May 21, 1904. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
425 
Applying Liquid Manure to Pot Plants. 
The phrase to water twice a. week with liquid manure, which 
iccurs time and again in the gardening Press, is apt. to- be misl¬ 
eading to young gardeners, as there are plants which twice a. 
jveek would prove rather much. 
Most soft-wooded plants will stand it twice a week, and 
berhaps oftemer, provided they have plenty of roots and healthy 
oliage; hut to apply it to hard-wooded plants, such as Azaleas, 
Rhododendrons, and Camellias, in the same way would prove 
lisastrous, especially during dull weather. 
To water twice with liquid manure without a soaking of clear 
rater between causes an excess of stimulants, which the roots 
are incapable of absorbing, hence sour soils and decayed roots. 
3a the other hand, to apply liquid when the soil is dry is 
equally serious, as the roots are liable to. be burnt. Let us 
oppose a young man is. in charge of a, house filled with Azaleas, 
n different-sized pots. He says to himself: “ Well, these have 
to get stimulants twice a week ; I shall apply them on Wed¬ 
nesday and Saturday.” The soil was moderately wet when he 
applied the liquid on Wednesday. Dull weather followed for 
two days, during which time the plant required nothing at the 
roots at all, and Saturday arrives, when it gets a second appli¬ 
cation of manure—the evil I wish to point out. 
A better plan would be to have a watering-pan full of liquid 
constantly in the house, and when he comes to a. plant that is 
dry, fill up to the rim with clear water. When he has finished 
watering with clear water, let him go over the same plants) 
again with the liquid manure, filling up the pots as before, 
and in this way the balance of over and under is: kept. 
Three tubs of manure water ought at. least to be kept in 
gardens, where possible—one for sheep droppings, second for 
cow manure, and third for soot, each to be used alternately. 
Each should be placed in a bag and dropped into, the tub ; fill 
up with water and let it remain, for two days, when it will lie 
fit for using. Pom-Pom. 
Carrots. 
This important vegetable, like many others, lias been vastly 
improved during recent years, the greatest gain being amongst 
the intermediate and short-rooted kinds. The: longer types, 
such as Red Surrey and Altrincham, though handsome in 
appearance when typical roots are produced, are of little value 
from a culinary point of view compared with the shorter kinds, 
and can only be successfully grown when special methods are 
taken to obtain them, or one is fortunate enough to. be favoured 
with a. soil suitable for their culture. Unquestionably, those 
1 most appreciated for table use are those generally known, as 
young Carrots:, which means those sown and produced quickly ; 
and there is no doubt, but that these are not. only much more 
palatable, but. are much easier to digest. Fortunately, with 
the varieties we now have before us, with the aid of heated pits 
and cold frames seed may he sown during every month in the 
year; consequently, there need be no lack of young, tender 
roots at any time. Seed should be sown every three weeks on 
warm borders of the short and stump-rooted kinds, continuing 
to do so, for the: next three months. As is generally known,, no 
kind of manure should he applied during the season of sowing, 
except that of soot, burnt, garden, refuse, and lime. This should 
have been worked in when the ground was trenched, applying 
a good dressing in equal proportions, giving another application 
at the time of sowing. This has a, tendency not only to check 
the ravages of wireworms, but, alsoi to improve the colour of 
the roots. 
Plenty of room should be allowed between the rows of inter¬ 
mediate varieties, 14 in. to 15 in. being none too much. Only 
on very favoured soils:, such as that of a sandy, loamy nature, 
can perfect specimens be obtained for exhibition purposes; 
therefore, when these are required, unless one isi in possession 
of such, special pains must be taken to ensure them. This can 
he accomplished even in the most stubborn and unsuitable 
land; indeed, it is from such that I have seen the very best 
results. Good holes should be bored with nn iron bar 4 in, in 
diameter, from 2 ft. 6 in. to 3 ft. deep, and 12 in. from hole 
to, hole. These should be carefully filled up with finely-sifted 
soil, such as old hotbed material, road gilt, and the old soil 
saved from the potting shed, adding to every fifteen barrow- 
loads one of wood ashes, half of soot,.and a lialf-bushel of bone- 
meal, which should bei thoroughly mixed and used moderately 
dry. Place a, few seeds in the centre of 'the hole, and thin out, 
to one in due course, leaving one at, a station. 
During the growing season frequent applications of soot 
should be given and the surface soil kept constantly stirred. 
Mulch between the rows about the end of July with old sifted 
Lilium tenuifolium. (See p. 423.) 
mushroom-bed manure to the depth of about 1 in. This will 
have a very beneficial effect, especially so on diy, hot soils, 
and prevent the tops becoming green. Sutton s New Inter¬ 
mediate, Carter’s Scarlet Perfection, and Webbs’ Prizewinner 
are three splendid types of the intermediate kinds. Carter’s 
Blood Red is cue of the most beautiful and distinct Carrots I 
know, and when produced at its best cannot be beaten; but, 
unfortunately, its constitution is not so g L ood as one would 
desire. I trust this may be improved upon. 
Towards the end of the summer and all through the autumn 
make small sowings either in cold pits or frames on old hot¬ 
beds which have been previously occupied with such things as 
Cucumbers, Melons, Potato®, and French Beans. By forkin 
up the old material and bringing it to a fine tilth, and applyin 
fee fc® 
