238 
THE GARDENING WORLD . 
March 19, 1904. 
well furnished with foliage. This may result in fresh leaves 
or flowers, or both. 
The heat, imparted to the soil by the fire would have been 
dissipated long before it. could have influenced the growth 
of the trees. ' Grass would grow quickly and strongly on. 
the ashes of a fire by reason of the potash and other mineral 
food at the disposal of the roots.— Ed.] 
The Proposed National Gardeners’ Association. 
To the Editor of The Gardening World. 
Sir,—I have waited patiently in the hope that some one of 
your many able contributors would take up the; above subject, 
Is it possible that an army of 10,000 men cannot muster suffi¬ 
cient. brains, business acumen, and pluck to formulate; and 
finance some scheme that shall more fully represent the average 
gardener than does the existing costly ones, all of which re¬ 
present the gardener only in name? 
For the sake of our common cause do not kill the proposed 
scheme by indifference, or waste your talent as a scribe by 
hurling disagreeable adjectives; at the heads of those who are 
striving honestly to make a way to better things. It is said 
that “ Fools rush in where angels fear to tread”; this may 
be true, but my experience is that the angels have seldom any 
objection to use the path that the sorealled fools have; rushed 
in to make pleasant for them to tread. 
Some; object to anything that savours of trade unionism. 
Well, call it something else ; say the “ British Gardeners’ Asso¬ 
ciation,” or “ The; Guild of Blue Aprons,” or any other fanciful 
name you like'. Only make a start with some scheme that 
shall meet the present want, and state clearly what the average 
gardener may expect to gain by becoming a member. 
If we gardeners, cannot start a new society, then; let us do 
the next best thing; that is, take up the) cause, of someone of 
the already established gardeners’ institutions that are sending 
round the “ hat,” and, if necessary, remodel it To meet the 
present-day requirements, and then use every legitimate means 
to place it on a sound financial footing. 
We gardeners might learn a lesson from the oo-operative 
society that from a tiny seedling lias: by dint, of perseverance 
and good management grown into a giant tree with many 
healthy branches, and what men have done that men can do. 
The only thing we have to fear is apathy, the curse of any 
undertaking, and as fatal to the life of a. society as is the 
dreaded sleeping disease to the Tomato. Ini conclusion, I 
would ask, nay beg, every genuine “ blue apron ” who wishesi 
for a better state of things to wake up and at least help to 
keep the ball rolling towards the; goal. The old motto will 
serve* for my tailpiece: “ Work on, hope on, and be ye surei 
self-help is noble schooling.” C 1 . S. Ritchie. 
Bournemouth. 
Tabic Plants. 
The; most of these emanate from the stove. They occupy 
such a prominent parti of the house, viewed and judged from 
all sides, that young gardeners should bestow a little extra 
care. and. attention on these subjects. In Pandanus Veitchii we 
have an ideal plant for this work, that is, if properly coloured 
leaves are to be got. I would deviate from the usual method 
of propagating this, which isi generally in a close and warm 
case in the stove. Firstly, obtain good-coloured offsets; or 
suckers; insert these in thumb-pots of sand, and place on a 
shelf in the stove. You will find that the general routine of 
the stove will afford sufficient moisture for the suckers till 
rooted. These may he potted on ini a, sandy compost, keeping 
the plants well elevated to combat against damp ; 5-|-in. pots; 
are large enough for table plants, confining some to small pots 
to correspond with your centre plant. 
Pandanadsi revel in abundance of water in summer, but in 
being almost dry at the root, and overhead in winter. To 
propagate Pandanus in a close; and humid atmosphere you 
will soon find out. that, the' leaves' asfeume a. green appearance, 
and the cultivator will have difficulty to recover the much 
desired white and green-striped leaves. The plants become 
too large for table work before the colour is obtained. In 
table plants always endeavour to procure; good-coloured cut¬ 
tings toi start with, a.s; plants soon pass the stage for dinner- 
table; work. Crotons are ivell adapted for this work. 
•Single-stem varieties should have preference to the bushy 
habit. The process of mossing is veiy effective and by far the 
quickest method of increase, which has to' be carried out. in 
most gardens. It consists of choosing good shoots and cutting 
below a joint in an upward direction, inserting a small piece 
of wood to keep this; open. Wrap round with sphagnum moss 
and sand, and apply a stake if necessary. Potting may be 
done in a. week or two 1 . Dracaenas may be included for table 
work, old stems cut in lengths being best. A light material 
is best for potting and loosely potted. 
The finest and delicate varieties of Crotons and Dracaenas 
are often requisite for housework, siO' it will benefit to have 
them thoroughly rootbound to; endure the change so detri¬ 
mental to fine-folia,ged plants. I think that deep potting of 
variegated plants is veiy incentive to the original greenness 
or colour. Keep your plants neatly staked and scrupulously 
clean. Young Palms which are so much raised from seed make 
ai nice change on a table, such as Kentias and the popular 
Cocos weddeliaua. The miniature Caladium argyrites is veiy 
attractive and quite a rarity nowadays. The innumerable 
colours of Coleus, so' easily cultured in summer, can be grown 
in all sizes to suit, the most fastidious. It is of no use unless 
we have; variety for 1 effect, coupled with economic elements. 
A. V. M. 
Grafting Orchard Trees. 
Wei often find in our orchards old trees that bear indifferent 
fruit; also unhealthy trees which might by grafting and a 
little attention be transformed into young, healthy, produc¬ 
tive trees of superior varieties. 
The best, time for this work is the latter part of March to 
the; beginning of April, which varies according to ; the season 
and locality. 
The period for grafting is; better deferred till the circulation 
be brisk, and the buds of the stock begin, to break. 
Grafts or scions should be collected any time in January or 
the beginning of February, and laid in a, situation where they 
will not be exposed to frost or much sunshine unt.il they are 
used, when the stock would have the advantage of the graft, 
in forwardness of vegetation. * 
Cleft or crown grafting is the best method for those who by 
this plan renovate old trees, or who-, for fancy and amusement, 
engraft many different varieties* on the same tree. 
If it he intended to renovate a, tree, all the branches should 
be headed down and grafted. They should not he all cut to 
equal lengths in a, crowded manner, hut to different ones at 
various heights in order that they have more room. 
In grafting branches less than 2 in. in diameter, cleft graft¬ 
ing should be preferred. Two, three, or four grafts .should 
be put on each branch, according to its size, so that if two or 
•three fail the taking of one may be ensured, which is generally 
sufficient to leave, unless it, be thought expedient to. leave 
two on the larger branches. 
When, the graft is prepared, which should have but, three or 
four buds, introduce it to the prepared stock, bind up well 
but not too tightly, and cover the wounds with wax or grafting 
clay ; if the latter, bring it over the toil* of the stock, keeping 
clear of the graft’s buds. 
Grafting clay should be prepared with some good stiff clay, 
a little bracken, horse-dung, and a. little cut hay, which will 
help it to hold together better. These should be well stirred 
together in the manner of making mortar. J. G. 
Chionocloxa Luoiliae sardensis is now the glory of the hardy 
flower garden, where care has been taken to plant it in quan¬ 
tity in the previous autumn. 
