572 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
July 16. 1904, 
Fruit Under Glass. 
Peaches. — The bright weather experienced of late has been 
all in favour of ripening and swelling fruit, giving that touch 
of colour which cannot but. add flavour as well as improve the 
look of the fruit when dished for dessert.. Keep the trees well 
syringed twice daily until signs of approaching ripeness, and 
ventilate freely during the day with a lesser amount at night 
until the fruits are cleared, when full exposure should be given 
the trees, removing the top 1 lights, if convenient, as I am in¬ 
clined to think the wood sometimes gets too- well ripened in 
some structures and causes bud dropping with early forced 
trees. See that the borders are kept moist throughout tire 
summer before; as well as after, the fruit has been cleared, as 
dryness at the root is another cause of the evil just men¬ 
tioned. Give the latest houses plenty of manurial waterings, 
and tie down all shoots that are likely to shade the fruits, 
pinching the points of any gross ones, and all laterals removed 
as fast as. they push out. 
Early Vines. — As soon as all tire fruit has been out, expose 
the Vines, to all the sun and ventilation possible', and well 
syringe the foliage mornings and evenings to rid it of any spider 
or thrip which is sometimes likely to gain a footing while the 
Grapes are hanging. Do not allow laterals, undue limit, but. 
keep them pinched at the first or second leaf, and maintain 
a moist border, as. in the case of Peaches. Should the Vines 
appear in the want, of a stimulant, manurial waterings may 
be given for the next two months, allowing a little more free¬ 
dom of lateral growth, but not enough to interfere with the 
principal leaves on the Vine. Where mealy bug abounds, 
diligent search must be made if the pest is to be eradicated, 
touching each individual with a little methylated spirit with 
a small brush or feather, using the sponge on leaves if badly 
infested, and when syringing in the evening, a. wineglass of 
petroleum put in 3 gallons of fairly warm water and kept 
agitated while being put on will keep down, if not. destroy, the 
pest. 
Strawberries layered three or I our weeks since should now 
be. severed from the mother plant and stood in an open posi¬ 
tion and well watered; being in small pots too much cannot 
well be given. Repot into 51-in. and 6-in. pots forthwith, using 
good friable loam with a little soot, wood-ashes and bone-meal 
thoroughly blended together and pot very firm, using a. potting 
stick, or, as. it is sometimes, called, a rammer, for the purpose, 
keeping the young plantlet or ball a trifle below the surface 
of the soil when finished, allowing an inch for watering. After 
potting stand the plants on boards, or a thin bed of coal-ashes 
in a sunny, open spot, and give, daily attention in the matter 
of watering, using discretion until the pots get fairly full of 
roots, and keep all strings pinched off as soon, as they are 
perceived. Royal Sovereign and Leader are two good varieties 
to. grow for poriwork, the former for early work. 
Muscat and late Grapes. — The former, if approaching 
maturity, should be exposed to all the light possible by tying 
aside from the bunches any leaves that are shading them and 
laterals, frequently removed. Keep, a circulation, of warm air, 
and see that the border does not lack water when required. In 
some gardens it becomes a necessity to accord a slight shade 
to these Grapes when, ripe, but where ample foliage is, and the 
Vines in good health, this should not be required. The variety 
Lady Downes is a ticklish Grape to manage during the process 
of stoning; some growers apply a light shade for a few weeks', 
but 1 have found by affording ventilation first thing in the 
morning, and gradually increasing it as the sun plays on. the 
house, keeping the interior of the house dry until about mid¬ 
day and gradually lessening the ventilation up to about 5.30 
on Ipght days, when a good damping down may be given, 
leaving a chink of air top and front, very few scalded berrie 
will be found. Black Alicantes sometimes fall a prey to this 
but treated as: above, there should not be much complaint 
Look over the bunches of these and other late varieties am 
nip. out any berries likely to get wedged too tightly together 
Ricton, Devonshire. James Mayxe. 
Among the Orchids. 
Cattleya citrina. —Among Cattleyas of miniature structur 
this species is by far the most desirable. It is a native o 
Mexico, and was first introduced in 1838. Importations ar 
almost annually received, and are readily disposed of in tli 
imported state, for its quaint habit of growing with its hea. 
downwards, and the fragrance of its yellow flowers, are mos 
attractive, even to the least initiated in the knowledge c 
Orchids. It is not. always found the easiest to cultivate an. 
retain in a. vigorous condition for many years in successior 
It is one of the least- difficult- to manage as an imported plan: 
If only secured to a. block of wood, and given a little water a 
soon as the- growths appear, and suspended in a position wher 
it may obtain plenty of light, it rarely fails to yield a satis 
factory return at the flowering season; but after the first yea 
they generally, under such treatment, become diminished i. 
structure, and gradually lose their normal vigour, and becom 
altogether unsatisfactory subjects- to deal with. There ar 
a few exceptions, to this rule, where the plants are induced t 
give satisfactory returns for a, longer period with the blocl 
culture, but they are few and far between. 
Like many other subjects that have been found difficult t- 
manage in the past, the obstructions have, become- considerabl 
diminished since the discreet use of leaf-soil has been adopte. 
among the potting compost, used when the plants are first re 
ceived in the imported state. It is also remarkable how old 
declining plants become revived when planted in a compos 
consisting of one-third leaf-soil, the remainder consisting o 
fibrous brown peat and sphagnum, with sufficient rough san 
added to. render the compost porous. Old plants may b 
repotted when the new roots make their appearance, or inime 
diately after the flowers are past. 
As in all cases where le-af-soil is used in the compost, water 
ing must be done with discretion. Spraying the surface onl 
sufficiently to keep the sphagnum alive is all that is required 
Like, most other Mexican plants, they take a long period o 
absolute rest. During this period the- plants may be remove 
to a. cool and drier atmosphere, or if this is not obtainable tli 
atmospheric moisture in an intermediate or temperate lious 
will be found ample for its needs. When the season return; 
and the plants show signs of starting into growth, the surfae 
mo-ss, which will have died during the resting season, may b 
renewed with fresh-growing sphagnum, but the old compos 
should be thoroughly wetted before replacing the sphagniui 
I find pots-, baskets, or shallow pans the most convenient tj 
grow the plants in ; they may be thus the more readily su; 
pended near the roof-glass, where they are enabled to displa 
their flowers to better advantage, and they are more convt 
niently stored during the resting season. In chosing the pot 
to receive the plants care must be taken not to- select them to 
large ; only sufficient, room to. contain the plants comfortabl 
and by firming in with the potting compost is all that is re 
quired. 
The only hybrid that I have seen that has been derived fror 
the- influence of C. citrina- is C. La.mbhurst hybrid. This va 
raised by Dr. Harris many years ago-. There is therefore pr;u 
tically a field untouched, in which the hybridist may demoi 
strate what possibilities may be obtainable from its influenet 
Judging from the general good qualities of the flower, it leave! 
nothing to be- desired, and hybrids should, in addition t 
quality, produce some interesting characteristics which are onl 
to. be found in Cattleya citrina. Pendulous or semi-pendulou: 
flowers would make a charming addition to this and its alhe 
H. J. 
genera. 
