November 19, 1904. 
THE GARDENING WORLD . 
927 
Globe Artichokes. —As is generally known., the better varie¬ 
ties of these are much more likely to be injured by severe 
weather than those of inferior quality, consequently a, good 
quantity of strong suckers should be carefully taken off and 
potted up into 7 in. and 8 in. pots, when these can be plunged 
in leaves or ashes on ai southern site, and sheltered, if neces¬ 
sary. The old stools should be cleaned, and protective 
material had in readiness, such as Bracken or long litter,, and 
place securely round them in case of severe frosts. Chinese 
Artichokes (Stachys tuberifera) should be lifted, all the larger 
tubers sorted out, and stored in sand for use as required. 
E. Beckett. 
Aldembam House Gardens, Els tree. 
Hardy Trees and Shrubs. 
The fallen leaves. —By the time these notes are in, print 
nearly all the deciduous trees and shrubs will have become 
bare, and steps must be taken to remove the leaves from the 
lawns and shrubberies. The earlier this is done the better, for 
less trouble will be experienced, and if the decaying foliage 
is left for some time on the ground, the worms will partly 
draw many beneath the surface, and it is then difficult to rake 
these off. ' As each heap is collected they should be wheeled 
away to the place reserved for them, and stored thickly to- 
o-etlher, sot that, decay will quickly set in, and form that valu¬ 
able ingredient leal soil. In some gardens the leaves are' 
forked Tn just beneath the surface, instead of raking them off 
the shrubbery, and this is a,n excellent plan, as it forms feed¬ 
ing material for the shrubs. 
Staking. —-Now that we may reasionablv expect to experienco 
wet and windy weather, it will be advisable to look carefully 
through the shrub borders and see if the stakes and supports 
are in a suitable condition 'to withstand the winter. Any that 
look partially decayed or unfit should be 'taken out and a, 
strong new stake put in its place ) and the part which needs 
examining most carefully Is by the surface of the soil, for it 
often happens that the stake above ground may be perfectly 
sound, and underneath quite rotten ; the first strong wind will 
then make known the instability of it. I vividly remember 
a good illustration of this. We had a fine specimen of the 
Golden Oak (Quercus pedunoulata 'Concordia), standing some 
9 'ft. 'to 10 ft. in height, which! was newly staked last winter 
with a strong Hazeil stick. This, to, all appearance, was in 
good condition, but during the early part of the autumn,, on 
a, gusty day, the stake snapped close to the ground, and the 
Oak also'. No doubt the quick decay was due' to the heavy 
clay soil holding the moisture, and it will be seen that on 
heavy land the work of supporting needs thoroughly doing. 
Hazel-nut, sticks seldom last long when used for this purpose, 
and Ash is far preferable if i't, can he obtained. Disease isi 
often seen in the first-named, and generally takes the form of a 
white, spongy substance, or small red spots on the bark. 
Stakes that, are' so affected should be instantly burned, as the 
disease quickly spreads, and will prove fatal to, the tree or 
shrub. 
Ties. —Pieces of cloth cut into strips and fine tarred string 
are generally the materials used for securing the tree to the, 
stake, and if one can, constantly attend to them this is satis¬ 
factory ; but, on the other band, if they are left, for some time 
without being loosened and retied, disastrous result® often 
follow. Many trees increase their girth of stem considerably 
during the growing season, and if the ties are left the fine 
string will cut, into, the bark and cause serious injury. I have 
seen -the stem of a, young, tree' nearly severed by this, in one 
season. The new tree tie', patent,ed by Mr. E. Beckett,, has 
many advantage® over the old method. It is applied much 
more quickly, has a very neat appearance, and ther’e is no, 
danger’ of the bark being injured, because the tie will expand 
with it. 
Protec! ing choice Shrubs.— In every garden where beautiful 
trees and shrubs are cultivated, except, in the extreme south 
and south-west parts of our islands, and fortunate indeed are 
those who are situated in such a locality, there are some varied- 
ties which annually need a slight protection from severe 
weather, at all events in a, young state, and from the present 
time till the beginning of next, month will be a, very good time 
to attend toi this. As I have before advised, dry Bracken is 
excellent material for the purpose, and the best plan with 
shrubby plants is to loop up, the branches lightly and place 
three sticks round, tying- these at the top over the centre of 
the plant. The bracken, can then be placed among the 
branches but not too thickly ®o as to exclude all air, and 
between the sticks, tying round several times with twine to 
prevent any blowing out. If some fine cinder ashes are placed 
round the base' so much the better, especially on heavy soils. 
In the case of larger specimens if some stakes are driven in 
the ground, and a mat is tied closely round, leaving open at 
the top,, this will generally prove sufficient as the opening can 
easily be covered over in very severe weather. With wall 
shrubs, in, most case®, a, mat neatly tiled over will be ample 
protection, but bracken can be applied first if this is thought 
necessary. 
Jasminum nudiflorum. —Ever sine© its introduction from 
China in 1844 the naked Jasmine has always been much ap¬ 
preciated in English gardens, and its bright yellow flowers are 
very welcome at this sealson. It is excellent for training over 
a wall or for making a shrubby specimen, and when used for 
the latter purpose tire drooping branches, freely studded with 
flowers and devoid of foliage, have a charming effect. It 
succeeds in the majority of soils, however poor, and blooms 
continuously through the winter months'. The variegated 
variety, J. nudiflorum aureiovariegatumi, isl also a beautiful 
•plant, by reason of its almost golden foliage, which is verv 
effective on a red wall. A. E. Thatcher. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree, Herts. 
Fruit Under Glass. 
Strawberries. — To, achieve success' in forcing this fruit the 
plant® must have .been, specially prepared a® advised from time 
to time in, these calendars, and this is not all, as many failures 
have been known to ocoor even with well-ripened crown®. This 
can generally he traced to undue hastening of the' plant from 
the 'start. Too high temperatures by night, and even by day, 
in the dark, dull days of winter especially, must be avoided; 
45 deg. by night, with a, rise of 10 deg. for the first few 
week®, 5 deg. sufficing on, dull daysi, will he found safe lines 
to work upon. There is still another item in connection with 
Strawberry forcing, and it is this, the plant must he so placed 
that the crowns got every gleam of light, possible from start, to 
finish', which means 'that the shelves or 'staging upon which 
the plants are' stood should be within 18 in. of the gloss roof. 
Well-ventilated lean-to house® are the best for early work, 
although many gardeners start, their early batches, in pits or 
frames which have been filled with freshly-fallen leave® made 
firm by treading, and then, stand the pots thereon, not plung¬ 
ing them, but covering the, light® at, night with mats when 
frost threaten®, leaving a, -chink of air constantly top and 
bottom as a preventative of the foliage getting drawn up, and 
for the escape of excessive moisture. Here very little root 
watering will be necessary, but the gentle heat- from the' leave® 
will soon: 'Cause the flower scape to push, up, when-, before the 
petals, begin to, expand, the plant® must, be removed to a. drier 
atmosphere. 
Before' introducing the pots under glass examine the drain¬ 
age hole, clear the surface soil of weeds or moss and any 
withered foliage, scrubbing the pot®, unless they are to he put 
on b-eds of leaves, when it may be deferred until they are 
removed into the house. Worms in the pots can be got rid 
of by watering a time or two with' lime water, not too, strong, 
and this is only objection I have against standing the pots 
on beds of fermenting leaves, a® worm® are liable to get, in, 
but by placing narrow heaps for the pot® to stand on, this may 
be averted. Those placed on shelves in houses should he 
dewed overhead with the syringe once or twice daily according 
