698 
THE GARDENING WORLD . 
September 3, 1904. 
Among the Orchids. 
Cochliodas. —There are few more attractive Orchids of 
miniature structure than the C'ochliodas, and where their re¬ 
quirements! are afforded there is very little difficulty in their 
successful cultivation. Of course, preference must be given 
to C. noetzliana as the premier species of the genus, and since 
the hybrid Odontioda appeared it has been very much in 
demand by hybridists for hybridisation purposes; and there 
can be no 1 doubt, judging from the remarkable characteristics 
displayed in the hybrid exhibited at the last Temple Show, 
there remains great possibilities for future developments in 
the possible crosses obtainable from its influences as one of 
the parents, and I am sure cannot fail to produce many more 
striking seedlings in the near future. Many of our Conti¬ 
nental growersi succeed in the satisfactory cultivation of this 
species by growing it in pots or shallow pans, using as a com¬ 
post finely-broken charcoal and fine silver-sand, with about 
an inch of chopped sphagnum on the surface of the compost. 
Where all efforts have failed, I would advise my readers to try 
some of the plants in this simple method of potting, giving 
similar cultural conditions as that afforded the 0dont-oglos- 
sums. 
We find no difficulty with them, and they do well in a 
mixture of one-third each of peat, leaf-soil and chopped sphag¬ 
num, adding a liberal amount of rough sand or broken, crocks. 
The plants emit their roots from the base of 'the newly- 
developing growth, just at the period when the new piseudo- 
bulb begins to form, which is usually about the middle of 
August to the third week in September. Any potting re- 
quirements that may be necessary are best done about the 
period above mentioned. The: compost and the surfacing 
moss should be pressed moderately firm about the base of the 
plant. Water with soft rain-water, wetting the compost 
through as, soon as repotting isi completed ; only sufficient will 
afterwards be necessary to retain the sphagnum moss in, a 
growing state. The period of actual rest is immediately after 
the flowers have expanded, and the plants may be retained in 
a slightly drier state at the roots for two- or three weeks after 
the flowerscape has become expanded. 
C. vulcanica and its variety grandiftora, are worthy of every 
consideration. Their long racemes of rosy-scarlet flowers are 
always attractive and useful for decorative purposes. C. rosea, 
is much smaller in, the flowers and has not the robust con¬ 
stitution possessed by C. vulcanica. Both of these species and 
the variety do satisfactorily when grown under the same con¬ 
ditions as that recommended for the Odontoglossums. 
Odontoglosismn Rossi i is certainly one of the most attractive 
of the winter and early spring-flowering Orchids. Being of 
miniature structure, it is particularly adapted for cultivation 
in shallow pans or baskets, so that it may be suspended near 
the roof-glass, a position that not only suits the cultural re¬ 
quirements' of the plants’, but it also enables, them to display 
their flowers to the best- advantage. It is a specie® that does; 
not necessitate annual repotting, _ and unless the potting com¬ 
post is in an advanced state of decay or has become close and 
sour, resurfacing -with new moss generally affords all that is 
necessary in alternate years. The present is a good season to 
attend to any repotting requirements necessary. The compost 
mentioned ab ove we find suits them admirably. Liberal water 
is required throughout the growing season, and a, cool shady 
side of the house given, through the hottest months of the year. 
H. J. 
Readers’ Competition. —Particulars of weekly prize see 
centre page. 
Hardy Herbaceous Border. 
Late-flowering Phloxes. —This section of the herbaceous 
Phloxes now forms one of the most beautiful classes of hardy 
perennials, and during recent years the family has been so 
greatly improved that they are now indispensable for border 
decoration. During the latter part of August and beginning 
of September, when the majority of summer-flowering per¬ 
ennials are past their best, and the Michaelmas Daisies, etc., 
hake not commenced to bloom, the Phloxes are in full flower 
and make a brilliant display of bloom unsurpassed by any 
other plants. They are also invaluable! for bedding, and 
might with advantage be much more largely used in, this re¬ 
spect, the best result® being obtained by using the colours 
separately. The best soil for their culture is a good deep 
loam, and before planting it should be thoroughly trenched. 
This is: best done during the winter months, so that the frost 
and winds can sweeten it, and plenty of good rotten, manure 
should be incorporated, a® Phloxes respond well to liberal 
feeding. The surface should be left in a rough state until 
spring, when it, will fake down, finely for planting. This can 
be done at any time during April, and throughout the growing 
season copious supplies of water, both clear and in a liquid 
manure state, should be given, as they enjoy plenty of moisture 
at the root®. 
Propagation can be performed by several methods, the most 
simple being by division of the roots in autumn or spring, 
and on heavy soils the spring is to be preferred. Increasing 
by cuttings, is also an excellent way, and may be done after 
the stems have finished flowering, or when, young growth com¬ 
mences during March or April. These should be taken off 
and inserted firmly ini small pots in a fairly light, porous 
compost. Place in, ai slightly heated pit until rooted, after 
which winter in a cold frame if taken during autumn. Those 
inserted in, spring should be rooted in the same way, and 
planted out when thoroughly hardened, and if allowed to grow 
away on one: stem a tine panicle of flower will result. Another 
method is to divide up the thicker roots into short lengths and 
place in: small pot®, keeping warm until they have commenced 
to grow. Propagation by seed is a, very interesting way, and 
desirable fresh colours! can, be obtained by so doing. The 
seed should be sown early in the new year in heat and potted 
or pricked off into boxes! when large enough to handle, tho¬ 
roughly hardening before planting out, which can, be done on 
a spare piece of ground in an open position about 1 ft. apart 
all ways. Any new forms worth saving can then be easily 
selected. 
Varieties.—There is now such a host of these that anyone 
wishing toi select the veiy best would be somewhat perplexed 
unless they were able to see the plants beforehand ; and a,si we 
have grown these somewhat, largely for several years, I think 
the following varieties will he found among the most de¬ 
sirable : Eclaireur, James Hamilton, Helene Vacaresco, a very 
large new whit#and probably the best of this colour. It is of 
medium height, carrying an enormous head of flower, and no 
Phlox surpasses it, for border decoration. Others are Prosper 
Henry, E. Boissier, Aglae Adanson, Pantheon, Et-oile de Lyon, 
Etna,, and C'oquelicot, the two latter being hue orange-scarlet 
shades; the latter is the most brilliant colour, but the former 
has the better constitution. Jos. Gerbaux, Paul Kruger (beau¬ 
tifully variegated foliage), Tapis Blanc, Renommee, Roger 
Marx, Mis® Pemberton, Epopee, Daniel La,sueur, TV. Charcot, 
and Co>eiur de Lyon, are all excellent, varieties, for the mixed 
border, but for grouping or massing in. large beds such fine 
old varieties as Virgo Marie and Pluton can be used with 
equally good results;. 
Bulb Planting. —Front now until late in the autumn this 
work can be proceeded with, and will include s-uch bulbs as 
Narcissus, English and Spanish Iris, Snowdrop®, Aconites, etc. 
The Scarlet Windflower (Anemone fulgens) should be planted 
at intervals of about a fortnight, so that the flowering season 
is prolonged. On heavy, retentive soils it is well to take a 
little extra trouble with these beautiful spring flowers, and u 
