January 14. 1905. 
THE OAR DEN INC WORLD. 
sin wld have a lime washing, so that all is clean and pure by 
planting time. Fairly retentive loam with a little wood ashes 
and bone meal will grow the best Melons, this forming a ridge 
and made very firm by ramming with a brick when fairly dry. 
If not already done sow at once in 2 A in. pots and plunge in 
bottom heat, and when through the soil place near the glass 
in a temperature of 63 to 70 deg. James Mayne. 
Jiicton, Devonshire. 
Hardy Trees and Shrubs. 
As the new year advances the work in this part of the garden 
will become more pressing, and while the weather is open it 
is advisable to get as much as possible accomplished, as it is 
ipiite likely that frost may prove a serious hindrance later on. 
Climbing Roses. —Whether grown on pillars, on trellises, or 
over arbours, these annually need a certain amount of atten¬ 
tion in the way of pruning, mulching, etc. ; and unless they 
receive the necessary treatment to ensure success, it frequently 
happens that they lose their vigour and do not flourish so 
well as could lie desired. With all classes of climbing Roses, 
and especially those of the Crimson Rambler type, which, when 
in good condition, send up flowering shoots every year for the 
next season’s display, it is absolutely, essential to remove the 
old wood which has accomplished its work, and really does 
little more than detract from the vigour and flowering pro- 
perties of the younger material. The best plan is to untie the 
growths and let them be taken down, when the old wood can 
be easily removed without injuring that which is to remain. 
Where climbing Roses are largely grown it may not be possible 
for want of time To treat all in this way every year, but a few 
can be done one year and a few the next, which is better than 
attempting to do the whole' if they cannot be well done. When 
grown on poles the shoots can be tied or nailed, but I much 
prefer the former, as one is enabled more easily to take down 
the growths in due time. 
In addition to giving this attention to the upper part of the 
plant, the roots must also lie looked to, as they are gross 
feeders and soon exhaust any feeding material given in the 
growing season. It is an excellent plan to take out a good 
depth of soil all round the plant, but far enough away not. to 
injure the roots, and place in a good layer of bones and well- 
decayed farmyard manure, filling in with the soil and treading 
well down. On light, dry soils, even at this season of the year, 
it is advisable to give a good soaking of diluted farmyard 
liquid, which will prove most beneficial later on. 
Propagating.—Climbing Roses grown from cuttings, that 
is, on their own roots, succeed admirably, and this is an ex¬ 
cellent way to increase them quickly. Cuttings made from 
medium-sized rods of last year’s growth and about 9 in. in- 
length should be firmly inserted in a partially shaded piece of 
ground and in a moderately light soil. If given plenty of 
water in dry weather they will root strongly and lie ready for 
planting next: autumn or the following spring. Plants which 
have been obtained in this Way or those purchased from a 
nursery can now be planted, but special attention should be 
given to the soil, and if it is unsuitable, a good hole should be 
taken out and replaced with a good layer of decayed cow 
manure at the bottom and a mixture of turfy loam, decayed 
leaf-soil and road sand. Much more depends on how a. Rose 
is planted than many imagine, and care should be taken to 
lay all the roots out evenly and some of the finest of the soil 
shaken among them. They will then quickly commence active 
growth, and no check will have been given. Give a. good 
mulching of decayed Mushroom-bed manure and place a label 
to each, which will not only be of use for further reference, 
but will enable others to see what the particular variety is. 
Some object to labels on the score that they look too con¬ 
spicuous, but I do not think this is so if one employs a neat 
pattern, and eveiy garden is certainly rendered much more 
interesting by the use of them. A. E. Thatcher. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. 
The Stove and Greenhouse. 
ire-) tarnations. - - A batch of these invaluable flowering 
plants should find a he. in nil gardens, for they are at oi e 
( :i 3 1,1 culture, require carce anj h< at and theii i 
symmetrical blossoms are always in demand. The cuttings 
may be struck at various times of flic year, but 1 much prefer 
to perform the work now for two reasons, viz., there is 
generally an abundance of good cuttings now, and by striking 
i Inis early in the year they quickly become established and 
have a long season in which to become vigorous and strong. 
My method is to pull off the young vigorous side growths, aid 
after going over these again with a sharp-edged knife to clean 
off the ragged heel, they are inserted round the side of Tin. 
pots filled with flaky sandy soil, which should be composed of 
cipial parts loam and leaf-soil, with sharp sand added, 
placing a further layer of the latter on the top for dibblirm the 
cuttings into. 
Plunge these into a plunging material of a temperature of 
70 deg., whilst the atmospheric temperature should be about 
60 or 6o deg. 
As soon as rooted pot off singly into thumb pots and place 
on a light shelf in a cool greenhouse, where they may be well 
aired. Here they may well remain until April, when "they will 
be ready for another shift onwards. 
Zonal Pelargoniums.—The present is a good time to cut 
down the old stock plants of these and insert what cuttings 
will be required for flowering next autumn or winter. 'The 
cuttings usually emit roots quickly by standing the pots in 
which they are inserted upon a shelf or side stage in a vinerv 
that is now being gently started. These cuttings should not 
have the water from the syringe played upon them or they 
will damp off. It may here be said that no matter whether 
the single forms or the double are grown, precisely the same 
mode of propagation answers. It is good practice to first cut 
down the whole of the plants, tying each variety by itself 
together with one label. 
In cases where the stock is short of any*' variety the old stools 
may be kept on the dry side for a few more* weeks and re¬ 
started into growth then. Insert the cuttings five in a 60- 
sized pot, and carefully label each legibly. 
The compost should be light and consist of three parts flaky 
leaf-soil to one part loam, adding plenty of road grit or any 
sharp sand. If the cuttings -receive a good watering in with 
tepid watei at the time of insertion they will require no more 
foi some time. It is better to err on the side of diyness than 
to get them too wet until well rooted. When well supplied 
with roots they will be potted off singly into 60’s and grown 
on quietly on shelves. 
The Forcing Pit.—Continue to get in relays of the various 
bulbs and other plants to take the place of those that are now 
in flower in the conservatory. The aim should be to maintain 
an unbroken supply of blossom as far as is possible from this 
time onwards. Take care to dispel all damp each day by 
opening the top ventilator and turning on some fire-heat during 
the time, but avoid having the heat running through the struc¬ 
ture when closed unless the weather be severe. Should the 
plunging material have become cold and wet a great part of it 
should be thrown out and replaced with new stable litter and 
tree leaves, and the whole incorporated well together. 
Those having established plants of Olivias can place them in 
the forcing pit; they are amenable to gentle forcing. My 
experience is that the flowers are much improved by being 
brought along in a genial warmth, for the spikes are thrown 
up bolder than when kept in a cold greenhouse throughout. 
The plants will be much benefited by having the foliage well 
sponged at this time. 
Seed Sowing — Such hard-cased seeds as Asparagus in 
variety, Myrsiphyllum and Sweet Peas for early flowering 
should now be sown and plunged in propagating bed until ger¬ 
mination takes place and then brought up to the light. The 
Sweet Peas should be removed to a cold frame near the roof 
glass and remain there. K. M. 
