1036 
THE GARDENING WORLD . 
December 24. 1904. 
Hardy Herbaceous Border. 
Lilium giganteum. — When this Lily is cultivated success¬ 
fully it forms during July one of the most ornamental and 
handsome of the border occupants, but to induce it to grow and 
flower well it is necessary to prepare the ground and look out a 
suitable position beforehand. The most favourable site is one 
where the sun does not reach the plants until the afternoon, 
and also where cold winds cannot injure the growths. On the 
edge of the woodland or copse where the large trees afford the 
necessary protection an ideal place will be found, but failing 
this it should be given the most shady position in the border 
or shrubbery. 
Where the bulbs are to be planted, the soil should be taken 
out to a depth of 3 ft. or 4 ft., taking care to give a thorough 
drainage, for although this flue Lily revels in a moist soil, 
stagnation is fatal to it. Any kind of garden refuse will be 
suitable for putting in the hole, such as fallen leaves, shrubbery 
primings, and the like, so that it will ultimately make excellent 
vegetable food. A suitable soil for growing in will consist of 
good turfy loam, a liberal proportion of well-decayed leaf-soil 
and silver sand in sufficient quantity to render it quite porous. 
The whole should be well trodden into the hole and left to 
settle down during the winter months. 
A strong bulb of this Lily will flower three or four years 
after planting, and it then dies, but a number of small bulbs 
are to be seen coming up round the old .stem, which, if they 
go on satisfactorily, will increase and flower as the parent. 
The best plan when obtaining bulbs is to procure some of 
various sizes, so that after they become established one can, as 
a rule, depend upon seeing one or more in a flowering state. 
It is advisable to pot up the bulbs on arrival and start them in 
a greenhouse or cold frame in the spring and then plant out 
when late frosts and cold winds are past. They should be 
planted 6 in. to a foot beneath the surface and a good mulch¬ 
ing of cow manure given, but not covered over so as to obstruct 
the growth of the spike or sheath of foliage: Good soakings 
of weak liquid manure should be given in dry weather, and if 
rabbits or any other animals are likely to interfere, some wire 
netting should be placed round. 
A good clump of this Lily in flower is, indeed, a beautiful 
sight and is worth taking a little extra trouble with to grow 
it successfully. The foliage is large, deep shining green, and 
heart-shaped ; and the immense tubular white flowers emit a 
very pleasant scent which is particularly noticeable at some 
distance in the cool of the evening. There is no doubt that the 
Lilium family is one of the most beautiful of all bulbous plants, 
and varieties that succeed well are almost indispensable to 
every garden. It often happens, however, that owing to an 
injudicious selection or other causes one often hears of failures, 
especially on heavy, retentive soils, such as we have here. 
Those that have proved most serviceable and easily grown 
with us I mention below. All the aura turn varieties succeed 
well in the Rhododendron beds and prefer a shady side, and 
should be left undisturbed. For the herbaceous borders L. 
umbellatum is one of the best, not being particular as to soil 
or situation. The same may be said of L. tigrinum splendens, 
which is one of the best. L. clialcedonicum, with its bright 
scarlet flowers, is very useful and accommodating. L. parda- 
linum and its variety californicum are two of the best and 
grow with remarkable freedom. L. elegans is also a most use¬ 
ful section. L. candidum is still one of the best for general 
cultivation, and L. Martagon and its forms are of easy culture. 
Should the soil be very poor a good-sized hole should be taken 
out when planting and replaced with a mixture of loam and 
leaf-soil, which will suit all the above mentioned. 
© 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. A. E. Thatcher. 
Hardy Fruit. 
Plums. — These bear principally upon spurs, although well- 
ripeued medium-sized shoots of leaders made the past summer 
will probably carry a fruit or two, so should be nailed or tied 
in, and if much over a foot in length the point of the shoot 
should be pruned. Trees in the open, if any age, require but 
little knife after once they come into bearing, merely spurring 
back to within a couple of eyes all spray growth, as in the case 
of wall trees, and the old Victoria is still one of the best 
varieties to plant in the open, as there are sure to be A ictorias 
if it is a Plum season at all. 
Apricots.— In many gardens this fruit is left until spring 
before the final pruning is given, but I see no reason why such 
work need be further delayed. There is but little to add 
bejmnd what has already been written concerning the Plum, as 
the Apricot fruits on both spurs and young wood made the 
previous year. Probably the finest fruits are had upon the 
latter, but the tree should be well studded with spurs if an even 
crop is expected. Endeavour to get these said spurs formed as 
closely to the wall as possible, which can to a great extent be 
clone by using judgment when removing surplus growths soon 
after the fruits are set. Back in the summer I called attention 
to the advisability of shortening extra strong growths on young 
trees, should such be necessary, at a time lessTikely to create 
gumming' than doing it now. Another item often overlooked 
—that is, allowing nails to press tightly against the branches, 
is a source from which gumming can often be traced. After 
the training has been done and prunings, etc., gathered up, the 
question of “ top-dressing ” the borders presents itself, and it 
is one that should be annually carried out, as it cannot but 
tempt the roots to the surface, which should be the aim of 
every fruit grower. Before adding any fresh soil it is advisable 
to prick up with the garden fork 2 in. or so of the surface, 
conveying the same away to another part of the garden where 
it can be utilised for vegetable crops, and replacing with fresh 
fibrous loam, mixing one peck of wood ashes and half a pec a 
of fresh lime to every six bushels of the former ; or in case it 
is not convenient to replace with new soil, give the borders a 
moderate dressing of the wood ashes and lime, forking this in 
2 in. to 3 in. deep. Soot is also a good stimulant, as also are 
many of tire artificial manures which contain potash, which is 
most beneficial to all stone fruit; but as this work is best done 
during diy weather, it is best to delay it until March month 
unless we get drying winds for a week or two in the interval, 
when take time by the forelock and get it done forthwith. 
Bush Fruit — Gooseberries are left until spring in many 
localities before pruning them on account of birds knocking 
out many of their buds, which they will do more especially 
during hard weather, when little food can be got from the 
ground, but with due precautions much can be clone to prevent 
their depredations. This fruit, unless disbudded in early 
spring, pushes far more growths than is requisite for the next 
season’s crop, consequently a large percentage must be cut out 
at the annual pruning, or a tangled mass is the result. Doubt¬ 
less finer fruits are produced on young wood as well as heavier 
crops than upon the old method of spurs; therefore, in thin¬ 
ning out the branches reserve the straightest and best placed to 
form a symmetrical bush, allowing a space of 6 in. between 
these lateral growths so that the hand can be got in for gather¬ 
ing the fruit. A well-formed bush should have all its growths 
pointing outwards, and those over 18 in. in length should have 
their points nipped out, spurring back superfluous shoots to a 
-couple of eyes ; but before beginning to prune survey the bush, 
as often a main branch or two can be dispensed with, thus 
allowing more space for young wood. All Gooseberry bushes 
are best grown on a clean stem 6 in. clear of the ground, as it 
is suckers springing from the base that cause a deal of over¬ 
crowding we see in Gooseberry bushes. The pruning done, 
select what cuttings are needed, and clear away the remainder 
to the smother heap, and syringe the bushes with a mixture of 
soot and lime put through a fine-meshed sieve, adding a pint 
of Quassia Extract to each 4 gallons of water, thoroughly 
mixing all together, choosing a dry bright day for the job, 
