105S 
THE GARDENING WORLD , 
December 31, 1904. 
Among the Orchids. 
Calanthes.— The deciduous Calanthes are exceedingly useful 
subjects for the supply of flowers during the months of Novem¬ 
ber, December, and January. They make an exceedingly 
attractive display when arranged for effect in decorative work 
with other plants, or where required for cut-flower purposes. 
The graceful flower-scapes are easily arranged and are much 
appreciated for house decorations. It is a class of plants that 
have found particular favour with gardeners, when perhaps 
there is no attempt made to cultivate any other class of 
Orchids. 
Under the conditions of the Melon house or ordinary stove 
we find such varieties as C. vestita and C. Veitchii often far 
more successfully cultivated than is observed in places where 
Orchid cultivation is a speciality. I am well aware that in 
many places where Orchids are grown as a speciality Calanthes 
are considered in the light of outcasts scarcely worthy of con¬ 
sideration, but there are still many collections where they are 
extensively cultivated, and if they could be induced to thrive in 
a, '(satisfactory manner, they would be cultivated far more ex¬ 
tensively than they are at present. There are various reasons 
given in explanation of the unsatisfactory state of culture, but 
with all the explanation obtainable the dreaded spotting of the 
foliage and flower-scapes does not materially decrease, and cul¬ 
tivation is more often on the decline than in increased strength 
arid vigour of the plants. I am willing to concede all allowance 
for the weakening of constitution through the process of in- 
breeding from the varieties mentioned above, which is prac¬ 
tically the foundation of the bulk of the hybrids now under 
cultivation, and would gladly side with those who consider this 
the reason of failure, could I but find the species C. vestita, 
C. rosea and the primary hybrid C. Veitchii done in a satis¬ 
factory manner; but since there is nothing to choose between 
the state of cultivation in the primary more than in the later 
generations of hybrids, it is patent that we must look elsewhere 
for the cause of culture decline. Disease ; yes. Hold on to 
tins argument as long as you please, with what beneficial re¬ 
sults? Observe tire young shoots immediately they commence 
to unfold their leaves; miniature white markings are found. 
Place these under a microscope ; it will be found that a minia¬ 
ture thread of the venation of the leaf has become broken. 
As the plant develops its growth, these spots become more and 
more prominent, growing into light patches which suddenly 
turn blue-black. Examine and test the composition, and wo 
find it is " indigo ” that has become formed in the cells. What 
causes the original splitting of the tissues which develop into 
this dreaded black spot so common in our Orchid-liouse grown 
Calanthes ? 
Give a few of the plants so affected to a friend or brother 
gardener who cultivates the first-mentioned kinds satisfac¬ 
torily. If they have not been tested before they will probably 
grow the plants given to them until, the bulb begins to form ; 
they will fancy they have developed a sudden disease, and will 
probably, for the safety of their own plants, throw the plants 
away or remove them to a separate and safe distance. Induce 
them to persevere with their culture, and almost invariably 
they succeed in producing satisfactory conditions of cultivation. 
I am not going to brand the Orchid specialists ” as bad 
cultivators, or that unsatisfactory results are brought about by 
bad cultivation. There seems to be a far more feasible reason 
which it would be difficult to altogether overcome. The 
majority of the plants grown in an Orchid collection are 
epiphytal kinds. The amount of atmospheric moisture there¬ 
fore necessary to maintain such plants far exceeds the require¬ 
ments of terrestrial species. There appears at least some 
reason to think that excess of moisture tends to eDcoura°-e 
(D 
growth sc rapidly that it may be a cause of the breaking of 
the tissues in the early stage. The black marking takes place 
about the time the new bulbs gain maturity—August and Sep¬ 
tember—at which time atmospheric conditions are nearly 
saturated. Consider this with native conditions, where the 
plants finish their growth and produce their flower-scapes after 
the wet season has passed. Is it hoped that system, contrary 
to Nature, can possibly succeed? I am convinced and hope in 
due coui'se to be able to substantiate these remarks on facts 
before another year is passed in this column of Tiie Gardening 
World. H. J. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
At the moment of penning these lines we are experiencing 
i severe spell cf wintry weather, and fortunate are those who 
have followed my advice given in previous calendars and made 
provision accordingly. Sufficient roots of all kinds will have 
been taken up and put in a place where they are easily get-at- 
able. The Celery will have been protected with some light 
material, such as litter or bracken, and the more tender sub¬ 
jects, such as Lettuce, Endive, Parsley and Cauliflowers, will 
have been replanted in cold frames or pits. We are now cut¬ 
ting excellent heads of the latter daily, and are likely to for 
seme time to come, thus a continuous supply of Cauliflowers 
and Broccoli is likely to be maintained all through the season. 
Broccoli which were layered as advised have been made 
further secure by placing a little bracken over each head, and 
it is surprising what a beneficial effect this has even on the 
most tender varieties, mentioning two which we always depend 
upon—namely, Sutton’s Christmas and Snow’s Winter White. 
It matters not how severe the weather is when such protection 
is afforded them, these' go on forming their heads, and are sure 
to be appreciated in eveiy establishment. 
Forcing.—By this, I mean steps should at once be taken to 
forward many of our most useful vegetables, with the aid 
cf portable frames and a reasonable amount of fermenting 
material, of which leaves should form the principal item, with 
a small amount of stable litter sufficient only to hold them 
together. These hotbeds should be built up in a neat and 
workmanlike manner in an open, sheltered position facing- 
south, and not until the heat is well on the decline should the 
soil be placed thereon, or this will, in all probability, become 
baked, and few things take kindly to it afterwards, and espe¬ 
cially does this relate to Potatos and Carrots. 
The latter are always in great demand, and frequent sowings 
should be arranged for all through the spring, summer, and 
early autumn. Stump-rooted, quickly maturing varieties are 
best for the purpose, and the two best I am acquainted with 
are Carter’s Long Forcing, which is stump-rooted though some¬ 
what long, makes very little top, and is excellent for the pur¬ 
pose. Sutton’s Inimitable is a very short, almost roundvariety, 
quite distinct, and one of the veiy best for the purpose. The 
soil should be finely sifted, and nothing is better than old pot¬ 
ting material. It should lie used in a fairly dry state and 
made moderately firm. A small quantity of finely sifted cinder 
ashes should be placed all round the frames to prevent snails 
and slugs gaining access to the young plants, or these will 
quickly demolish them. When there is any sign of wireworm, 
thrust into the ground pieces of old Carrot. These should be 
examined two or three times a week and the depredators de¬ 
stroyed. 
Potatos should be planted in a fairly rough compost of two 
parts fibrous loam, two of well-decayed leaf-soil, and one old 
Mushroom-bed manure. To every two ordinary bar rowloads 
add a 48-sized potful of fresh soot. The whole should be 
thoroughly mixed before placing in the frames. Very little 
fermenting material will be required in heated pits for these, 
but sufficient soil should be placed therein to keep the growths 
as near the glass as possible, of course, allowing for the haulm 
to properly develop. Sharp’s Victor and Sutton’s Ringleader 
are excellent varieties for early work ; both quickly mature 
and are of very superior quality. Keep a good supply laid 
out on trays in a light house or greenhouse temperature so 
that the sprouts made are stout and sturdy. 
