356 
THE HARDENING WORLD, 
April 30. 1904. 
Hardy Fruit. 
The Peach Wall. — At the time of penning these lines there 
is every prospect of a, good $ef of fruit, but it isi too early tot 
speak of a, full crop as yet, although the weather hast been 
most genial while the freest havei been in flower. The f'etw 
mild days have also favoured growth, which means that dis¬ 
budding—that is, the removal of surplus shoots—must now 
be undertaken; but as it is a, most important, operation a 
thoroughly practical hand should be deputed for 1 the work, as 
if done in a. haphazard way it may spell ruin to the crop, like¬ 
wise affect the future welfare of the treie for file next year or 
two. Doubtless the besttrsha.ped fan-trained trees are 
those whose shoots radiate right and left froten the centre asi 
one stands facing the tree, and retaining those shoots that 
emanate from the upper side of the wood made last season, 
in, preference to those on the under side, except in extreme 
cases, and a, shoot is required to add symmetry to the tree. 
The removal of this surplus growth must be piecemeal and 
extended over two or three weeks 1 , commencing with the more 
robust trees first, retaining the basal shoot as, well as: the 
terminal one, and in some instances another midway if it is 
considered there, is space enough for it: to be trained in, and not 
prove detrimental to the proper ripening of the other shoots. 
Overcrowding naturally favours badly-ripened wood, and 
though fruit buds may appear next spring, the flowers fall to 
pass through thei fertilising period with safety; either thei 
stamen or pistil, or it, may be both, are imperfect, with the 
result the flowers, drop 1 , causing many to, wonder why this 
should be; and the answer is unripeared wood in, most instances:. 
Although the Peach and Nectarine bear chiefly upon wood 
laid in its full length, fruiting spurs 1 may be: formed by pinching 
shoots: a, little later on. where space allows:, and in some cases 
these spur's form naturally without, pinching being practised 
at all, forming short, or stubbly growths. Keep a keen lookout 
for aphis,, dusting with tobacco powder, which, if not eradicat¬ 
ing the enemy, will keep, it, in check until more drastic 
measures can be undertaken. 
Forced Strawberries. —These may now be: planted cut, and 
should the variety be Royal Sovereign 2 ft. 6 in. each way 
will not be: too much,: 2 ft. we find a suitable distance for 
other varieties. If the plants have been well attended to as 
regards: root waterings, as: formerly advised, there will be no 
necessity to soak them in a tub, of water, but if red spider has 
gained a, footing on the foliage, dip, them in water after 
making a, lather of soft, soap with a, mixture of flowers of .sul¬ 
phur. Remove thei crocks: without breaking too, many of the 
roots, making a hole with the spade, and plant 2 in. below the 
surface level, allowing a basin around each plant, as a water¬ 
ing should Ire given if the soil is on the, dry side to settle the 
same around the roots:, first treading 1 the plants firmly in with 
the feet. 
Raspberries, being surface-rooting subjects, throw up a, 
host, of suckers same distance from the, mother plant; these: 
should be cut off with the flat hoe, as well as any weeds that: 
may be pushing through tire: soil, and where young shoots are 
too crowded between, the old canes they should either be 
cut or pulled out, thus giving the canes necessary for next 
year’s fruiting a better chance to develop. 
Apricots. Now genial weather is with us the protection 
may soon, he removed and the trees gone over, rubbing off 
surplus fruit where a, good set has been secured, retaining 
the larger* and best situated for ripening. Apricots repay for 
disbudding, as they are pronla to show many more shoots than 
is required to form either spurs or Avood to train in for next, 
year’s bearing. Those springing from the front of the, branches 
may be dispensed Avith as, soon as long enough to handle, re¬ 
moving a few at. a, time so as not to cause a check to the tree: 
likewise any gross shoots: should he rubbed off, as it is seldom 
they form fruit buds if constantly pinched during early 
summer. Those retained should be pinched at the fourth 
leaf, except those for laying in, at their full length. Keep a 
watch for the maggot later on, usually found in curled leaves. 
I mention this again a,s they are so destructive to this fruit. 
Bicton, Devonshire. Jambs Mayne. 
Among the Orchids. 
Oncidiums. — The Avide range of distribution and the dif¬ 
ferences: in regard to climatic and atmospheric conditions in 
Avliich the plants are found growing in a AA-ild state make it 
impossible to accommodate all thei popular Oncidiums in one 
house. Such specimens! as 0. jonesianum, 0. lanceanum, 0. 
Papilio, O. sarcodes:, and a few others can only be grown 
where the accommodation of a, stove or hothouse can be 
obtained ; here they may obtain a humid atmosphere, and the 
more: or less root moisture may he provided according to the 
growing conditions of the plants. A considerable number also 
require: intermediate house treatment, but the greater bulk of 
the: cultivated] species can, be grown, and in, fact are best 
accommodated in a cool house, with treatment, similar to the 
conditions: usually adopted for the cultivation of Odonloglos- 
sumsi. The larger and more robust-growing species are: best 
accommodated in. pots; the medium and dAvarf-giwing 
varieties! can be cultivated in baskets or shallow pans, in 
which they can be suspended from the roof. 
Blocks, of AVood are often recommended to which the plants 
are secured by wiring when first imported. In hot, dry 
Avea, ther this is not, an, advantageous method of culture; the 
copious amount of water then required to retain them in a 
plump, state necessitates constant attention. I have had 
many of the: plants grow successfully for years on the elongated 
stems of growing tree Ferns:. Such species: as 0. flexuoeum 
and its allies are particularly suitable for covering the Fern 
stems. 
The Leaf soil Culture. —If any one class, of plants: more than 
another have benefited by the adoption; of the use of decaying 
leaves in, the potting composts for Orchids, I consider the so- 
called Mexican, section of Oncidiums: may he mentioned as 
haarng the most apparent satisfactory results 1 . Such species 
as 0. marshallianum, 0. Forbesii, 0. crispum, and the allied 
genera and natural hybrids have lor years past been annually 
imported in, large quantities. These grew for a season or two 
and flowered satisfactorily; then they suddenly began to, de¬ 
cline, and in. a, short time, died out altogether. I have plants 
in. my charge at the: present time of thei above-mentioned kinds 
which had so far diminished in structure that, they were not, 
worth t,he pots they were in. 
These were turned out of their baskets two years ago and 
planted in a, compost of tAA'o-thirds decayed leaves; to one of 
Peats moss, and rough sand. If, was most remarkable the 
to st yeai advance, but thei second season they have so far 
recovered themseitoes, that they are at the present time emit- 
ting strong flower-scapes that are about, bursting their buds. 
The bottoms, of the pots, have Bracken, roots, in place of the 
usual broken pot drainage. The compost is made thin and 
the: surface lias a layer of chopped sphagnum moss. 
I ha\ e also: had imported plants to deal Avith since, and both 
last year and this: they leave nothing to be desired. One 
tiling* should be guarded against—that: is;, not, to permit the 
flower-scapes: to: remain too long on the plants after the blooms 
liaA’e become fully expanded ;■ there is nothing distresses these 
plants so much as permitting the pseudo-bulbs, to become 
unduly shrivelled from the strain of flowering. The flowers 1 
last almost, as long after cutting, if placed in Avafer in, the 
house in, Avliich they are grown, so if it, is desirable to obtain, 
the full benefit of their display there is 1 really no, necessity 
in distressing one s plants in, procuring it. H. J. 
