118 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
February 11. 1905. 
drained. The compost should consist of two parts well-decayed 
leaf-soil, one part light fibrous loam, one part silver sand, to 
which should be added a small quantity of finely powdered 
charcoal and crocks. Arrange the plants in small hand-lights 
or propagating frames in the same temperature, where they 
should remain till active growth commences, when it will be 
safe 1 to transfer them to shelves near the glass for a short time 
in the same temperature, after which, when active root action 
has commenced, remove them to a cooler place—a greenhouse 
temperature will suit mem admirably. To ensure good bushy 
plants two or three stoppings should be given them, the final 
one being the end of August. By the first week in June the 
plants should receive their last shift into well-drained 6-in. 
pots, and the compost should be two parts good loam, retain¬ 
ing as good fibre as possible, one part leaf-soil, and one of finely 
sifted horse droppings, adding to each bushel an 8-in. potful 
of silver sand and a 6-in. potful of fine charcoal and crocks. 
A thin layer of bones should be placed over thei drainage. 
Pot firmly, stake and tie neatly. The plants should find a 
home during the summer months in the cold frames. Water 
carefully at all periods of their growth, and weak manure water 
should be given every other watering. 
When the pots become filled with roots, by the end of 
September, remove the plants to the greenhouse, standing 
them on a cool bottom near the glass, and the growths should 
be kept clean by occasional fumigations. J. T. 
Gourds for Decoration. 
From a cooking point of view, Gourds, with the exception 
of the varieties grown as Vegetable Marrows, are not in much 
request, though some varieties are valuable for kitchen use in 
winter. 
As subjects for garden decoration during summer, however, 
Gourds, especially the smaller-fruited varieties, have a value 
entirely and distinctly their own, and it must be confessed that 
their cultivation for this purpose has fallen into abeyance of 
late. It is difficult to understand why they should have fallen 
in popular favour, as the plants are easily and quickly grown, 
and, by the quaint forms and colours of their fruits, give an 
interesting and picturesque appearance to the garden. 
Doubtless, to bring out to the full their wondrous colours 
and form a summer of a semi-tropical nature is requisite for 
some varieties, and the fact that our climate is very erratic 
and uncertain may, to some extent, be responsible for their 
more restricted cultivation. Nevertheless, there are some 
varieties that will flourish under very adverse circumstances, 
and if trouble is taken to procure these, the cultivator will 
reduce the risk of failure to a minimum. 
One of the most reliable varieties is Cucurbita ficifolia, 
which is a rapid grower, setting and swelling its green and 
white mottled, oval-shaped fruits in abundance, even in the 
dullest of weather. There are many odd corners usually to be 
found about gardens that may be utilised for Gourd cultiva,- 
tion, and many unsightly objects which may be rendered both 
beautiful and interesting if covered with some bright, quaint- 
fruited variety. Old tree-stumps, rustic arbours, or wooden 
trellis may be made things of beauty and joy, for the summer 
at least, space economised, and, with suitable varieties, the 
supply of winter vegetables augmented. The Hubbard Squash, 
for instance, keeps sound for months after it is ripe. Arches 
over garden walks have quite an aristocratic appearance if 
some of the smaller-fruited Gourds are trained over them, while 
if a comer of the kitchen garden can be devoted to the culture 
of some of the larger-fruited sorts, it will always repay a visit 
during summer and early autumn. 
Seeds of the selected varieties should be sown singly in small 
pots by middle or end of April, on a mild hotbed, for prefer¬ 
ence, though a greenhouse temperature will do them well. A 
shift into larger pots will be necessary when plants have 
readied rough-leaf stage. A light, loamy soil is most suitable, 
and plants should be kept as near the glass as possible. 
When the roots are running freely in the new soil the pots 
should be removed to a cold frame and gradually hardened of 
so as to ensure strong, sturdy plants for planting out in end 
of May. Any rich garden soil will grow them well, but if 
plants are put out in positions where the natural soil is poor, 
some fresh, rich soil must be given to obtain good results. 
Once the plants are fairly established,in their summer quarters 
watering must be attended to, and, if on arches or such struc¬ 
tures, tying and stopping will require attention, while' occa¬ 
sional waterings with liquid manure will be of advantage when 
fruits are set and swelling. The smaller varieties are'not 
of much value for cooking, but such sorts as Giant Crookneck, 
Summer Crookneck, Golden Bush, Ohio, Fordhook, and Hub¬ 
bard Squashes are all useful in the kitchen. G. F. 
Cropping the Kitchen Garden. 
Now that February is with us, those who have gardens will 
be giving their attention to the various crops that have to be 
put in. To the professional or practical amateur this will be 
little or no trouble, as in a good many cases it will have been 
pre-arranged as nearly as possible' where each crop has to go ; 
but with the less experienced, or beginner, it will not be such 
an easy matter, as if success is aimed at or expected, a thorough 
system of tillage must be observed. Therefore the following 
hints may prove helpful to those of limited experience. It is 
a well-known fact amongst gardeners that plants of the same 
natural order should not succeed each other, with few excep¬ 
tions. For instance, plants grown for their bulbs or roots 
should not be succeeded by others grown for the same purpose ; 
the same applies to plants grown for their leaves or seeds. No 
doubt, in a good many gardens the first sowing of Peas and 
Broad Beans will have been made on the warm border. Suc- 
cessional sowings may be made on ground previously occupied 
by Carrots, Parsnips, Beet, Asparagus, or Celery. " They re¬ 
quire liberal manuring in small gardens where a change of 
site cannot be found them. They may be given a change by 
putting the rows next year a few feet one. way or the other from 
where they stand this year. 
1 lie ground should also be prepared to receive Onions : 
being a gross feeder plenty of manure should be put on and 
well dug in, if not already done. They may follow Peas, Beans, 
Celery, Potatos, Asparagus, also Onions. Parsnips and Carrots 
should have a nice- rich piece of ground, but on no account 
put them on ground that has been recently manured, or they 
will grow forked. The same applies to Beet, but they should 
not be sown in over-rich soil, or the specimens get much too 
large. Cauliflowers may follow Peas, Beans, Potatos, Lettuce, 
Onions, etc. Lettuce and Endive may follow or be followed 
by any crop, except Salsify, Scorzonera, Chicory, or other 
compositae. Spinach may follow or be followed by any crop, 
and may also be sown between rows of Peas. 
Leeks may follow any crop, except Onions, Garlic, Shallots, 
etc. Brussels Sprouts may follow Peas, Beans, Lettuce, 
Potatos, or any but the Cabbage tribe. Borecole and Broccoli 
may follow any crop, except the Cabbage tribe ; they may also 
be planted between the rows of Potatos, but if the Potatos 
are 2 ft. asunder the- Broccoli should be planted between every 
alternate row, and the haulm of the said Potatos regularly 
turned back to keep their neighbours from being crowded out. 
Cabbages cannot be given a better site than that where Onions 
have been cleared ; the ground should not be dug over before 
planting, merely hoeing and raking to clear off all weeds. I 
find they grow much more hardy in firm ground ; they are also 
less likely to bolt in spring. Celery may follow any crop, as 
it is dependent' for its nourishment on the manure supplied in 
the trenches. Lettuce may be sown on the ridges. 
A pocket diaiy is a most useful article for all classes of gar¬ 
deners to possess, and those who have not got one could not do 
better than get a copy of The Gardening World Pocket Diary 
for 1905, as it contains much useful information, including 
dates for sowing the various crops, etc. E. T. E. 
