THE GARDENING WORLD 
335 
April 23, 1904. 
The Stove and Greenhouse. 
Roses. —.Both the hybrid perpetual® and teas are invaluable 
for the greenhouse or conservatory, affording as they do quanti¬ 
ties of fragrant blossoms long before they can be had in the 
open. Plants of the* climbing Tea®, established in borders for 
training up rafters or under the roof-glass, require but little 
attention at this time beyond top-dressing the border or other 
receptacle in which they are planted, and regulating the 
growths. Established plants, whether in pots or borders*, 
should be well fed with liquid manure or other approved stimu¬ 
lants from the time growth becomes active until they go out 
of flower. Roses in pots that have been recently purchased 
should be repotted on arrival, or as soon after as possible, into 
a sweet maiden soil. A compost I have always found to do 
them well consists of two-thirds friable loam and the remaining 
third made up of the following, viz., spent Mushroom-bed, or 
other decomposed manure, wood ashes*, mortar rubble, and a 
sprinkling of sand, soot, bone-meal and some artificial fer¬ 
tiliser. Good drainage is*, of course, an important phase ini 
successful culture*, as is careful watering for a few weeks after 
potting. It is well known how susceptible Ro*ses grown, under 
glass* are to attacks of green aphis, red spider, and the dreaded 
mildew. For the two first-named depredators frequent fumiga¬ 
tions will keep them in check, whilst for mildew nothing sur¬ 
passes dusting the foliage with flowers of sulphur before they 
become bad. It is the greatest mistake* possible to allow 
insect pests to* become numerous* before adopting measures for 
their extirpation. The old adage : “ Prevention, is better than 
cure,” applies here with strong force. Hybrid perpetuals that 
have already flowered should be gradually hardened and placed 
in the open for planting o*ut in November, unless the same 
batch o*f plants has to do service again next year, when new 
growth should be perfected under glass, afterwards plunging 
them in a sunny spot to ripen the wood. 
Chrysanthemums. - The plants intended for producing 
large blooms should by now be in 6-in. pots, and a neat stake 
placed to each. I do not favour setting out the plants in the* 
open until the first o*r second week in May, for high winds and 
heavy rains are of frequent occurrence until that time, and 
much damage would be done to the tender shoots and foliage. 
The frame-lights should, however, be lifted off entirely in, fine 
weather, and a brick placed at each comer under the frame, 
thus allowing a continual current of air to pass* through the* 
plants. If necessary, a second brick may be placed to raise 
them still higher as the* plants grow. Syringe twice daily, viz., 
early morning and late afternoon or evening. For providing 
quantities of medium-sized flowers the bush system of culture 
is best, and cuttings may still be inserted. When rooted, pot 
ofE into* 3|~in. pots and grow on in, frames, shifting them into* 
6-in., and finally into 10-in. pots as they require it. Where 
large numbers are* grown, the rooted cuttings may be bedded 
out in frames or boxes, and when the weather allows, transplant 
into fairly rich soil in the open for lifting in late autumn. 
These wall give as good results as when pot-culture is adopted. 
The planks* are* lifted with good balls of earth and placed in, 
houses or pits, merely covering the* roots with ordinary garden 
soil. As the shoots attain 3 in. or 4 in. pinch out the point to 
induce bushy habit. Keep a, sharp* lookout for black aphis 
and dust affected parts with tobacco-powder in the evening 
when, the foliage is wet, syringing it off with force early next 
moraine. 
© 
Pits and Frames.—In most gardens these structure's are* 
now full of plants that are being hardened preparatory to dis*- 
posing in beds and borders next month. The occupant's* re¬ 
quire a good deal of attention for a few weeks in the way c*f 
affording sufficient water, shifting from a warm pit or frame 
to those that are kept cooler, and finally transferring to 
skeleton frames o*r in sheltered positions in the open. 
Too often these structures receive but scant attention com¬ 
pared -with others that contain, perhaps, choicer plants* ; but 
I can safely say that one requires a,s much attention to* details 
as the other. As the frames and pits are emptied, cleanse the 
woodwork and glass in readiness for such plants as Cinerarias, 
Primulas, Zonal Pelargoniums, Euphorbias, and a host o*f 
similar plants* that will be grown in them during the summer 
months. 
Among the Orchids. 
General Remarks. —With the* milder conditions prevailing 
outside* and the* lengthening days, the temperatures in, the 
various divisions of the Orchid houses may now be gradually 
raised, so that the maximum temperature may be reached by 
the middle o*r end of May. To obtain, the higher degrees of 
temperature it is not necessary to resort to the heating 
apparatus at all times to obtain this desirable end. In, fact, 
one’s chief aim should be to obtain the higher temperatures 
with as little artificial heat as* possible. In bright weather and 
favourable outside* conditions a, great deal may be done towards 
decreasing the use of artificial heat by those in charge of glass¬ 
houses, using proper discretion, in closing the houses sufficiently 
early in the day, so that with the proper use of the sun’s rays 
a high temp era, time is obtainable that will dispense with the 
fire-heat until late in the evening, when the outside conditions 
do not, as a rule, thus early in the season, enable the fires to* 
be dispensed with altogether, even in, the cool divisions. 
With the increasing temperatures* a corresponding addition 
of moisture is required in the atmosphere. This is only 
obtainable by more frequent damping of the floors and staging 
and a more liberal use of the syringe. This is especially de¬ 
sirable when closing the ventilators or what is* termed shutting 
up in the afternoon. If the higher temperature obtained by 
this operation be not accompanied with the proper degree of 
humidity, not alone will the plants suffer, but the* diy condi¬ 
tions will have a tendency to* aid the more rapid increase of 
insect, pests*. The* two combined evils are the least desirable 
in any class of plant cultivation, and must be avoided if satis¬ 
factory results are to be hoped for. Excessive* damping is 
even, less desirable than the diy conditions. Too much mois¬ 
ture in the atmosphere and the compo*st used in the potting 
material being saturated, together with a low or even a fluc¬ 
tuating temperature, cause the* damping off of new growths* 
and the unsightly dis*figurement, known as* black spot, on the 
foliage. It is apparent, therefore, that some discretion at, 
least is necessary in the provision of the* atmospheric condi¬ 
tions that are required for the successful cultivation of the 
various section of Orchids*, I have* always endeavoured to* work 
on the rule of damping or syringing sufficiently early in the 
day. so* that the moisture may to a, great extent become dis¬ 
tilled before the cooler evening temperatures are reached. 
There is nothing, I am, certain*, more injurious* to* the* ter¬ 
restrial Orchids' than excessive moisture, either at the* roots or 
in the atmosphere, during the prevalence of low temperatures*. 
Cypripediums, Plutius, Calantlies and other allied genera suffer 
in this respect, perhaps, to a greater extent than, do the 
Epiphytic kinds, and therefore, with so- much young growth 
developing, it is well to be* on one’s guard to prevent 
irreparable in jury by using common-sense discret ion, which may 
be* of the greatest, possible* benefit to* the plant®, and by the 
use of which alone can, we hope to procure satisfactory and 
desirable* results* in the cultivation of plants. H. J. 
Fruit Under Glass. 
Early Grapes that have passed their stoning period shou’d 
have a good watering of liquid manure warnrted to about 80 
deg. and a mulch of fresh horse-droppings* or strawy cow-- 
manurei, if at hand. The, buhehes should have a final look 
over, removing any seedless berries or any too lightly wedged 
in,, and the strongest laterals pinched back, but given a little- 
more extension as colouring commences, with extra ventilation, 
but guarding against, cutting winds*, especially when air is 
admitted from the front ventilators. Should red spider or 
thrips* appear on the foliage, sponge with warm soapy water, 
