102 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
March 5, 1904. 
Hardy Fruit. 
Planting Fruit Trees.—Since the advent of the new year 
the weather has been much against this work being carried 
out; in fact, little or nothing cculd be done with the ground 
in such a soddened state, but all arrears in thisi department 
must be brought to a conclusion as speedily as possible, or the 
trees will have but little chance to recuperate themselves 
against the drying winds of early spring, of which we stand 
much in need after such a continual downpour of rain. Like¬ 
wise, all pruning should be pushed on without delay, as most 
fruit trees and bushes, with the exception of Vines, Figs, and 
Apples, are fast on the move, while those planted after this, date) 
would he the better unpinned until nest autumn, unless it be 
any extra long growths, which may be slightly shortened; but 
with well-managed trees from. a. nursery this should not be the. 
case. Gat. all trained trees in position, allowing ample space 
for the. swelling of the shoots, and examine standard trees, a;si it. 
is quite likely the stakes have, got more play than is good for 
the tree, owing to the incessant rainfall throughout the country. 
Should the present mild weather continue, the mulch placed 
around fruit trees would be as well removed for the time', so as 
to admit s.un and air—both beneficial aidsi to growth of root 
and branch. 
Top-dressing Borders.—Here again delay has been caused 
by the impropitious weather, but asi soon a.s weather permits 
strain eveiy nerve to get. this important work brought to. a. 
close, remembering former advice .as to first removing 2 in. 
or 3 in. of the* surface .soil without damaging the roots, and re¬ 
placing with fibrous loam, having a fair percentage of soot 
and wood ashes mixed in, and not omitting the old lime r ubble 
or plaster, or, failing this, newly-slaked lime for all stone 
fruits. 
Morello Cherries.—These are very forward, owing to the ex¬ 
tremely mild weather of late, and where trees were badly in¬ 
fested last year with that, dreadful pest the black aphis, I would 
counsel growers of this fruit to give the trees another spraying 
with quassia, extract or tobacco water, thoroughly wetting every 
part of the wood and wall, choosing a bright day for the 
job, so, that, the insecticide may make itself felt, on the enemy, 
the effect of which is, lost during showery weather. 
Pears.—Some of the early-flowering varieties against warm 
walls will soon be expanding their blossoms 1 , and if a crop is 
expected some kind of protection must be afforded them. 
Much can be clone this way by placing bracken or spruce, 
boughs over the branches in lieu of more costly material, such 
as tiffany or hexagon being employed ; this tied on securely 
will ward off a deal of frost or hail. With large trees in the 
open it is a more difficult question, but if tall poles or Pea 
stakes be stuck in, layers of fish netting or tiffany are easily ad¬ 
justed, but endeavour to keep it, clear of the blossom if pos¬ 
sible, or hoar-frost may blacken the same and spell ruin to the 
crop. The trees in general show abundance of blossom buds, 
and it. is to be hoped they will be found perfect when expanded, 
when, under a genial spring, good crops may be. looked for, in 
spite of the untoward summer, much against the ripening of 
the wood and the formation of fruit buds. 
Miscellaneous.— j At the time of writing there is a decided 
improvement in the weather, .and frost may be expected ; 
therefore the gardener must be on the alert, and see that, the, 
wood of Fig trees is properly protected in thei colder counties 
if very severe frost sets in, and that early-flowering Peach 
trees get ample protection, though a week or two of cold 
weather would retard the latter, and no doubt be beneficial to 
the trees as. well as the' crop later on. Thke advantage of fine 
days to remove all weeds among Strawberry plantations, as 
well as that of the Raspberry, shortening the canes to a firm 
bud if not already done, and thei pruning of the Filbert should 
no longer’ be delayed. We still have a few cooking Apples left, 
which are looked over weekly and decaying fruit removed, ven¬ 
tilating the room for a few hours on fine days, and, though it 
is full early to speak of grafting, the covering material, where 
clay is still used, should begot in readiness, so that in a week or 
two,, when the sap is on. the move, the work may be under¬ 
taken without any hindrance, removing any stones or grit, 
and mixing a, small quantity of chopped hay and a little horse 
droppings, which will assist to bind the whole together. 
Bicton, Devonshire. James Mayne. 
Among the Orchids. 
Miltonia vexillaria.—There are no species of Orchids that 
make a finer display than this Miltonia when well cultivated. 
From four to six scapes are quite possible from a single 
growth, and each scape carrying five or six flowers. There is 
certainly nothing looks finer than a large, thoroughly-healthy 
specimen covered with its delicately-tinted flowers. The flower 
scapes are now making their appearance wdthin the leaves. At 
this' period, when the pseudo-bulb is completed, new roots are 
freely emitted from their base. 1 have advocated for many 
years past repotting the plants at the time when the new roots 
make their appearance. I am well aware that some prominent 
cultivators of Orchids will agree to differ with me on this 
season of potting, but I am willing to depend on my own ex¬ 
perience, obtained, perhaps', under the most unfavourable con¬ 
ditions possible, and I have every confidence in advocating 
spring repotting in preference to attending to. their require¬ 
ments in this direction in the autumn. 
Annual repotting is necessary. Turn the plants out, of then 
pots, and carefully remove the old potting compost,; cut, away 
dead roots and decayed matter about the base of the pseudo- 
bulbs. If it is desirable to increase the stock, it may be done 
by cutting the rhizome asunder and removing the old pseudo- 
bulbs. 
In repotting, select pots sufficiently large to contain the 
plants comfortably; drain to about two-thirds their depths 
with bracken roots, chopped to a desirable size. After placing 
the plant in position, fill in. the remaining space with a com¬ 
post consisting of fibrous peat and chopped sphagnum moss in 
about equal proportions • add to, this a liberal sprinkling of 
rough silver-sand and a few finely-chopped dried Oak or Beech 
leaves. Press the compost moderately firm, and mould it 
slightly to the centre. Water the plants when repotting is 
completed with rain-water, poured through a moderately coarse 
rose on the watering-can. Arrange the plants in 4 , position 
well up to the roof glass,; protect the plants from the direct 
rays of the sun for a week or two until the new roots have 
got hold of the potting compost, after which ample light may 
be given. 
Thrip are the greatest, pests to be contended with ; therefore 
it is advisable' to dip the plants in a nicotine wash a day or 
two before repotting the plants ; then, if the plants are after¬ 
wards subjected to regular spraying, there will not be found 
any great difficulty in keeping the pest in check. 
M. bleuana.—The hybrid obtained from the intercrossing 
of M. vexillaria and M. Roozlii I have found much less, difficult 
to cultivate than either of the parents. It is much more 
easily flowered, and the delicate tints, on the many-flowered 
racemes, which are generally larger than either of the parents, 
make it a most attractive plant -which is thoroughly deserving 
of a place in every collection. It, flowers at various seasons 
of the year, but, like M. vexillaria, its potting requirements 
are best attended to at the completion of the pseudo-bulbs, and 
when new roots are not too far advanced. Care must be taken 
not to allow either M. vexillaria, or M. bleuana to remain 
long in a temperature of less than 55 deg. If this is main¬ 
tained at the normal degree during winter there will he ample 
