I06o 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
December 31, 1904. 
the seed order, and place in the seedsman’s hands. Examine 
all plants now at rest and see that they do not become exces¬ 
sively wet or dry. Look through the stock of^empty flower¬ 
pots and make note of any that will be required in the near 
future, and place the order at once. Labels, stakes, etc., 
should be prepared ; also see that the stock of potting soils 
and sand are under cover and in sufficient quantities. 
K. M. 
Fruit Under Glass. 
Early Permanent Vines. —As soon as growth is noticeable, 
the temperature at night may vary from 55 deg. to 60 deg., 
according to the weather, advancing to 75 deg. by day with 
sun-heat, admitting fresh air up to mid-day whenever the 
weather allows it. With advancing growth the syringe should 
be lightly used upon the Vines, as the foliage in the dull 
season is very tender and quickly crippled, but the surround¬ 
ings should be well moistened twice a day and the floors 
damped down about 7 p.m. Young Vines that may have been 
tied horizontally to secure a more even break must be placed 
in position before there is any danger of the shoots being 
broken off. Where pot Vines give the earliest grapes these 
will be in advance of the former and require attention in the 
matter of disbudding as soon as it can be seen which are the 
best-placed shoots to remain, dispensing with the weakest, and 
stopping at the first or second leaf beyond the bunch those 
that are to form the crop. Guard against overwatering for 
the present, and until growth is well advanced do not use any¬ 
thing but clean water. Assistance in the way of manurial 
waterings is of far more advantage when the Vines are well 
into leaf and up to the time the berries commence to colour. 
The temperatures given above are applicable here for the 
next few weeks; also the remarks as to ventilation, etc., 
strictly guarding against cutting winds so injurious to terrier 
growth on Vines especially. Where Muscats are expected at 
midsummer, the house should now be closed, affording’ a night 
temperature of 50 deg., syringing the rods two or three times 
daily until they begin to push their buds, when treat as above. 
Cherries.—Where these are grown in pots and early fruit 
looked for, a start may be made with the dawn of a new year 
upon us. A mild bottom heat of 55 to 60 deg. will be suffi¬ 
cient, recently fallen leaves, Oak and Beech, being preferable, 
Low night temperatures must be enforced as with Peaches, 
45 deg. being the safest until they come into flower, when 
another 5 deg. may be given, and the day temperature ought 
not to exceed 70 deg. with sun-heat, even when in bloom ; 
5 deg. to 10 deg. less with fire-heat. Keep the trees well 
syringed twice a day before the flowers expand, when a drier 
atmosphere must be maintained. 
Figs. — Trees started in November may now have the night 
temperature raised to 55 deg. to 60 deg., admitting a little air 
at 70 deg. fine mornings, closing soon after 2 p.m., running 
up the temperature to 80 deg. doing no harm, syringing the 
trees twice daily iff bright weather, once sufficing when wet 
or dull. The bottom heat should not exceed 75 deg., and 
attend well to the watering as the terminals extend. A suc¬ 
cession house should soon be closed, giving a night tempera¬ 
ture of 50 to 55 deg., advancing 5 to 10 deg. by day, accord¬ 
ing to external conditions. If a bed of fermenting material 
could be placed in the house, it would save fire-heat being- 
turned on for a few weeks to the advantage of the trees, which 
should be syringed mornings and afternoons early. 
Pines. —Fruits are slow at maturing and will lie for the 
next month or so ; neither will the watercan be required often, 
an extra dose often turning the fruit dark in the centre. Avoid 
syringing among the plants during dull weather; in fact, 
little of this is necessary during winter, except close up to< 
the hot-water pipes. Maintain a night temperature of 68 to 
70 deg., advancing to 85 deg. with sun-heat, admitting but 
little air at this time of the year. Succession plants require 
a few degrees less at night; in fact, the division ours are in 
often falls to 55 deg. on sharp nights. Prepare beds for start¬ 
ing an early batch of plants by removing parts of the old 
plunging material, lime-washing the walls, washing the glass, 
woodwork, etc., and then renovating the plunging material 
with leaves or tan as the case may be, so that all will be in 
readiness for a start next month or early February. 
Melons. —V here extra early fruits are wanted and plenty 
of heat at command, a few seeds may be sown in 2-1,-in. pots if 
fairly light material, two seeds in a pot, and either plunge the 
pots in bottom heat of 70 deg. or stand in a cutting box with 
moss or leaves packed around them, and place the box on the 
hot-water pipes in a temperature of 65 deg. to 70 deg. Little 
or no water will be necessary for some few weeks, but moisten 
the plunging material daily. James Mayne. 
Bicton, Devonshire. 
The Juniperus. 
there are many beautiful trees in this genus which should 
be grown in the pinetum, on lawns, and in the borders, where 
their distinct form and the various tints of the foliage relieve 
the monotonous outlines or dull colours of other shrubs during 
the winter months. Many of them grow into beautiful and 
stately specimens, and are very ornamental; some of them 
have very bright variegated, glaucous, and golden foliage. 
Those of a more spreading growth are useful for furnishing the 
rockery, where they look quite natural growing out over- large 
stones. For small avenues the Juniper is very effective, if 
those which grow into a pyramid shape are planted. Beautiful 
hedges, from deepest green to bright golden yellow, can be 
made with them, and should take the place of the more 
common shrubs for that purpose. 
The many foreign lands of which the Juniper is native make 
them very interesting, for they come from nearly all parts of 
the globe. It. is a wonder they thrive in this country so well 
as they do, considering the difference of climate in which they 
have to grow. 
From China come Juniperus cliinensis, J. macrocarpa, J. 
sphaerica, J. s. Sheppardi’i, all shapely and pretty trees. J. 
Sabina, J. S. prostrata, J. tamariscifolia are alpine varieties 
and very useful on rockeries. J. drupacea, a native of Syria 
and Asia Minor, is very distinct and makes a nice specimen 
for lawns. J. rigida, a native of Japan, thrives very well in 
this country. J. recurva is a Himalayan type growing in the 
style its name implies. J. virginiana is a North American 
tj-pe ; from this species there have been raised several beauti¬ 
ful garden varieties. The best of them are J. virginiana albo- 
spica, J. v. aurea variegata, J. v. bedferdiana, which have dis¬ 
tinct foliage and are some of the best for lawns and borders. 
J. v. Burkii, J. v. elegans, J. v. glauca, J. v. Shottii are also 
very good. The variety in a bed of seedlings of this species 
is almost endless. A good example of this may be seen in an 
avenue at Fomham, near Bury St. Edmunds. 
Garden varieties, such as J. excelsa stricta, J. canadensis 
aurea, J. cliinensis albo variegata, J. c. aurea, and J. communis 
fastigiata are very useful, the latter being a very upright and 
compact grower, and is commonly called the upright Irish 
Juniper. 
J. communis is a native of this country, growing on the 
Downs between Chichester and Petworth, Sussex. J. Com¬ 
munis oblonga pendula comes from Caucasus, and is a very 
free grower if given plenty of room. 
September, October and March are the three best months in 
which to plant Junipers; some care is needed, for most of 
them have small fibrous roots. Generally, when they come 
from nurseries a good deal of the soil is shaken out, leaving 
only the mass of roots. These, when planted in the ordinary 
way, get trodden in close together without soil between them. 
A better way to plant is to water them in. Spread the roots 
well out and cover them with 2 in. or 3 in. of soil; then, if 
possible, turn the hose on them, washing the soil into every 
crevice between the roots, adding more soil as the water is 
poured on ; it will then all settle down firmly. There are very 
few trees which are not benefited by this treatment. 
H. W. 
