216 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
March 18, 1905. 
Notes on Hardy Plants. 
The Aquatic Garden. —Where the conditions are suitable 
or can be made so for this form of gardening, there is no doubt 
that it forms one of the most beautiful and attractive adjuncts 
to the pleasure grounds, and is entirely different from any 
other kind of planting. The presence of water is always a 
desideratum in any garden, and many more beautiful scenes 
might be formed by careful planting than at present exist. 
The amount of labour necessary to maintain an aquatic garden 
after once formed and planted is not large, but the time has 
now come when the various subjects must receive attention. 
The many kinds of reeds and rushes which have been left 
during the winter should now be cut down close to the base, 
and whether done with a knife or shears, care should be taken 
not to injure the young shoots which are now appearing. With 
the Tvplias or Mace-Heeds it is necessary to remove the tops 
with care, or the seeds, if allowed to blow about, will give 
considerable trouble. Any covering which has been given to 
the Nymphaeas or other subjects growing in the water should 
now be removed, as these are commencing to send up their 
young leaves. When planting Water Lilies it frequently 
happens that these are not given a. sufficient depth of water, 
with the result that they cannot develop properly, and there is 
then a possibility of the crowns becoming injured in hard 
weather. Water Lilies are among the most beautiful, and are, 
perhaps, the most admired of all hardy aquatic plants, and it 
is worth while to consider their needs thoroughly before plant¬ 
ing in the permanent positions. From now till the end of next 
month is a suitable time to procure them, and we find that 
with all the better varieties, which are sure to be small pieces 
on arrival, the best plan is to place them in small punnets 
about 3 in. deep in stiff soil, and stand them in a shallow 
stream or pool of water, from which they can be easily re¬ 
moved when they have commenced to root. 
When the young leaves can be seen expanding, the punnets 
can be taken out and placed in larger wicker baskets without 
disturbing the plants. The most suitable soil for placing in 
the baskets is a good stiff clay, and Nymphaeas enjoy nothing 
better. The baskets can then be dropped into the positions 
where they are to remain. Some difference of opinion exists 
as to what are the most suitable depths in which to plant the 
various varieties, but what I mention below we have prac¬ 
tised, and I may say that the results leave nothing to be de¬ 
sired. 
The English species, N. alba and its large var iety plenissima 
will succeed in any depth of water from 3 ft. to 6 ft., and I 
might say here that when planting- N. alba in quantity, the 
roots may be simply secured to a small drain-pipe or other 
article sufficiently heavy to sink them and dropped in where 
they are desired to grow. For all the varieties of Marliacea 
and similar kinds, such as gloriosa, Ellisiana, Hobinsonii, Seig- 
nouretti, etc., at least 3 ft. should be allowed. 
Tuberosa odorata sulphurea, and the variety grandiflo-ra, 
fulva, all the varieties of Laydekerii, caroliiliana, and C. per- 
fecta should be given a depth of fully 2 ft. The smaller forms 
of odorata. and the pygmaeas will be seen to the best advantage 
if covered with 18 in. of water. Water Lilies appear most- 
beautiful when the foliage and flowers lie naturally on the 
surface of the water, and if these are planted in insufficient 
depths, much of their beauty is lost. 
It- is quite a mistake to attempt to cover the surface of the 
lake or pond with the Lilies, and when planting sufficient space 
should be allowed for each variety to have a space of water to 
separate it. 
Gynerium argenteum.— Although this fine plant does not 
require a wet position to succeed, yet it is of great value im¬ 
planting on the margins of streams or ponds, providing the 
water does not lie round the roots in winter, and if a place 
can be found on a sloping bank it will prove an object of much 
beauty. Of this handsome grass- there appear to be two forms 
—an early and a late-flowering variety. The early flowering 
one commences to send up its feathery plumes towards the end 
of summer, and they are then extremely beautiful all through 
the autumn, but the other does not flower until late in autumn, 
and the plumes are consequently destroyed by the rain. When 
procuring this Gynerium, one should therefore see that the 
early flowering form is sent. A. E. Thatcher. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. 
Among the Orchids. 
Miltonia vexillaria. —This species is not so extensively 
cultivated as it was a few years ago, and one misses the 
display made in the exhibitions by the finely cultivated plants 
that, were at one time so plentifully produced. I have no 
doubt, that a. great deal may be attributed to fashion, but 
some of it. is also caused from bad cultivation, or, in other 
words, failure to grow the Mints satisfactorily. It is to be 
regretted that so many of the desirable kinds of Orchids are 
becoming practically unknown in gardens, owing to the fact 
that they do not belong to particular classes of fashionable 
or popular Orchids for the present period. During my 
career I have remembrances of many evolutions of this kind. 
Some, I am afraid, have gone never to return to favour, yet 
how desirable it is to retain a representative specimen of any 
genus in a. collection, if only for the purpose of reference 
for the benefit of science and instruction. I do not think but 
that Miltonias will return to favour. Such free growing, 
abundant blooming, and decorative plants cannot remain long 
in disfavour. 
Cultivators differ in their methods of treatment. Some advo¬ 
cate the system of repotting in September, while others, and 
the majority of growers, prefer to repot the plants early in 
March. I prefer the spring’ annual repotting is undoubtedly 
advisable for Miltonia vexillaria. My reason for advocating 
this method is that in following the usual system of autumn 
potting the plants do not resist fogs and damp in winter so 
well as when left without being disturbed untd the spring; 
and as the plants in either case do not commence rooting as 
a rule before the period when the new pseudo-bulbs make 
their appearance at the base of the newly-developing growth, 
about the month of March, the advantage gained by hold¬ 
ing the potting over until this season is that the new roots at 
once grow away into the new material, and so become well 
established by the time the plants are in flower. 
The most critical period in the cultivation of M. vexillaria is 
usually between the time of the plant passing out of flower 
and its restarting into growth. For at this period, if the 
plants are not carefully watched, they are subject, with the 
least excess of moisture, either at the roots or in the atmo¬ 
sphere, to damp or spot. I have often observed that where 
the old flower scapes have not been' removed by being cut 
away close to the base, sufficient moisture lias collected to 
cause the leaves to damp at the axils, which, if unobserved, 
would probably cause the decay of the pseudo-bulb also. It 
is advisable to keep the plants dry during this season, and 
until the new growths start away. It is really surprising how 
dry these plants can be kept without their suffering any ill 
effects, and I am convinced that if the water-can was less used 
tie should see the plants grown Avitli far greater success than 
is usually the case. Especially is this applicable during the 
dull winter months of the year. AY e endeavour to keep un¬ 
even a temperature as possible of 50 to 60 deg. throughout 
the^ year. For compost use one-third fibrous peat, one-tkir5 
leaf soil, and the remaining portion consisting of choppedl 
sphagnum and rough sand or broken crocks. The pots should 
be only sufficiently large to give the plants a reasonable shift, 
and should be filled to two-thirds their depth with chopped 
Hi aoken roots. The compost should be pressed moderately 
fii m and the surface finished with a layer of chopped green 
sphagnum. AA hen watering, soft rain water must always be 
