6 SO 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
August 27, 1904. 
Hardy Trees and Shrubs. 
Some Ornamental Vitis. —Among thei numerous hardy 
climbing plants there are none more beautiful than the Vines, 
and it is surprising that one doe® not see them more generally 
used in the several positions for which they are so well 
adapted. Being very quick growers that are of great value 
for covering pergolas, trellises, arbour's 1 and the like, and when 
rambling in a natural manner over such structures they are, 
perhaps, seep to the best advantage; but for covering walls 
and buildings they can; also be successfully employed. They 
will grow freely in almost any kind of soil, providing it isi well 
drained, so that the roots do not become water-logged, but a 
loam of medium texture is the most suitable. In autumn 
some of the varieties assume the most beautiful colours not 
excelled by any other foliage plants, and for these a rather 
poor soil isi the best, as the leave® then become more highly 
coloured. In, the shrubberies. Vines can, also be used with 
marked effect, and during the last few years we have found 
them, excellent for forming pillars in the same way as advised 
for Roses. Larch-poles or others of a durable nature are in¬ 
serted firmly into the ground with a, height of 8 ft. to 12 ft. 
above, and the stems are then tied loosely as they require it. 
In addition to forming beautiful pillar’s of colour, these can, 
by planting diseriminately, be made to make the appearance 
of the shrubbery much more interesting. To produce the best 
colour a sunny position should be chosen, wherever they are 
planted, and by so doing the berries become ripened, which 
form by no means the least- interesting part. 
The most beautiful Vine probably is, V. Coignetiae, which 
was introduced some few years ago from Japan, This has 
large leaves about 10 in. long, and as much across, deep green 
above, and with a pale yellow tomentum beneath. In autumn 
it assumes almost indescribable colours of orange, deep 1 crim¬ 
son, and red, and is worthy of inclusion where the best 
deciduous climbers are desired. V. Thunbergii somewhat re¬ 
sembles the above in general appearance, except that it; isi a 
stronger grower when well established, and the leaves take on 
very rich hues of crimson and scarlet. A very useful Vine for 
any of the above positions is V. vinifera purpurea, or the Olaret- 
leavad Grape, the leave® being a uniform, claret colour. It is 
not, such a rampant -grower as some, which in many cases is 
advantageous. V. vinifera apiifolia, has plea,singly divided 
foliage; hence the name; Parsley-leaved Vine, and the amber- 
coloured fruits are also ornamental. V. Labrusca, is also a very 
desirable form with, undivided foliage and purple fruits. V. 
lieterophylla variegate, is a charming plant and quite a, small 
grower. It has slender shoots, and the foliage is beautifully 
variegated with cream and pink, which make it a desirable 
plant for growing in. pots. It is also well suited for planting 
in the rock garden when allowed to ramble over large stones. 
The Vines are easily propagated by cutting the ripened 
shoots into lengths just, below the eye and inserting firmly in 
light soil in 60-sized pots.. These should be placed in. a warm 
propagating pit until rooted, and then gradually hardened to 
a cold frame. Pot into a larger size when, this becomes ne¬ 
cessary, and leave in the frame,for the winter. 
Ceauothus americanus. — During late autumn this forms 
one of the most beautiful flowering shrubs, and is also one 
of the hardiest of this family. It. has a bushy habit, and 
reaches- about- 4 ft. in height, and the flowers, which are creamy- 
white in colour, are produced in great profusion. Although 
this shrub- is said to succeed best when, given the protection 
■of & wall wei find it- perfectly hardy in this locality, and also 
excellent for bedding purposes where space will afford. 
The growths of creepers on walls, arcades; pergolas and the 
like will now need tying in, and any pruning necessary can 
he done. 
Now that the summer is advancing, we may expect gales at 
any time, and the stakes; and ties of trees should be carefully 
examined, and be certain that they ai-e perfectly safe, and any 
that show the least, sign of becoming rotten should be replaced 
by new ones. A. E. Thatcher. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. 
Fruit Under Glass. 
Figs. — Give abundance of ventilation continually to earliest 
forced trees, and syringe the foliage twice each day. Those in 
pots-may soon be placed outdoors in a, warn corner, but see 
that the wood is well ripened first, and those that have rooted 
into the bottom-heating material should have their roots cut 
by degrees before removing the pots from the bed. Plunge in 
ashes or tan and supply water when, required, and a syringe 
plied among the foliage after a hot day will tend to- keep it 
clear of insects-. Rub off any fruit® beyond the bud stage, as 
they impoverish the trees and are useless for next year’s crop. 
Houses containing trees with ripening fruit must be treated 
with care, for many fruit® will decay; therefore maintain a 
circulation of warm, dry air, giving full exposure to light, as 
a, Pig that has been coloured with the sun’s rays is of much 
better flavour- than those grown under shade. Do what ne¬ 
cessary watering and damping is required early in. the day, or 
moisture condensing on. the fruit, especially during dull or wet 
weather, is apt to set in decay. Make use of all the sun 
possible in unheated structures where a second crop of fruit 
isi on the- way by ventilating gradually from 8 a.m. up to 
10.30 or 11 a.m., syringing the trees early in the morning 
and again, soon after 2 p.m. at closing time. Ajlanurial water¬ 
ings should be frequently given to the borders containing the 
roots, and a little dispersed on the floors, etc., at closing time 
tends to keep down red spider. Ripe fruit, to be sent any 
distance, must be carefully packed, .Spinach leaves being as 
good as anything to wrap the fruit ini, and then surrounded 
with a little wood-wool or paper shavings and packed in shallow 
boxes one layer deep-. 
Pines from now onwards require careful handling, espe¬ 
cially those near the, ripening stage, which seldom need more 
water when, colouring begins, but up to- that, period they will 
take mammal waterings once or twice a week, according to 
external conditions-—the brighter the weather the sooner the 
soil in the pots dry up. Gradually discontinue the use of shad¬ 
ing material 'as the sun gets lessi powerful each day, but dis¬ 
tribute plenty of atmospheric moisture during bright weather 
amongst the plunging material as well as walls and paths. 
Plants that have filled their pots with loots may yet be shifted 
into 10-in. or 12-in. pots, a convenient size for fruiting most- 
varieties, using good fibrous loam, etc,, frequently advocated 
in these calendars. Let the plants be fairly moist before pot¬ 
ting, so' that water will be unnecessary for ten days or so, 
plunging the pots in a bottom heat of 75 deg. to 80 deg., keep¬ 
ing the tops within a few inches of the glass-roof, and 2 ft. 
apart, each way. Insert suckers, when large enough, into- 5-in, 
or 6-in. pots', and consign to the rubbish heap old stools not 
required for stock purposes, so that growing plants may have 
all available space. 
Peaches. — As the trees are relieved of their fruit, thin, out 
all useless wood, so that this season’s shoots get the- full benefit 
of light and air, and ply the syringe twice daily for the next- 
few weeks to cleanse the foliage of any insects lurking about, 
and wive the borders a thorough soaking of water, if approach¬ 
ing dryness. Late-ripening varieties, such as Sea Eagle, Wal- 
burtom Admirable, Late Devonian, Gladstone, and a. few others 
should be assisted with manorial waterings to swell up their 
fruit, and any leaves that- are shading the fruit pushed aside 
to add colour to the same. In the early-forced house, any 
trees' growing too strong to be- fruitful should be root-pruned 
