326 
THE GARDENING WORLD, 
April 16, 1904, 
Clerodendrcm inyrinecophilum. 
The orange-red corolla and prominent stamens are the most 
striking features of this new store plant. Another very im¬ 
portant feature about it isi that the stems are short, erect and 
terminate in, a large thyrsie of flowers. The leaves are oblong, 
with, a heart-shaped base. Unlike thei better-known climbersl 
of the genus, the plant under notice can be grown well in, 
6-in. pots. First-class Certificate to Messrs. F. Sander and 
Sons, St. Albans. 
Primula ohconica. 
Some fine varieties of this were shown, one of which had 
rich, rosy-carmine flower's, and another had fringed white 
flowers. The species is gradually being greatly improved. 
Award of Merit for the strain to Mr. George Schneider, 17, 
Ifield 1 Road, Fulham, London. 
Clivia Lord Bathurst. 
The flowers of this new variety are characterised by their! 
broad, rounded segments of a rich orange-red colour, passing 
into creamy-white at the base, and borne in large, compact 
trusses. Award of Merit' to Lady Bathurst (gardener, Mr. T. 
Arnold), Cirencester House, Cirencester. 
Lawns from Grass Seeds. 
If the lawn is to - be a success! there should be good natural 
or artificial drainage. When the latter is necessary, use 2-in. 
and 3-ins. pipes, the larger size for the main, drain. Branch 
drains may ha 16 ft. apart, and 2|- ft. to: 3J ft. in depth, 
according to the nature: of the soil. Place! a, thin layer of 
Heath or similar material on the pipe®, followed by 12, in. of 
soil, making it firm by treading or ramming, then fill in the 
rest, using the rammer or hose to> consolidate it to within 
12 in. of the surface. 
If the soil is poor give a liberal dressing of well-rotted stable 
manure, and dig it all over to the depth of the spade. While 
doing so, cart or wheel some of the richer soil to: the poorer, 
places and vice versa, mixing, them together to secure an equal 
quality all over the lawn; this should be finished early in the 
season, thus allowing it to solidify before sowing. As soon: as 
the ground is dry, rake and roll it alternately, levelling up the 
holes and picking off all rubbish, roots and stones. The weed 
seeds having germinated, repeat the operation until the: soil is 
firm below wit-h a fine friable surface. 
Even where good turf can be obtained a, much better lawn 
is produced by sowing grass'-seied. Good mixtures of these 
can now bei bought, to suit almost any .soil or situation. For 
shaded lawns a good proportion of Poa trivalis: and P. nemora- 
lis should be used. When visiting some of the London parks 
last season, I was: struck by the fact that the bright green turf 
was almost entirely composed of the ‘common grass weed of 
garden®, Poa, annua. Those living in smoky districts might 
give it a trial. 
“ •% 
April is the- heist month for sowing; the soil must be neither 
dry nor wet, and not at all sticky. Stretch a, line across the 
ground at intervals of 4 yards, dribbling a little white sand 
along it each time the line is placed in position,. Other lines 
can be made in the same way at right angles, with the result 
that the area is divided into: 'square® 4 yards each way. T'o: 
sow one of these, about 18 oiz. of seed will be required. Sow 
very evenly, keeping the hand low, weighing or measuring the 
quantity for each square, thus ensuring equal distribution. 
The seed can, be covered by raking it in with a, wooden 
rake, but we prefer to cover it. with sifted soil to a depth of 
one-sixth of an inch, about three: packages being required to: 
cover a square of 16 yards. When it is covered in this way 
birds are: less troublesome. After covering the seeds, with the 
soil pass the roller over it from north to: -south and from east 
to, west. Mix a quantity of grass-seed and soil together and 
fill up any hole® caused by the feet of the workmen, etc. 
If the weather is favourable, the seedlings will show at the 
end of three weeks: or less. Remove any weeds that appear, 
and a,a soon as the: grass is about 1 in. in height sow some 
sifted leaf-mould over it; this will help tot retain moisture in 
the soil. The first cutting should be done with a sharp scythe, 
and if the weather continues dry another sowing of sifted leaf- 
mould or coeoianut, fibrei will be found beneficial, or the mowing 
machine with the collecting box removed may be used and the 
cut grass will have the same effect. J. C. 
Ampelopsis Vcitchii and Polygonum 
baldschuanicum. 
The former is undoubtedly by far the better known of these 
two beautiful hardy climbers, and its propagation is also much 
better understood by the majority. The latter is a plant which 
lias lately gained a large amount, of favour as a useful plant 
for covering large arches', and is also'seen to good advantage 
rambling in graceful profusion over a dead tree, say one 
about 15 ft,, high. It does not produce the lovely tints of the 
Amp-elopsi® in autumn, but it scores all the same with its 
delicate raceme® of creamy-pink flowers, which remain in 
evidence for a long period even after fertilisation. Thisi Poly¬ 
gonum has long had a reputation for being difficult to propa¬ 
gate, which seems to cany with it a certain amount of fas¬ 
cination for many growers. I have seen it grown very success¬ 
fully from cuttings of the old wood put in a frame about 
October. These callus during winter, and in the spring roots 
are -emitted. 
The best plan, however, is to take: cuttings at present of 
last year’s wood, not tire -extreme ends, as these are often dry 
and withered; out them into- lengths with two joints; put 
them into pot®, leaving one joint exposed. Stand the potsi 
ino-t a warm greenhouse for -a few weeks, and as soon as the 
buds begin to: push into growth shift them into a house where 
they can have -a, mild bottom -heat, and here they will root 
readily. 
The same treatment applies to Ampelopsis Veitchii, and 
cuttings of the old wood of this have the great advantage of 
producing plants with a sturdy base, where cuttings of the 
young wood are liable' to produce' plants -with a weak, spindly 
base, and are liable to be killed by frost or other cause®. 
Once rooted, the. after-treatment of Polygonum baldschuani¬ 
cum is: similar to that, required by the Ampelopsis. 
J. W. M. 
Shirley Poppies. 
I do, not think that these lovely annuals receive such atten¬ 
tion a,s their merits deserve, as they are generally sown too- 
thickly, and left pretty much to take care of themselves with¬ 
out being sufficiently thinned or attended to. The following 
method will amply repay anyone for the slight trouble entailed. 
A piece of ground not more than 6 ft. wide: should be chosen, 
as it will be: found more convenient for thinning, -etc., and also 
for cutting the flowers, than if it were Avider. The ground at 
disposal will determine what length it should be. 
Dig a. good dressing of rich dung into it,, and let, it settle 
for a, clay or two. Choose a, fine day when the soil Avorks easily 
for sowing the seeds. 
Rake over the: surface:, and scatter the seeds thinly broadcast - 
over the plot, and rakei them in lightly. If there should be 
any bare patches in the bed, when the seedlings are large 
enough to, handle, make them up by moving a few tiny patches 
from where the plants are thickest. As soon as the plot is 
regularly green, stretch two lines across it 8 in. apart and 
parallel to each other. 
Take a Dutch hoe, and hoe up all .between, the lines-, leaving 
only those plants which are close to the lines. Repeat the 
operation until the whole plot is treated. The plot will then 
consist of thin lines of seedlings 8 in. apart, with, the hoed-up 
ones lying between. 
In, about a, week or ten days stretch lines again 8 in. apart 
across the bed, this time at right angles to the lines 1 of seed¬ 
lings left by the, previous operation. 
