756 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
September 24, 1904. 
Fruit Under Glass. 
Peach Houses.— The earliest forced trees should have their 
wood well ripened by mow if intended to he closed early in the 
month of November, and will be fast losing their leaves', whetm 
the use cf the syringe may be discontinued. Should any of 
the trees require root-pruning, the work must be done forth¬ 
with by opening out a, trench 1 ft. wide, 3 ft. to 4 ft. from the 
trunk, and the mass of soil gradually reduced with the garden 
fork and shovelled out, preserving all fibrous roots', but cutting 
back strong fibreles® root's: with a sharp knife, giving an upward 
cut. Search well under the main, ball of soil, asi it is often 
here the mischief is done by a root, going almost straight into 
the subsoil; this should be out. hard back, and when returning 
the soil after 'scattering a few shovelfuls of wood ashes and 
lime over it, work it- well underneath the ball and make it 
quite firm, laying out all roots evenly and with a tendency to 
come upward rather than downward. Unless' the soil is- on 
the dry side., do not afford water for a week or more, but 
lightly syringe the foliage a few times during bright days. 
Succession, house® and the latest varieties of fruit will now be 
cleared, so may have all useless wood removed as advised for 
the early house some three months agO', and even here any 
root-pruning may now he undertaken, or young, unfruitful 
trees transplanted, which is the only way to cause them to 
fruit. Give abundance of ventilation, to trees which do not 
require any interference with the root., and see that the borders 
are kept moderately moist throughout the autumn and winter. 
Pot Strawberries. — Remove all runners, also weeds, as. soon 
as such can be seen, and if crowded any way thin, out the plants 
so that, sun and air can, freely play among or between them. 
Examine them twice daily when bright, and afford weak 
manurial waterings if the plants show any signs of weakness, 
or where worms have made ingress to the pots put a little 
fresh lime into the water, which will be the means of driving 
them out quickly. 
Pines. — Give ripening fruit every gleam of sunshine, and 
now the days are shortening use great care in applying water 
to those whose fruits are swelling, likewise- reduce the amount 
of atmospheric moisture, especially between the plants, in 
case too- much, water finds: its- way down to the root-s. En¬ 
deavour to maintain a night temperature of 70 deg., giving a 
little air at, 80 deg., and closing soon after 2 p.m., well syring¬ 
ing the walls and walks. Plants for yielding fruits next May 
and June ought now to- he resting, veiy little root- watering 
being required between now and the middle of January next, 
neither should the temperature by day or night be high, or 
excitement may cause them to show fruit., which would be 
disastrous to the Queen variety. A night temperature of 
65 deg. will be safest for the present, advancing 10 deg. with 
sun heat and full ventilation on warm mild days, guarding 
against cutting winds. Young stock and recently put in 
suckers require to be- near the glass roof to- prevent the- foliage 
getting spindly or weak. 
Figs. —Ripe fruits from under glass will be getting scarce 
now, although I have had a, very fair sample during early 
October from unheated houses, this being their second crop. 
The latest trees, as soon as the fruit is all cleared, should have 
a few good washings from the garden engine to cleanse the 
foliage, and the ventilators placed wide open day and night 
with a view of assisting to ripen, the wood. On the early- 
forced trees the leaves will be changing to autumn colour. 
These, too-, require full exposure for some weeks' vet, so as 
to prepare the trees for a stand being made in November. 
Should there be anv extension of borders in contemplation, the 
necessary soil should be got- in readiness. Good maiden loam, 
inclined to be fibrous, is the best staple, mixing with this wood 
ashes', soot, and a little bone meal, but avoid a strong soil, or 
rank growth will be the result. The compost should be fairlv 
dry when put in, then it can be made firm, which favour’s 
short-jointed wood. Borders need not exceed' 2 ft. in depth, 
well drained, with a concrete bottom. 
Bicton, Devonshire. James Mayne. 
The Stove and Greenhouse. 
Housing Plants.— It is no longer safe or advisable to leave 
greenhouse plant® out of doors, for apart from the danger of 
frosts occurring, wei usually experience heavy, cold rains from 
now onwards, which would make the soil too wet, thus chilling 
the roots of the plants. The 'structures the various plants are 
to occupy for the winter should be' thoroughly cleansed at 
this time, using plenty of hot soapy water, and well brushing 
it, into- all crevices' wherein insects and their eggs may be lurk¬ 
ing. Another important operation is, to well examine the 
drainage of those plants that -have been standing out all 
summer to ensure free passage of superfiuous water. The 
outsides- of all pots 1 should be washed, and weed's and moss re¬ 
moved from the surface soil with an old blunt label. In some 
instances it will be found that- -the roots are laid bare; such 
plants should be a-t once top-dressed with soil suited to- their 
respective requirements. Avoid overcrowding the plants, and 
for the first few weeks admit- abundance of air, and maintain 
a, certain, amount of humidity about- them in order that the 
change from the open; to- under glass may not be too- sudden. 
' This remark applies more especially to hard-wooded plants, 
which I have noted’ frequ entl y shed a, number of leaves, or 
they become yellow soon after housing. I am convinced that 
much of this may be attributed to the sudden change, and that 
it may be prevented by giving due consideration at, this time 
to the condition® prevailing in their native habitats. If not 
already done, there should be no further delay in completing 
the housing of Indian Azaleas, Epaoris, Acacia®, Erica®, Richa-r- 
dia-si, Salvias-, So-lamims, and Chrysanthemums. 
Plants in Frames.—Such subjects a® Cyclamen, persicum, 
Primulas 1 , Cinerarias, Calceolarias, Mignonette, Lachenalias, 
zonal Pelargoniums, and the like that are still growing in cold 
frames will now need removing to a light position in the cool 
greenhouse, such as the front, stages 1 or shelves near the roof- 
glass, after being duly cleaned and otherwise put, in proper 
order. All the above-named plants resent a close, stagnant 
atmosphere, or one charged with firoh eat; only sufficient of 
the latter should be applied to ward off sharp frosts, or to 
dispel damp. Another important matted' 1 that should be borne 
in mind is that, they are now in full activity, and judicious 
applications of approved manure should be maintained for 
some time to come, o-r they will receive such a check that will 
prove irreparable. 
Potting. —Many gardeners of the present dav turn numbers 
of greenhouse plants out- of their pots in the spring or early 
summer into good ground in the open to 1 make their growth, 
and the system lias much to recommend it, as many of them 
make better growth than they would in, pots-, and the work 
of watering so frequently is obviated. 
Among plant® for winter effect that do well under this 
system, mention, may he made of Sol an uni, Capsicasbrum, 
Ri-chardias-, Salvias, Deutzia gracilis:, and others. Any of these 
still remaining in their summer quarters should he potted up 
at onice, taking care to well water the day before lifting, in 
order that a. good ball of soil may adhere to them that but- 
little check result. Use -clean po-ts, well drained, and a mix¬ 
ture of old potting soil -and l-oam. Avoid over-potting, and 
keep- the plants syringed and shaded from bright sunshine- for 
a, week or two after being potted, when -the same treatment 
advised for other greenhouse plants during winter should be 
'■--orded. 
^•Chrysanthemums— Although these will withstand a degree 
if or two of frost without iniu-ry, yet- all of them should now be 
-■ housed, fo-r even should the weather remain open for a- time. 
