January 28, 1905, 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
07 
when it comes to the cooler and cool divisions of our Orchid 
houses. 
It is often difficult to get people out of a belief that be¬ 
cause someone else says and does a thing that has been laid 
down bv our forefathers, it is the only possible way of success¬ 
fully cultivating a particular class of plants. Surely in this 
enlightened age some of these systems are to be considered. 
Those who have gone before had not the information and the 
facilities for obtaining information that are possessed by us at 
the present, especially with regal'd to the conditions under 
which many of the species grow in their native habitats. One 
of these considerations may be devoted to our cool-growing 
Orchids. As I stated above, the case is altogether reversed 
from the requirements of the warmer kinds. The plants in 
this division at the present season—the veiy depth of winter 
_are in their most active state of growth. Yet lower mini¬ 
mum temperatures are recommended for plants in this state, 
and also free circulation of air. Where the Odontoglossums 
grow we know there is not a very considerable variation of 
temperature at any season, but is it reasonable to believe that, 
contrary to nature, the plants make their growth at home with 
the temperature at the minimum degree? I would invite my 
readers to try some of their plants in a minimum degree of 
50, with 53 to 55 deg. before ventilation is reasonably afforded 
during the winter months. It is ample time to ventilate 
freely when the outside conditions are more favourable and 
the plants not in such an active state of growth. 
H. J. Chafjiax. 
Hardy Trees and Shrubs. 
Shrubs for Low Walls. —There are many shrubs of varied 
character and beautiful appearance suitable for this purpose, 
and it is surprising that their merits are not more fully recog¬ 
nised, for they form an almost invaluable adjunct to those 
gardens, whether large or small, where low walls and similar 
structures exist, as they do in the majority of places. To have 
them at their best requires but little labour, and if a good 
selection is made, there will be many things of interest through¬ 
out the whole year, and particularly at the present time : and 
what would otherwise be an unsightly structure may be one of 
much beauty. It is a good time now to prepare the ground, 
providing it is not frozen too hard, by digging along the base 
of the wall or taking out holes where the plants are to be 
placed, and replacing with a good mixture if the soil is of an 
unsuitable nature. During March or April will be the best 
time for planting the majority, but this can be done at any 
time when they are supplied in pots. The growths will re¬ 
quire to be kept nailed to the Avail and receive occasional 
Avatarings in diy weather, but, apart from this, little attention 
is necessary, except in some cases a slight pruning annually. 
One might give a very large number of varieties well adapted 
for this purpose, but I intend mentioning only the best of 
those that have come under my notice. 
For the beauty of their flowers, Cydonia japonica and its 
varieties must take a foremost place, and few shrubs are 
better adapted to this kind of planting. Just before the leaves 
appear in April the plants are perhaps at their best, but 
flowers are produced throughout nearly the whole year. The 
large, ornamental fruits are deliciously scented and make ex¬ 
cellent preserve. The typical Cydonia or Pyrus japonica is 
Avell known, but the numerous varieties deserve more atten¬ 
tion, and will ere long be recognised as some of our most 
beautiful flowering shrubs. The best varieties are : Sinica, 
which has dark crimson flowers and appears to be a very scarce 
form ; cardinalis, with large, well-forin'ed flowers of a bright 
orange-scarlet colour; Knap Hill Scarlet, large scarlet 
flowers; Mallardi, with creamy-white blossoms, and rosea, a 
delicate rose-pink. Other good forms are Siinonii, Gaufordii, 
candidissima, umbilicata., and carnea. Cydonia Maulei is 
quite distinct in every way, as the growth and flowers are 
considerably smaller, but are produced in such large quantities 
that this shrub is highly ornamental. The flowers are orange- 
scarlet in colour, and the fruits become golden when ripe. The 
so-called white variety of this is really a dirty white and not 
so beautiful as some would have us believe. Doubtless this 
will be improved upon. 
The Escallonias form a valuable evergreen group, and if 
given a Avarm position will prove hardy in all but the coldest, 
districts, Avhere they must lmve the protection of a mat in 
winter. It is most essential that a thorough drainage be given 
these. E. macrantha and E. m. Ingrami are tAvo of the best 
and freest-growing varieties, which both have ornaijtental, lus¬ 
trous green foliage and reddish-crimson flowers produced 
throughout the summer. E. philippiana is a small-growing 
variety with numerous quantities of pure Avliite flowers. The 
new E. langleyensis is a valuable addition and a fine shrub for 
the purpose. It is wonderfully floriferous, the colour being a 
bright rosy-carmine. 
Berberis stenophylla is one of the most graceful and beau¬ 
tiful of wall shrubs, succeeding Avell on the north side. For 
a similar position Forsythia suspensa is equally good, also 
Periploca graeca, which is a strong grower, but withstands 
hard pruning well. Azara microphylla is one of the best of 
evergreen shrubs, and though the countless yellow floAvers are 
inconspicuous, they emit a delicious fragrance. Ceanothus 
dentatus is a desirable evergreen with small, dark green 
foliage and numerous deep blue flowers, which continue to 
appear from May until the autumn frosts. C. Gloire de Ver¬ 
sailles is one of the best of the azureus type, and Avhen given 
a warm position has feAV superiors. The young Avood may 
get killed in winter, but this does not harm the plant. The 
same remarks apply to the Indigoferas, of which I. gerardiana 
and I. decora alba are the most suitable. Olearia macrodonta 
and 0. stellula.ta are very handsome evergreen shrubs, the 
foliage of the former being quite distinct from any other 
shrub. 
Hydrangea scandens and H. quercifolia, two particularly in¬ 
teresting shrubs, should also be given a place. Garrya ellip- 
tica. and the female form are excellent, and the long catkins 
are very ornamental at this season. On account of its pleas¬ 
ing evergreen foliage, Griselinia littoralis is a worthy subject 
and succeeds well on stiff soils. Other shrubs which must 
not be omitted are, Photiuia serrulate., Raphiolepis japonica, 
Teucrium fruticans, Carpenteria californica, Lonicera semper- 
virens, L. flavum, Cotoneaster horizontalis, Viburnum macro- 
cephalum, Rubus deliciosus, Berchemia racemosa variegata, 
Vitis heterophylla variegata, Ercilla spicata, Choisya ternata, 
Berberidopsis coralline, and Actinidia Kolomikta. 
For the majority of the above-mentioned shrubs a distance 
of from 6 ft. to 8 ft. would be a sufficient, distance apart when 
planting, as they are of medium growth. 
Aldenliam House Gardens, Elstree. A. E. Thatcher. 
Fruit Under Glass. 
Early Figs. —November-started trees, especially if in pots, 
require a plentiful supply of water at the roots, as well as plenty 
of atmospheric moisture, if red spider is to be kept away, and 
frequent applications of manurial water at a temperature of 
75 or 80 deg. Prick the terminal shoots at the fifth or six 
joint, and rub off all superfluous shoots likely to cause eroAvd- 
ing of the foliage, and do not hurry to tie down the shoots 
unless in contact with the glass. A night temperature from 
58 to 60 deg. will be a safe one to adhere to for the next few 
weeks, advancing to 75 deg. with solar heat, airing at <0 deg. 
Keep the fermenting materials replenished, and lightly moved 
up Avith the fork, so long as roots are not working amongst it, 
moistening the same with the syringe twice daily, and charge 
the evaporating troughs with a little manure water. Trees in 
borders require less water than do those in pots, yet they 
must not get dry after once in active growth, and the syringe 
must be freely worked on bright days, wetting every bit of 
foliage; and the borders, walks, etc., should be sprinkled with 
farmyard manure water, broken down to a mildish form, two 
or three times each Aveek. Succession trees should be well 
syringed two or three times daily, and a night temperature of 
