THE GARDENING WORLD 
October 1, 1904. 
776 
Li Hum candidum. 
The White Lily is an old inhabitant of our gardens—sio* old 
in fact, that no* one could give a correct date of its introduc¬ 
tion. to this country. The only thing to* fix its date of intro¬ 
duction is* to quote Gerard’s Herbal of 1596. It probably 
first reached our shores from Southern Europe, where it 
occurs in. a wild state, extending from the* island of Corsica, to 
Northern, Persia, and the Caucasus. Notwithstanding this 
hit of ancient* history, the fact remains* 'that modern cultivators 
have a.s much difficulty in cultivating the* White* Lily as our 
ancestors, had. Its mode of growth, and the time it com¬ 
mences* to* 'throw its leaves afresh, point to* the fact that if 
necessary to transplant, it, it should be done at a. much earlier 
period than any other Lily grown in the open. Experience 
would seem to* indicate that it. resents* being lifted at all, while 
another difficulty is brought about by the* advent of a. fungus 
during the past few years. Taking all these things into con¬ 
sideration, we* cannot help thinking that the White* Lily is 
happiest in the garden of the cottager, where 1 the* bulbs are 
Forcing Shrubs. 
A good display of flowering shrubs* during the* early months 
of the year does much towards beautifying the conservatory, 
as well asi supplying a- certain amount of cut bloom. Where 
they have been bought in for this purpose yearly, and after 
flowering have been planted out in a piece of ground reserved 
for such things*, a good many will be found well set with buds 
and flt for using again. These should be lifted and potted the 
first week ini October, carefully reducing the roots so as to get 
them into a suitable sized pot, while on the* other hand not 
reducing them to* such an extent as to distress the plants. The 
Gueldres Rose, Double Plum and Cherry, Staphylea c-olchica, 
Deutzia. gracilis, Lilac, Clethra alnifolia, and Hydrangea pani- 
culata all do well if potted in* a compost .made* up of two parts 
loam, one part leaf-soil, one part spent mushroom-bed rubbed 
through, a sieve, and a good dash of sand. The pots must be 
well drained and the potting firmly done, leaving plenty of 
room for water, any lack of this element soon being noticeable 
on bright days when they are in bloom. 
L iifli f 
JF< bb tfc Hon). 
LiniUM CANDIDUM, 
seldom interfered with by the 'cultivator. At. the same* time 
there* arm some places, both ini nurseries and private establish¬ 
ments, where* the* cultivators succeed perfectly with this, beau¬ 
tiful old-fashioned subject. The accompanying illustration 
shows *a. border that has been, rendered gay by .a. Auriferous 
mass of this pure white* and isweet-isieeinted Lily. We have, 
seem the situation where* this* plantation grew at the* Kinver 
Trial Grounds* of Messrs. Webb and Sons, Wordsley, Stour¬ 
bridge*, where the Lilies* were photographed. The illustration 
lias been placed at our disposal by the courtesy of the. growers. 
Bichorisandra thyrsiflora. 
This species of Dichorisandra* was* introduced from Brazil in 
the year 1822, and is undoubtedly one of the most, beautiful 
o*f our autumn-flowering stove plants. When* planted out into, 
a. border large plants may be obtained which well repay any 
little extra, attention devoted to their culture. 
The flowers are of a, sky-blue colour, being produced in a 
terminal spike, or thyrse. They have the good quality of re¬ 
maining in a fresh state for some considerable time. 
The most suitable compost in, which to grow these plants 
consists of good fibrous loam, peat, leaf-soil, with a fair amount 
of sand. Increase of stock may be obtained by division of the 
old plants, or by seed sown in spring. F. G. T. 
A different compost is required by Azaleas, Rhododendrons, 
and Kalnria latifolia. It should consist of one part loam, one 
of peat, and plenty of sand. These are rarely of a, suitable 
.size* for forcing when taken, from the open ground, or so well 
. set with buds as they should be; consequently they are in 
most cases bought in. As* they are, generally rather dry at the 
roots when they arrive, a good soaking will be required before 
potting. The best way is to hold one plant at a time in a 
. bucket of water until it. ceases to throw out air bubbles. 
When the whole lot has been treated in this way, proceed 
with the potting. This, must be* done* with a. rammer, as* these 
plants dislike anything like loose soil about them. As the 
plants will not be required for a month or two, plunge them 
up to the rims in ashes in a, fairly sheltered position. A bit of 
frost, instead of doing harm, does good by inducing perfect 
rest and so enabling the plants to give the best result® when 
coaxed into flower. In order to* lengthen, the .season of flower- 
ing, they must, be introduced into heat, in batches about every 
two week's or thereabouts!. A plunging bed should be made 
up, of good Oak leaves* in a Melon, or propagating pit, and a 
bottom heat of from 75 deg. to 80 deg. should be maintained ; 
the temperature of the house ranging from 60 deg. to* 65 deg. 
nights days* in proportion. Syringe the plant® twice or three 
times daily, according to- outside weather conditions, and en¬ 
deavour to keep a* good, moist, growing atmosphere. In 
taking them to the- conservatory, choose the middle of the day, 
wEen there is no frost, and it is* better to remove them when 
