September 10, 1904. 
THE GARDENING WORLD . 
717 
Hoya Carnosa. —It is- a matter of surprise to me. that this 
old favourite is not more' often met with ini garden®. Its 
culture is of the simplest, whilst for beauty and! utility the 
flowers are unsurpassed. The chief factors to success axe 
suitable’ soil and well-ripened wood. We have at the present 
time some plants in full blossom that are growing in 24-sized 
pot®, in which they have been for some four years without 
disturbance. The compost consists of two parts loam, one of 
leaf-soil, and one of old mortar rubble, with av good 1 sprinkling 
of wood ashesi and sharp' sand. The whole should be used! ini 
a, lumpy state, and ample drainage must be given. The 
growths should be trained along wire® near thei roof-giasisi of 
the greenhouse or temperate' house to ensure free flowering. 
Immediately flowering is past the supply of water should be 
reduced, or, in other* words, partially dry them off during 
winter. Early in spring top-dress and' encourage new growth 
by occasional applications of liquid manure. 
In gathering the flowers, do' not cut the stems, a® the 
blossoms are borne upon these in succeeding years. 
General Remarks ■— The season, of active growth in many 
plants cultivated in the stove and greenhouse is fast, drawing 
to> a close, and such subjects as Gloxinias, Caladiums, 
Achimeneis, tuberous-rooted 1 Begonias, and the like that die 
down annually should now have the supply of water gradually 
reduced and be subjected to cooler and drier conditions' in 
order 1 to induce them to go. to. rest as quietly and naturally as 
possible. Ferns that have been grown in the shade: and have 
beer afforded stimulant's should now be given more light and 
air, and feeding should cease, or sappy, undeveloped frond® will 
result. Thei above remarks apply to the majority of plants 
usually grown in glasshouses', with, of course, the exception of 
those for a winter display. K. M. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
Preparing for Winter. — Though it may seem to many 
somewhat early to talk about this, a plentiful supply of all 
kinds Of vegetable® through the long winter months so much 
depends on taking time by thei forelock, that I may be par¬ 
doned for mentioning it, and every garden, of any pretension® 
whatever should be provided with shelters of some kind or 
another, and it is surprising what a, large amount: of vegetables 
can be procured and safely secured during the severest 
weather, even when of the r udest description. As I have, often 
previously pointed out, cold pits or portable frames are an 
immense boon to those who. are .responsible for keeping up 
an un,remittent supply of vegetables and salad through thei 
short days of winter j but, failing these, rough skeleton frames 
or turfed pits make capital substitutes, and either of these 
can be constructed by any ordinary intelligent garden labourer. 
Covering of some kind, of course, must be in, readiness for 
warding off excessive rains, heavy snowfall® 1 , and severe' frosts. 
Light hurdles thatched with straw or bracken are excellent, 
in, very severe weather, but nothing that has come under my 
notice can, supersede specially-dressed canvas covers, which 
are made for horticultural purposes, and are sold by most of 
tire leading horticultural sundriesmen, and, with ordinary care, 
will last for several years. These have the advantage of being 
waterproof, and during very sharp' frosty weather, by placing 
some diy, warm material underneath them, such as. mats, the 
safety of the various crops is practically assured. The most 
important rules' to observe in the selection of a site and the 
construction of the pits is that the position should be well 
drained, sheltered, if possible, from the cold, north-east winds, 
and facing south. I prefer old hot-beds which have done duty 
during the early part of tihei year for supplying Cucumbers., 
Melons, Carrots 1 , Marrows, and such-like for wintering and 
growing many things which need protection. The surface 
should be well broken up 1 , and ini many cases, fresh material 
will have to. be added, so that the young plants may be raised 
as. near* the glass as possible, making sure that the back of the 
frame is sufficiently high to produce a good pitch for the water 
to. run off freely. 
Parsley. — Always in- great demand, and except in the 
warmer and more favoured parts of thei country it, is never 
safe to rely on, it in the. open. By thei middle of the present 
month, young, late-sown seedlings' should be lifted, removing 
any of the larger leaves, and dibbled in fairly thick in cold 
frames'; at thei same time, give a. good dressing of fresh soot 
and water thoroughly in. 
Lettuce. — Another moist important item which requires 
the aid of cold frames if it is to. be had in good condition 
through the winter. Small quantities from several sowings, 
both Cabbage and Co® varietieisi, should be lifted, and: planted, 
and at the same tune make a sowing- under glass. Lettuce, is 
frequently considerably damaged by the ravage® of wirerwoirms, 
and, when thesei axe known to abound, mean® must be taken to 
trap and destroy them, and it will be wise to take precaution 
at thei t-imei of planting to insert piece® of Carrot at intervals 
between the rows, which should be examined two or three times 
during the week. 
Endive, both of the Curled and Batavian varieties, requires 
similar treatment, but in the, case of thesei ample room should 
be allowed both between, the plants and the rows. 
Cauliflowers. — Seed should be sown twice during the pre¬ 
sent, month for supplying .early heads in the spring. Three 
capital varieties to rely on are Waloheren, Autumn Giant., and 
Magnium Bonum. S'ow on soil which is 1 not too rich, in, an 
open, airy position, thoroughly water in,, apply a dusting of 
soot, and net securely against birds. 
Turnips. — Make another 1 good sowing of Web,bisi Prizetaker, 
which will probably prove to be the most reliable bed. Attend 
to the thinning out of earlier one®. 
Spinach.—Make two or three good sowings during the 
month. E. Beckett. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Els,tree. 
Fruit Under Glass, 
Early Forced Vines. —By this is meant, those planted in 
permanent borders and started during thei month of Novem¬ 
ber for supplying- ripe Grape® early in May. The wood of 
thesei ought by now to. be fairly hard and of a nut-brown 
colour, and thei laterals may be shortened back to within the 
fourth or fifth leaf from, the base of their origin, which will 
assist to plump, up those bud® remaining against pruning time, 
towards the end of thei month. It is; unnecessary toi wait until 
the leave® fall before pruning, although it isi wise that they 
should be turned quite yellow before thei final pruning take® 
place. Now is a, good time to extend the border® of early 
Vines, or any that are faulty ait the root should have thei soil 
removed to the drainage and fresh compost, given, using the 
best loam that can be got, with a fair p]|roe,ntaJ| of old 
mortar or lime-rubble and a sprinkling of Vine manure, the 
whole to be thoroughly blended before wheeling in. Lay out 
the roots evenly, and make the soil fairly firm with treading 
or ra mm ing, finishing off with about, 6 in. of soil over the up¬ 
permost roots, and do not apply water for a few weeks, but 
keep the foliage of the vines syringed two or three time® a 
day, and apply a thin shade; during bright, weather, if con¬ 
sidered necessary, with a lesiser amount of ventilation for a 
ocuple of weeks. Mid-season Vines should be left until the end 
of October, and late one® must be left until the Grapes can be 
cut and bottled. 
Muscat Grapes that are ripe require the greatest carei to 
keep them in good condition until the new year, avoiding any 
excels® of fire heat, or .shrivelling will soon set in, and, bn the 
other hand, to. dispense with it altogether, and a few wet days 
set in, decay of thei berries will quickly follow : therefore mam- 
tain a. free circulation of air, with the. hot-water pipes just, luke¬ 
warm. What damping of the borders, etc., is necessary should 
