THE GARDENING WORLD 
October 15, 1904. 
810 
Among the Orchids. 
Masdevallias.— There are few m-ore interesting Orchids 
than, the different specie® which comprise the various sections 
which are included in the genus Masdevallia. Most people 
who are acquainted with Orchids are familiar with the showy 
kinds, which comprise such species as M. Veitchii, M. ignea, 
the variable M. co cornea (harryana,), and perhaps a, few of the 
varieties of M. Chimaera,, but the more interesting, if not so* 
showy, kinds are rarely to be met with out,side botanical 
gardens and one or two places in, England. I regret to note 
this class of plant, even of the larger-flowered kinds, are not 
so extensively cultivated by amateurs as they were a few years 
ago, and in prominent Orchid establishments they are not 
cultivated to the extent their merits deserve. There is far too 
much consideration given, to cultivating the few specie® of 
different genera, that are the prevailing fashion for the time 
being, go that, many of the most wonderful productions of 
nature and many well-known Orchids are almost unknown to 
many who consider themselves prominent orchidist® to-day. 
This narrowing-down, process is bound to produce such results, 
and it is only by the more enthusiastic and the growing of 
Orchids for the love of the plants that is preventing many in¬ 
teresting species of the various, genera, from becoming prac- 
tically extinct to cultivation. 
The present season isi the most, suitable time to attend to 
any repotting requirements that may be necessary among the 
large-growing kinds. Having completed their growth, they 
are emitting their new roots from the base of the recently- 
matured leaves, and by repotting at, this stage the plants 
. soon get their roots away into the fresh compost and re¬ 
establish themselves without; any apparent ill effects. The 
hot weather also being past, every facility is afforded to retain 
the desired moisture about them to enable them to, keep, in a, 
desirable plump condition until they become established in the 
new material, thus avoiding the constant spraying necessary 
to produce! like conditions under less favourable outside air. 
The plotting compost should consist of equal portions of fibrous 
peat, leaf-soil and sphagnum mos®, with sufficient rough sand 
or broken crocks added to retain a porous nature of the com¬ 
post when potting has been, completed. 
In dealing with large plant® that, have, become hollow 
through loss of leave® in the centre, I would advise that the 
specimen, should be broken up,. Shake away all portions of 
the old compost, and cut away any dead or decaying matter 
among the root® or about, the base of the leaves. Select a 
pot of suitable: dimension® to, contain the plant comfortably. 
Fill to, aibcut, one-half its depth with drainage, which may 
consist of bracken roots chopped to a suitable size, if they are- 
at hand. After placing the various parts, together in the 
centre of thei pot, work the compost carefully about the new 
root®, and press the whole moderately firm to about an inch 
of the rim of the pot and cover with a layer of living chopped 
sphagnum. Water as soon: as repotting is completed with 
rainrwater, thoroughly wetting the compost through; place 
in a shady position, and keep the temperature of the house 
about 50 to 55 deg. 
Although the temperature for Masdevallias, and cool-growing 
Orchids: is frequently given as 40 to 45 deg., I find therei is 
much less prospect, of the disfigurement of the, foliage by the 
, rust known as black spot where the higher degree of tem¬ 
perature! can be maintained. The Chimaera section, should be 
removed to slightly warmer conditions for the winter season. 
I consider 55 deg. the minimum average temperature for this 
class. The lovely winter-flow e,mg M. tovarensis, now eim.ib 
Hng its flower-scapes; should bei also transferred to a Warmer 
division. Care must be observed to remove the plants from 
the house when fumigating with vapouriser after the blooms 
are expanded, or 'their white flowers quickly change to, pink. 
The M. Estradae section and the tufted species of the M. 
t,ria,l'istella section, M. swartifolia, M. schroderianu, M. Sc-hlimii, 
M. melampus, etc., should be placed at, the driest end of the 
cool house; the miniature-structured kinds do best during the 
winter suspended near the roof glass. H. J. 
Hardy Fruit. 
Root-pruning, etc. — I have added the latter phrase because 
young trees making excessive growth are quicker brought into 
a fruitful state by bodily lifting and transplanting, cutting 
back and strong roots, using a sharp knife so a® to make a 
clean cut which heals over much sooner than a jagged one. 
October and the first half of November is the best time for the 
two operations noted above; that is, home trees, which can 
be transplanted within a few hours; those from, a distance, 
such as a nursery, must wait until the majority of their leaves 
have fallen, as shrivelling of the; wood may ensue if long out 
of the ground. S'tona fruits should be first to receive atten¬ 
tion, beginning with Peach and Nectarines, by opening out a 
trench a, foot wide, 3 ft. 6 in. to, 4 ft. from the base of the 
tree, and gradually working away the soil with a garden fork 
towards the -stem, preserving fibrous roots, but cutting away 
strong fibreileiss ones as above mentioned. Search well under 
the ball of roots for any taking a downward course, which 
should be severed close up, and in returning the soil add a 
little fresh loam mixed with wood ashes and lime rubble, 
making all quite firm and laying out the root regularly, as 
advocated; in the calendar for “ Fruit Under Glass,” on Sep¬ 
tember 24th; in, fact, full directions as to, root pruning and 
lifting were given there, and are equally applicable here. 
Preparations for planting should be undertaken at, once by 
trenching the ground 2 ft. deep, and adding wood ashes, lime 
rubble,, or fibrous loam, according to the kind of trees intended 
to, be planted, 'bearing in mind that all stone fruits require 
lime in, some form or other to assist in the formation of the 
said stone. Let a heap be prepared beforehand, so that all 
is in readiness and the pits got out, and where old, unfruitful 
trees have to, be rooted out, and the site must again be planted, 
all except the, top, spit should be eixchanged for fresh soil, 
avoiding rank manures of any kind, as such only encourage 
rank growth, and of Himes canker among Apples and Pears. 
Make quite sure where new plantations are contemplated that 
thorough drainage is ensured before planting, as a stagnant 
subsoil also favours canker, often the result of badly-ripened 
wood. A list of varieties of the, various, fruits, grown in the 
open will be given, in a later issue as a guide to, would-be 
planters, yet I would advise them to visit neighbouring 
gardens, and find out for themselves which appear the best 
croppers, as. locality has much to do with many varieties, but 
having an eye to a succession of the respective fruits. 
Medlars.— We have a better crop, than, we have had for 
several .season®, the Royal being especially fine. No precise 
date can, be, given, when these fruits should be, gathered. They 
ought to, hang as long as possible, but, as soon as they begin 
to, drop, gather the crop and store on a dry sheet where they 
can be frequently examined and sent, to the still-room when 
fairly soft,; it may not be for a month or even six weeks 
after gathering. These fruits make very excellent jelly. 
General Hints.— As all fruits are cleared and garden nets 
have been required to ward off the feathered tribe, do not 
allow them to remain outside after once they are quite dry, 
but, do them up and hang in their proper quarters, after 
making a note of what is required for another spring. Those 
that were new early in the year should be sent back to the 
maker and be fresh, tanned, which will lengthen their duration, 
a great deal. Work the flat, hoes between, all fruit quarters 
