April 23, 1904. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
341 
Leeks, and Celery should be subject to the same arrange¬ 
ment. 
To begin with the early crops, they ought to have the best 
and driest soil, a® well as the most sheltered position in the 
garden, which is generally on a south 'border. Here may be 
grown Peas, Broad Beans', early Potatosi, Short Horn Carrots, 
and a few Turnips, Spinach, Lettuce, and Radishes. A piece 
of ground on this border should be reserved for the earliest 
Cauliflowers from frames, and later on for a crop of dwarf 
Beans. The crops above mientioned will come off in time for 
a late crop of Kidney Beans, Endive', and Lettuces, or any crop 
of short duration. 
Coming to the main, crops, for instance, Peas, which arei an 
important crop on account of the great demand for them while 
in season, will do> well on ground previously occupied 
by Celery, or even where Parsnips and Carrots have grown. 
Parsnips, Carrots, and other tap-root crops may succeed 
Potatos, while the latter can take the space the former occu¬ 
pied ; but the plot for Onions should be well manured in 
autumn, and laid up rough or in ridges', broken down early in 
March, and allowed to get well pulverised and diy before 
sowing. Firm soil suits Onions well. 
The space occupied by Brussels Sprouts, Broccoli, and spring 
Greens will come in for [the whole crop of Celery, Leeks, and 
late Peas, Beans, and Spinach, a,si this soil has carried a rather 
exhausting crop, and lain so long unmoved ; extra, manure and 
labour will be necessary to restore: it to its former state. 
Runner Beunsi require mulching in dry ■weather and frequent 
waterings. The space for the main summer crops being pro- 
vided for, a very important consideration is those that are 
to stand the winter and afford a, supply for several months. 
The first of these are Brussels Sprouts. As they should be 1 
planted early, there will be no time to take a crop previously. 
A plot of sufficient size should be selected, not only on which 
to grow this crop, but most of the late Broccoli also. By this 
arrangement a large plot of ground will fall vacant about the 
same time for summer use the following year. 
Savoys, Rosette Colewort, Sprouting Broccoli, and winter 
Greens, of sorts follow early summer crops as they come off, such 
as where Spinach, Broad Beans, Peas, and Potato® have grown. 
Foi Lettuce and small salading there will always be ground at 
command. Marrows will do well on a. mixture of garden rub¬ 
bish and manure. Tomato® will occupy a suitable position, on 
the garden wall. ,j \\r j 
The Art of Pruning Roses. 
I think that veiy considerable art may be displayed in the 
pruning of Roses, and this more particularly applies to the 
climbing varieties. These', if planted in, November last, may 
now be pruned, and the' way it should be done is in this wise : 
If it is, desired to cover a wall from the foot or base, then the 
shoots should be cut down from 6 in. to 12 im from the ground, 
according toi strength of shook, the strongest being left longest. 
By such treatment shoots will spring out direct, from the foot 
of the wall and cover it; these should be carefully tied in, and 
when ripe or green, their tips should be removed. By doing 
this, side-shoots or laterals push out, and these, when green and 
ripe, shuld be cut back two toi four buds. It is from these' the 
best flowers will bei obtained. If there is a, blank in the wall 
it is best to cut a shoot back to two' buds, so> as to induce it toi 
send out a strong shoot for filling up the space. Roses planted 
during March are best pruned in the middle of April, as by 
that time their roots are more active. They should receive 
waterings of weak liquid manure once a week. Hybrid per¬ 
petual®, if not pruned yet, should be cut back t,o from three 
to six buds, according to the strength of the shoot. Tea 
Roses should be pruned but sparingly, Rosa, rugosa, not at 
all, and monthly Roses only have their tips removed. Of 
course, in all cases, all rotten wood and weak shoots should be 
entirely removed, and the ground should be well tramped round 
the plants and be top-dressed with some good loam mixed with 
a fertiliser. Walter Smyth. 
Faunmore, Holy wood, co. Down. 
Eremuri 
are, without a doubt, the most stately and imposing flowers 
of early summer. About a dozen species and varieties are in 
cultivation, but owing to, the length of time necessary for plants 
to attain flowering size, which makes their acquisition rather 
expensive, and the comparative rarity of some species, there 
are but two or three at all generally known. These are E. 
himalaicus, E. robustus, and E. Elwesii. From five to eight or 
nine years, according to' the cultivation given them, are ne¬ 
cessary to produce plants strong enough to flower from seed. 
The best way, therefore, unless one is blessed with more than, 
the patience of Job, is to obtain strong plants from a nursery¬ 
man. 
Strong, well-drained loam is the best soil in which to grow 
the Eremurus. Early autumn is the best time to plant, as, 
growth commences very early in the ^spring. The crowns 
should be covered with 3 in. of soil, and the position be shel¬ 
tered from keen, cutting winds. It, isi also advisable to afford 
a, light protection to the growing crown from spring frosts, 
which are liable toi damage the foliage and flower-spike. 
Eremuri are quite hardy, even in Scotland. The impression 
that protection, is necessary, other than that advised above, has 
probably gained ground through the liability to damp off in 
wet soil. Given a- well-drained position these fine plants will 
survive our ordinary winters. Those enumerated and de¬ 
scribed below have been grown in this country for a number 
of years', and may be relied upon to do well under the cultiva¬ 
tion recommended. 
E. Aitchisoni is probably the least well-known, of those under 
notice. It was introduced some years ago from Afghanistan, 
tut is more grown on the Continent than in. this country. 
The inflorescence isi striking, oni account of the colour of the 
flowers', which is a pretty pink or pale red. Though n,ot, a, 
robust grower, the spakesi attain a height of 4 ft., and are at 
their best about the end of June. 
E. Bungei is a most beautiful and quite distinct species, with 
bright citron-yellow flowers on a spikei, 3 ft. in height. Coming 
into' flower quite a month later than the Himalayan species, E. 
Bungei is valuable as extending the flowering period of the 
genus, and is marked by very pretty foliage, which is narrow, 
glaucous 1 , and reminds one of a vigorous Asphodel. 
E. Elwesii, considered by some a variety of E. robustus, is 
nevertheless, quite distinct from that species', and well-grown 
specimens will throw up' spikes exceeding- even the 9 ft. or 10 ft. 
which is often attained by the last-named. Densely clothed 
along the upper 4 ft. or 5 ft. with the lovely pink flowers, 
which alone would mark E. Elwesii as distinct, this is one of 
the finest sights imaginable. In addition, this species comes 
into- flower rather earlier than E. robustus, under which it is 
usually catalogued as var. elwesianus. 
E. himalaicus, one of the later introductions from Northern 
India, (1881), lias become, through its strong constitution! and 
free-flowering character, the best-known of the genus. Although 
not so 1 imposing as E. Elwesii, since it rarely exceeds 6 ft. or 
7 ft., the white starry flowers, which clothe the upper half of 
the spike are of a very pure tint, making this a very desirable 
and effective object. 
E. Olgae was, introduced from Turkestan, during the same 
year as the last-named, but isi yet very rare. In growth this 
species resembles E. Bungei, hut is more robust, the spikes 
reaching a. height of 4 ft. One objection is the rather un¬ 
pleasant odour which emanates from the whole plant. Still, 
with its large white flowers and glaucous foliage, E. Olgae 
forms a beautiful picture. 
E. robustus has been ini cultivation for thirty years, and yet 
is far from being well known. The lovely peach-coloured 
blossoms are produced in, profusion upon a stately spike. 
El spectabilis was the first to be introduced, being brought 
from Siberia, more than 100 year's ago. It is a, dwarf grower, 
rarely exceeding 2 ft. or 3 ft. ; the flowers are pale sulphur, 
with orangei-coloured anthers. 
E. turkestanicus and the 1 last-named are the Mist valuable 
members of this fine genus. Introduced from Turkestan in 
1881, this has reddish-brown flowers of an undecided shade. 
