176 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
March 4, 1905. 
Hardy Fruit. 
Strawberries. —-Where spring planting is contemplated lose 
no time in preparing the site, which requires heavily manuring 
and deep digging, and when trenching the ground a layer of 
manure should be placed at the bottom of the second spit as 
well as between the two, allowing the surface to lie roughly 
as possible until planting time, which must be done firmly, 
either setting out the r unn ers in rows 1 ft. apart each way, 
and after first fruiting cutting out every other row, also every 
other plant so that each one is 2 ft. asunder; or plant in rows 
that distance and 1 ft. from plant to plant, and dispensing 
with every other plant as stated above. But. August is the 
best month to plant runners, and then one may expect fruit 
the following summer, but very little is forthcoming the same 
season from spring planting.- Ground should also be prepared 
for the reception of forced plants, although some get a crop of 
Potatos out of the land first, but we like to get out ours 
towards the beginning of May, so that the plants can get hold 
of the soil before very hot weather sets in. Get any sticks, 
weeds, or stones gathered up that may have got carted in with 
the top-dressing of manure on established beds, so that all will 
be in readiness for forking in early next month, which is our 
custom here. 
The Pear maggot is a. horrid pest to get plagued with, and 
where it is in evidence year after year- some means ought to 
be devised tt> get rid of it, as the. tiny fruits drop wholesale 
just when one is priding himself upon what a good set has 
been effected. One way of lessening the enemy, if not en¬ 
tirely eradicating it, is to give a fairly heavy dressing of kainit 
and forking it in, also to keep - the surface soil frequently 
stirred with the hoe during March, as they are supposed 
to secrete themselves under - the soil. Spraying has little 
effect, it seems, on this insect; in fact, no proper cure has yet 
been found as far as I am aware, and the midge or maggot 
appears to attack both early and late varieties. Much can be 
done, too, by collecting all fallen fruits later on and burying 
them in a deep pit and smashing them up with a spade, while 
a sharp eye should be kept just as the flowers begin to expand, 
when probably many could be caught by hand and killed. 
Seasonable Remarks. — Since my last calendar appeared 
there has been a change 1 in the. weather, and, it is to be hoped, 
will continue for a few weeks now - , which wall retard the blos¬ 
som, all excepting Apples being quite forward enough for the 
date. On the other hand, the -sharp weather may find the 
birds molesting the fruit-buds, especially Gooseberries and 
Plums ; therefore a watch must be kept for these depredators, 
and means devised to ward them off, which is easy enough done 
with Plums against walls, a net keeping them at bay, but more 
awkward with standard and pyramid trees. Should they 
trouble these much it rvould be well to shoot them, using half¬ 
charges for the purpose, and avoid shooting among the 
branches as much as possible. Gooseberries were too- advanced 
in growth to use an insecticide here more than a fortnight 
since, but luckily up to the present not a bud lias been meddled 
with. Should they drop on them in more backward localities 
stretch a. network of black thread among the bushes, which will 
generally frighten them away after coming in contact with it 
a few times. 
In many parts of the country they are crying out for water, 
and the rainfall generally has been very light since 1 the new 
year came in, this reminding one how - apt fruit trees planted 
against walls are to suffer from drought in the early 
spring months, especially Apricots and Peaches, which are 
prone to drop their buds. Many gardeners make it a rule to 
give these trees during the winter months one, if not two, 
thorough good waterings whatever 1 the weather may be, and 
it is a. practice worthy of being carried out more often than 
it is, notably on light, porous soils. Both these fruits promise 
v el I, and must now r be afforded protection, details of which 
appealed a fortnight since. Some aver that apricot flowers 
suffer from frost if not expanded, but it must surely be excep¬ 
tionally severe to do this; at any rate, few think of protectin'- 
any tree until the petals begin to unfold and expose the 
stamens and stigma, as well as the pistil, all being sensitive to 
frost or hail. In case of inclement weather and much graffito 
ha.s to be done, clay should be prepared in readiness, the fruit 
room examined, and all marked or decaying specimens used up 
first, as well as those that may be inclined to shrivel. 
Bicton Gardens, Devonshire. James Mayxe. 
Hardy Herbaceous Border. 
Violas.—These charming pi 1 ants have now become very 
popular, and in many gardens are used with great effect for 
many forms of bedding, and few subjects give a better display 
of bright flowers when well cultivated. To see them at their 
best, it is necessary to devote a border entirely to tlreir 1 culture, 
arranging the different varieties in separate batches so that 
the colours harmonise pleasingly, but if one is unable to carry 
out this method they are extremely useful for carpeting or 
planting beneath taller-growing subjects, or for clothing the 
front of the hardy flower borders they can be used with ex¬ 
cellent results. If one intends growing them on a border 
alone, it is necessary to select a suitable position so that all 
the sun and air possible can reach them, as the best flowers 
are thereby produced, and the flowering period is much pro¬ 
longed. Violas are moisture-loving plants, and throughout the 
summer frequent soakings of water at the roots must be given 
to maintain a healthy, free-growing state, and if one wishes 
them to bloom as long as possible the seed-prods must be kept 
pricked off as they a.pprear. Although these plants are preren- 
nial, by far the- best results are obtained by striking cuttings 
annually, and those which were inserted as advised last autumn 
should now be well rooted and ready' for transferring to their 
flowering-quarters. A border facing south or west which has 
been dug and enriched with decayed manure or similar 
material will suit them admirably, and in lifting the prlants 
from the frames with a trowel a good ball of soil should be 
attached. Bake the border down level and finely, and allow 
the plants a distance of 1 ft. apart all ways, taking up and 
planting one variety at the time. Flower-buds will appear in 
all probability as soon as the' plants commence to grow, but 
these should be pricked out to allow them to become ivell estab¬ 
lished. There are now many varieties, but we find the most 
effective for treating in this way are the self colours. 
Hepaticas. — At this season of the year these are, perhaps, 
the most showy of the' bolder or rockery occupiants, but, un¬ 
fortunately, they appear to have become somewhat neglected, 
as one seldom sees a good representative collection, and some 
of the varieties are extremely scarce. They will succeed in 
almost any good garden soil.in a partially shaded piosition, but 
the most impiortant point in their culture is to plant them 
where they are to- remain, as they much resent being disturbed 
after becoming well established. The best display will be 
obtained by planting three or more priants in a group, and 
when these are clothed with sheets of flowers few dwarf sub¬ 
jects are more beautiful. The most showy variety is H. triloba 
caerulea plena, which flowers veiy freely. The two single 
blues are H. h caerulea and H. angulosa, the latter being a pale 
blue flower. H. t. alba i's a. pure white, and has a very fine 
double variety. There are also single and double pink and 
deepi red varieties which all deserve inclusion in the 1 best col¬ 
lections. ' 
Pentstemons. — Cuttings which were inserted last autumn 
should now be well rooted and commencing to make fresh 
leaves. It should be seen that these are kept moist at the 
roots and plenty of air given on fine days, so that they are 
enabled to form healthy, short-jointed growths. Any which 
