232 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
March 19, 1904. 
Hardy Herbaceous Border. 
Violas.—There are few low-growing subjects which are more 
useful or more admired than these charming perennials, and 
the various.purposes for which they can be used makes them 
extremely valuable, as they require very little attention and 
continue to flower from spring till late in autumn 1 . As carpet¬ 
ing plants^ beneath taller-growing subjects, or on the; front of 
the herbaceous borders, or planted in small groups in the 
shrubbery they are veiy useful, but it is when a border, whether 
it be a wide or-narrow one, can be devoted entirely to them, 
that they are seen to the best advantage. Violas can, of 
course, be. treated as perennials,. and where this is the case, the 
old plants should now receive a, top-dressing of some good sandy, 
soil, but much better results are obtained by taking cuttings 
annually. Owing to the diying winds and sun the. ground is 
now in a workable condition, and assuming that the cuttings 
which were inserted last autumn are now well, rooted, these 
may be planted at any time. The border should be raked 
down level and the plants lifted with a good ball of soil, so that 
the roots are disturbed as little asi possible. The best display 
will be obtained by planting each variety in a, separate batch, 
and seeing that the colours! are well blended. This, should be 
done in rowsi, and the early bloomsi should be picked off for 
some time to come, until the plants become well established.. 
Phloxes from seed.—Very good results may be obtained by 
this method if seed of a good- strain is procured, and if not 
already done the seed should now be sown and raised in a 
moderate beat. When the seedlings are large enough to handle 
they 'should be pricked off into shallow boxes', using a light, 
rich soil, and see that the plants do not suffer for want of 
moisture at the roots. Thoroughly harden off and plant out 
when large enough on a, piece of well prepared ground, not less 
than 1 ft.- between each plant. Many will probably flower 
during the autumn, and if grown in, a bed the best colours can 
be easily selected. Cuttings which can now be obtained from 
the young growths of the older stocks will quickly root if in¬ 
serted singly in small pots and light soil. These will flower 
in the .autumn if well looked after, and very large trusses of 
bloom are procured by this method. 
Eremurus. — As; the growths of these will now be pushing 
through the surface, some precaution must be taken to protect 
them against cold, cutting winds and spring frosts, for, if ex¬ 
posed toi these, the foliage will be considerably damaged. A 
few fine ashes, will be sufficient for a time, but as the growths 
expand some spruce boughs or something similar should be 
placed thickly round. Eremurus arei among the most stately of 
herbaceous plants and give a, most pleasing effect' when planted 
singly in the border. They succeed in the majority of soils:, 
and should be planted 9 ini. or 1 ft. below the surface so as to 
render them, practically secure against frost,. Autumn is the 
best time for planting, but this can he done in the early spring 
if they are obtained in pots or pans. 
Leucojum vernum.—This, the Spring Snowflake, is one of 
the prettiest of the early-flowering bulbs. The flowers, which 
are pure white tipped with green, appear at the same time 
as the common Snowdrop, and somewhat resemble this Galan- 
thus, except that they are large and borne on longer spikes. 
The foliage is narrow, about 1 ft. in, length, and this plant, is 
veiy serviceable for using in a cut, state. L. vernum ca.rpati- 
cum. is an excellent form, with slightly larger blo-oms, which 
are borne on stout stems, these being nearly always twin- 
flowered. Both varieties earn be left for years, in the same 
position, and should be left undisturbed if possible. 
Plants in Frames.—-Those which are being wintered in pots 
or boxes should now have all the air possible admitted on all 
favourable occasions, and if the surface soil is stirred occasion¬ 
ally and kept free from weeds it will help to promote a free, 
sturdy growth. It will be well to look carefully through the 
borders, as many plants are now sending up young growths, 
and protect any which are liable to be injured by late frosts, 
which seriously disfigure the foliage in some cases. A little 
spent Mushroom-bed material will answer well for the purpose. 
A, E. Thatcher. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. 
Hardy Fruit. 
Grafting is a means of renovating a worthless fruit into one 
of profit, though many gardeners condemn the practice, aver¬ 
ring that it is far better to grub out the trees and plant afresh; 
but having done a good bit in this way, as well as witnessed 
the same in the orchards, of several tenant farmers on this 
estate, I am highly pleased with the result. But this must be 
borne in mind, that nothing but clean, healthy trees free from 
the least trace of canker be operated on. There are several 
methods in which grafting may be carried out; the most general 
in the west being saddle grafting; in the case of young trees 
it is very simple and equally successful. The top of the stock 
is cut wedge-shape, and the scion or graft cleft up, the centre 
far enough to be placed astride the wedge-cut stock, care being 
taken that one of the sides meet bark to bark, and this is the 
one important point in whatever mode of grafting is adopted. 
Whip 1 or tongue grafting is largely practised, especially in 
nurseries, and is an easy method when stock and scion are of 
an even size. A slip of wood and bark is removed at the top of 
the stock, making a veiy clean cut,, so> that the scion can fit 
exactly into it, making a, sloping cut, in the latter corresponding 
with the stock, and a slit made to fit into' the cleft, in the stock, 
which better keeps the scion in place. Crown or cleft grafting 
is that usually practised onl large branches, and is done by 
cleaving the top of the stock 2 in. to 4 in. long and cutting 
the scion wedge-shape; that is, a, little wood and bark on either 
side and inserting it, whilei the knife or chisel holds the cleft 
openj two scions, one on each side of large stocks, - can be put 
on, keeping bark to, bark as aforesaid. In the selection of 
grafts, which, for preference, should be of last year’s growth 
and well ripened, taken, from healthy trees some time since, and 
laid in on a cool border to retard growth, they should not 
exceed 7 in. in length, and so long as there are three or four 
buds much shorter pieces may be used, when the variety is 
scarce, and it is considered that stock and scion unite quicker 
if a, bud is retained a.t the base of the latter. Clean, smooth 
cuts are essential when preparing the graft, and as soon as 
adjusted, the whole is bound closely, but not too tightly, with 
broad strands of raffia, or matting, after making quite sure that 
the inner barks coincide, when, all will he ready for the clay 
which is to keep all moist and. air-tight, consequently must he 
free from grit or stones! and smoothed over evenly with the 
hand until it is conical in, shape, examining them occasionally 
in case the clay has cracked, which would admit air, and thus 
prevent any union. Grafting wax, all ready in tins, can be 
purchased from the nurserymen, and is used to-day by many 
in preference to clay. 
The Mulberry.—Although we find many an aged tree in 
most gardens, it is seldom on© sees a, new plantation of them, 
but it is certainly a, fruit deserving more attention than it 
receives at the hands of the planter. Almost any ordinary 
garden soil (except clay) suits this tree, which is best, cultivated 
a,s a standard, and, being the latest; fruit, to expand its foliage, 
there is yet, time to plant, giving it a, somewhat sheltered posi¬ 
tion, a® the wood is very brittle and soon snapped off by the 
wind. A specimen here and there on the lawn would not 
appear out of place; in fact, it; is generally in. this position one 
meets with it, its fine glossy green foliage being much admired. 
Old trees seldom, require much pruning, yet it is as well to 
look over them every few years,, removing any eras® branches 
or sappy young growth emerging from the centre, cutting clean 
