., the lateral branches or “shoots” 
from the main trunk should be cut back each 
year to within three or four buds. During the 
growing season, all buds that start from the main 
vine should be removed. 
SHRUBS. If planted in beds or groups, the 
ground should be spaded deeply and worked well. 
If shrubs are set as individual specimens, they 
should be planted in the same manner as trees. 
Set shrubs at the same depth at which they stood 
in the nursery row or with their crowns at about 
the surface of the ground. The plants should be 
watered in summer during the hot, dry weather 
and the ground stirred well around them. Remove 
the dead wood and weak shoots from the inside 
of the shrub and shorten the branches that have 
made undesirable growth. When shrubs are 
planted, it is advisable to cut them back from 
one-third to one-half. 
SHADE TREES, ORNAMENTAL TREES. Dig 
holes large enough to accommodate all roots 
without bending or cramping them. Fill the hole 
with good top dirt and firm it hard. When the 
hole is half filled, allow a bucket or more of 
water to seep away around the roots. A day or 
two later, tramp the dirt hard, but leave loose 
dirt on the surface. It is well to mulch the tree 
immediately to prevent drying out. Prune all 
limbs back to five or seven good buds, even 
though the appearance of the tree is impaired 
hv such treatment. Water the trees during the 
summer months and give them plenty of atten¬ 
tion until they become well established. Shade 
trees often may be staked to advantage until their 
roots have obtained good anchorage in the soil. 
EVERGREENS. Plant the same as shade trees, 
but do not prune. 
PRIVET. Dig a trench 12 inches deep or more 
and set the plants 4 to 6 inches deeper than they 
stood in the nursery row—or so deep that tho 
lower branches will be 4 to 6 inches under the 
ground line, for, if the plants are set shallow, 
there always will be undesirable open spaces at 
the base of the hedge. Some planters set privet 
in a double row, 8 to 10 inches apart each way, 
which makes a very dense hedge. Cut Privet 
back one-half to two-thirds when planting to 
promote thick, new growth at the lower part of 
the plant. 
