116 
THE GARDENING WORLD . 
February 11, 1905. 
as in themselves they are not very highly coloured. The 
female flowers are produced in unbranched spikes, and the 
plant flowers in spring. 
G. Fremonti was introduced from North-West America in 
188i, or, a., least, the plant was made known to the public in 
that year. The flowers are not unlike those of G. elliptica, 
but the branches of the catkins are shorter, stouter, and the 
flowers more crowded. For these reasons they do not hang so 
gracefully as those of its better-known congener. The leaves 
are broader than those of the plant just named, varying from 
elliptic to obovate, but not wavy at the margins. There seems 
an uncertainty about the exact period of the introduction of 
several of the species of Garrya, no doubt because the public 
seldom get notice of such things until they come into bloom. 
Plants raised from seed would require many years to attain 
the flowering stage. It has proved hardier than G. elliptica 
grown under the same conditions upon a wall in the far north. 
G. inureti is the hybrid above mentioned, and was raised 
from 't. fadyena and G. elliptica in the Paris Botanic Garden 
about 186:1. The first-named of these parents was the seed- 
bearer. -.j.e progeny is intermediate between the parents, but 
the oblong leaves are relatively longer and narrower than those 
of elliptica. The other species at present in cultivation is G. 
flavescens, but it is not widely known in cultivation. 
Those who desire variety in their evergreens would do well 
to add some more of the Garryas for the sake of the rich, 
dark green foliage and the interest produced in the grounds by 
the catkins early in the season. 
Cyclamen. 
These plants should hold a prominent place with gardeners. 
Indeed, for a display, a well-grown batch of Cyclamen is 1 hard 
to beat. 
For decorative purposes, whether as plants or for cut flower, 
they are of great service at a time when flowers are scarce. 
To bring these plants to perfection careful culture is necessary. 
To- begin with, the seed should be of a good strain. As 
they veiy often take a few months to germinate, the seed 
should be sown during the latter part of August. For this pur¬ 
pose pans carefully crocked should be used ; the graduated 
crocks occupying about one-third of the pan. It is important 
that throughout the different shifts the pots and crocks should 
be scrupulously clean. The compost should be light and 
porous, consisting of equal parts of fine loam and leaf-soil, with 
a liberal addition of sand. 
After sowing, the pans can be placed near the glass either 
in a warm frame or in an intermediate house. The pieces of 
glass placed over the pans should be dried every morning, as 
repeated condensation makes the soil sour. 
When the seedlings are large enough to handle, they should 
be potted off into thumbs, using a more fibrous compost. 
Leaves should never be used to cover the creeks. Fibre from 
turf—the fine being separated through a sieve—only should 
be employed. Again place the seedlings as near the glass as 
possible in a temperature of 60 deg. F. As soon as rooted airy 
conditions should be given. If they have been placed pot 
thick they now require more room. Gentle spraying of the 
plants and between the pots will give a genial atmosphere. 
With the next shift into large 60's, a fibrous compost of two 
parts loam, one of leaf-mould and sand with some charcoal 
added should be used. 
When growth is again evident, if necessity demands the 
plants can well be placed in a heated frame without detriment. 
A frame where heat can be employed is preferable, not only 
because the plants can be taken to a permanent place earlier 
and left out longer, but that heat can be turned on to contend 
with the vagaries of the weather in late spring or at any time. 
If the pit is a deep one 1 , strong boards can be placed across, 
say, half-way up, or sufficient to allow 15 in. of ashes to be 
placed over. If this depth of ashes is given it allows the 
plants to be lowered as they grow. The surface layer should 
be finely sifted, as it ensures the plants being placed level. 
The lights clean and the walls whitewashed, the frame is 
ready to receive the plants. These, placed in rows, should be 
angled, as more space is obtained for each plant. When the 
plants are fairly well rooted, they can be given their final shift, 
the largest into 32’s, the remainder into 48’s. The compost 
should be still more lumpy. The loam is best pulled to pieces. 
Again give two parts, with one of leaf-soil, one of rotted cow 
manure, charcoal and sand, with a sprinkling of some fertiliser, 
should the loam not be of the best. 
When well rooted, give plenty of air, and slight feeding can 
be started with weak soot-water. From now onward feeding 
must have careful attention. If patent manures are used, 
apply spaiingly at first, whether as a liquid or otherwise. 
In watering, care must be taken that the water—especiallv 
manure—does not splash the crown of the conn. In this good 
potting will assert itself, for if the conn at some potting or 
other' has been almost buried, it will in all probability rot. It 
must be remembered that Cyclamen when well rooted are 
fairly gross feeders arid that more foliage means more flower. 
The feeding should be constantly changed. Artificial fertilisers 
arid guanos are specially liked by this class of plants. An 
occasional slight surface dressing of the former is beneficial. 
At no period of growth should the plants be cramped for room. 
Syringe them on bright days in the morning and afternoon, 
especially between the pots. If spraying with diluted soot- 
water twice a week is practised it will give a healthy tone to 
the foliage. 
Should the plants be taken out of the frames in order to be 
re-arranged before putting them back the ashes should be 
dusted over with soot. In shutting the frames for an hour or 
so after syringing in the afternoon care should be taken not. to 
do so too early after such an application. Soot keeps worms 
and insects at bay; but should greenfly appear, fumigate 
lightly with some vaporiser. Thrips will never give trouble 
if there is sufficient moisture about to counteract dry winds. 
Shading is often overdone; in consequence, the leaves become 
drawn. It should be brought into use when the plants are 
likely to flag. In the early part of the year, when in thumbs, 
the seedlings are liable to have their leaves scorched owing to 
snatches of bright sun.' However, in very hot weather apply 
additional shading, although an extra syringing may save the 
necessity of doing this. 
On warm nights and dull days the lights should be drawn off 
as far as possible. The dews during the former are very bene¬ 
ficial. 
Plenty of air, proper feeding, and the judicious use of the 
waterpot will give every satisfaction to those who have studied 
the wants of this class,of plants. A. J. 
Cynorchis compacts. 
Several of the terrestrial Orchids are of dwarf habit and 
very pretty appearance, but only those who have wide experi¬ 
ence are bold enough to attempt their cultivation. That under 
notice is a native of South Africa, and flowers regularly in 
winter. The height of the plant is only 4 in. or 5 in., and the 
stem bears a raceme of white flowers spotted with purple on 
the lip. The plant bears only, two leaves, which rise from 
the soil, the first one having a very small blade and a large 
sheath. The second leaf is large, but the base of it is also 
wrapped round the flower stem as it emerges from the com¬ 
post. The habit of the plant is similar to that of an Orchis, or 
more truly like a Habenaria, only the spur of the flower is 
very short. The lip is three-lobed, and in general habit the 
plant resembles Habenaria carnea, though the flowers are con¬ 
siderably smaller. Those who really give these terrestrial 
Orchids an earnest trial usually manage to flower them year 
after year, though some species are admittedly difficult. It 
is just possible that the difficulty is connected with the 
organisms at the roots, which form a sort of symbiosis with 
the plants on which they are found in their native habitats. 
The above species is flowering at the present time in the cool 
Orchid house at Kew. 
