THE GARDENING WORLD. 
February 18. 1905 
3 40 
occasions, and ultimately removed altogether. The last 
sowing should he made on a south border in the open about 
the middle of April. When large enough, they should be 
pricked out into a similar compost to that recommended above, 
choosing a firm piece of ground on which to make the bed. 
Shade from the sun until they have made a fresh start, after 
which it will not be required. 
Planting Out,—Any ordinary garden soil will suit Celery, 
provided it is not too heavy, as it will have to depend for its 
nourishment on the manure supplied in the trenches, which 
manure should be of the best. The driest portion of the 
garden should be selected for the winter crop, as Celery is 
liable to rot in close retentive soils in winter. The trenches 
should be got ready as early as possible ; about Id in. of soil 
should be taken out, and then about 6 in. of manure put in. 
If the sub-soil is good this may be dug down; if not, about 
3 in. of the best soil should be put on to plant in. After 
planting thoroughly, water in, and on no account allow them 
to suffer for want of moisture, as this is one of the secrets 
of success, as Celery should never be allowed to become dry or 
receive a check of any kind while in active growth. Occasional 
applications of liquid manure should also be given up to the 
time of the first earthing. The best way to apply this is to 
put it on about 3 or 4 p.m., giving a second doing with clean 
water about a couple of hours later. When the plants have 
attained a good size and the heart is well up. they should 
receive the first earthing, first removing all suckers and the 
smaller of the outside leaves, working in a little lime and soot 
with the soil, which should be placed lightly around them, 
repeating this operation about every three weeks. The earth 
should never be placed above the heart of the plant until the 
final earthing up. An occasional dusting overhead (when the 
leaves are moist) with soot, or soot and lime will also help to 
check the ravages of the Celery fly. Elruge. 
Centropogon lucyanus. 
This winter-flowering plant is just now at its best. The 
lovely rose-coloured flowers show up well, and its lasting 
qualities make It one of the best winter-flowering plants we 
have. It is quite easy of culture. Any little shoot will strike, 
but they are best taken oft with a heel, as they root more 
freely. They like a nice light soil, one part loam, one of peat, 
and one of good leaf-soil, with a good dash of sand to make 
it nice and porous. The plants are best kept in a warm house 
in the spring, but as the summer advances they will do in a 
cooler temperature—a spent hotbed suits them well—where 
they should be slightly plunged and shaded for two or three 
hours during the hottest part of the day. Being of a moisture- 
lcving nature they should be watered and sprayed over early 
ie, the afternoon, then the growth will be quick and clean. To 
get nice bushy plants they should be stopped about twice 
during the summer, and through August and September the 
plants should be gradually hardened by giving more air and 
srop syringing them. 
By the end of September the plants should be removed to 
their winter quart ers in an intermediate house till they begin to 
show blossoms, when the conservatory will suit them very well. 
As long as the temperature does not drop below 50 deg., and 
the plants are kept on the dry side, they will keep well enough. 
I think it is always best to keep them on the dry side through 
the winter, for if they get a. little too wet, at the root they 
soon begin to go wrong and look miserable ; not only that, 
they stand the cold much better when on the dry side. It is 
not only a nice pot plant, but does finely for a basket. Cut¬ 
tings struck eveiy spring are the best for pots, whereas the 
old plants can be used for baskets. After they have done 
flowering cut them hard back and allow them to get a little 
start before doing them up in baskets ; two or three plants 
may be put together according to size. In growing them this 
way they should be allowed to hang naturally over the sides, 
but in pots they require a little support, which should be done 
as inconspicuously as possible, J. 0. 
The Cultivation of Freesias. 
These sweet-scented and decorative bulbs are not at all 
grown to the extent they deserve, more especially as they can 
be grown for winter and spring purposes. They are so easily 
grown that anyone acquainted with the growing of Roman 
Hyacinths or Narcissus or other bulbs in pots is sure to meet 
with success in the case of Freesias, their sweet scent and 
easy culture commending them alike to the amateur who can 
grow liis dozens, and to the professional who can order his hun¬ 
dreds or thousands. 
We are now cutting spikes from an early batch potted in 
August, and find them very useful and acceptable where sweet- 
scented flowers are always more or less in demand. 
I like to grow from a dozen to fourteen in a 6-in. pot, and 
advocate placing the bulbs quite 2 in. below the soil. This 
deep planting does away with the plunging in leaf-soil or cocoa- 
nut fibre, as usually recommended, which is frequently left on 
a few days too long, and the young growth is much weakened 
in consequence, if the pots are placed in frames facing the 
north and heavily shaded until growth appears, sturdy plants 
will be the result. Give light and plenty of air on all favour¬ 
able occasions, and as the plants strengthen and improve, a 
batch of the strongest may be moved into a cool greenhouse as 
near the glass as possible. Staking the plants should be early 
attended to, and for this purpose, when obtainable, nothing 
better can be used than the small, twiggy suckers that spring 
from the root, of old Elm trees. In October, if early flowers 
are required, again move the strongest plants into an inter¬ 
mediate temperature, where in a few weeks they should yield 
a nice supply of bloom. 
Freesias are benefited by occasional waterings of weak 
manure water, and the thorough ripening and harvesting of 
the bulbs are also very important details in the successful 
cultivation of home-grown bulbs, such as Crocuses and Tulips. 
Where these are grown for indoor decoration we think that 
Freesias should be given a place, and if they are, we have no 
doubt their good qualities will find favour with general bulb 
growers. G. Westron. 
Taplow Lodge, Taplow, Bucks. 
Reinwardtia trygyna. 
This beautiful species of Reinwardtia, a near ally of the 
Linums, and at one time classed as a member of the last: 
named genus, was introduced from the East Indies in the 
year 1799. As a winter flowering plant it is undoubtedly 
quite an acquisition and deserving of wider cultivation. Its 
beautiful yellow flowers are produced in great profusion, and 
afford a brilliant display throughout the dull winter months. 
R. tetragyna, another species, similar in habit, produces 
flowers of a rich pale yellow colour, and is an admirable 
accompaniment to the first mentioned. 
Multiplication of stock may be obtained by cuttings inserted 
in a light sandy compost and subject to a good bottom heat 
in the propagating case. The old plants after flowering 
require cutting back, subsequently repotting in a compost con¬ 
sisting of good fibrous loam, leaf soil, peat, and sufficient sand 
to keep the whole porous, afterwards growing on in an inter¬ 
mediate house. Frequent stopping of the shoots will be need¬ 
ful in order to obtain neat compact plants. 
Reinwardtias being subject to the attacks of red spider, the 
atmosphere of the house should be kept well charged with 
moisture, and consequently the frequent use of the syringe 1 
whilst the plants are making their growths will be most 
essential, in order to keep them free from the injurious effects 
of these troublesome pests. 
With well-established plants occasional applications of soot 
water and diluted liquid manure will have a most beneficial 
effect in sustaining them in a healthy and robust condition. 
F. G. T. 
Iris histrioides major is of very robust growth, with largei 
flowers than the type, and as rich in colour. 
