THE GARDEN IN 0 WORLD. 
Marcii 25, 1905. 
■ 3.6 
The Stove and Greenhouse. 
Pits and Frames.—In gardens where quantities of bedding- 
plants are grown for a summer display every foot of space in 
these structures will now be required to accommodate the 
plants prior to disposing them in the open. The unpropitious 
weather that has prevailed up to the time of writing has 
delayed their removal from the houses, but with the advent 
of more spring-like conditions no time should be lost in plac¬ 
ing them in frames in order that they may be gradually 
hardened and finally'placed in the open until the time arrives 
for bedding out. All hardy plants still remaining in frames 
should be stood outdoors, and the frames be prepared. Many 
subjects that are not quite hardy may be placed in a sheltered 
spot under a hedge or wall, where some slight protection can 
readily be afforded on frosty nights. Frame-lights quickly 
become coated with dirt through constant covering with mats, 
etc., thus obstructing the light; these must be washed occa¬ 
sionally at this time, both inside and out. A layer of sifted 
coal-ashes should be placed on the bottom, on which to stand 
the plants. Cleanliness in pits and frames is quite as essential 
to the well-being of the occupants as in plant houses, for one 
is as indispensable to a well-ordered garden as the other. 
The Conservatory.— This structure should now be gay with 
various forced plants and shrubs ; indeed, where the necessary 
material and convenience is at command this should be one 
of the brightest periods of the year. To avoid a break in 
the display later on many plants may be retarded by keeping 
them under a north wall in the open, or in cold orchard 
houses, and every means should be adopted in keeping the 
conservatory cool and well aired on all favourable occasions, 
so that the plants now in flower may last in perfection for 
as long a time as possible. 
Seedling Plants.—These must not be left too long in the 
seed pan or they are liable to damp off. As soon as large 
enough to handle, prick off into other pans or pots, filled with 
sweet new soil, and keep up to the light to ensure sturdy 
growth. Care must be exercised with seedlings of cool house 
subjects, for if placed in heat they germinate quickly, and 
if not removed at once to cooler quarters soon become drawn 
and irreparably damaged. 
Chrysanthemums.—Plants that are intended for providing- 
large blooms will now be established in -3| in. pots, and before 
the roots become at all cramped in these a shift onwards into 
7 in. pots should be given, using a somewhat rougher and 
richer compost than formerly. One consisting of two parts 
fibrous loam, one of leaf-soil, and one of rotten manure, with 
a little wood-ashes, sharp sand, and a sprinkling of soot and 
bone meal will answer well. The plants should be replaced 
in a cold frame and grown on freely, yet sturdily. Attend to - 
placing a neat stake to each. It is not too late to insert 
cuttings of varieties to be. grown as bush plants for cutting 
purposes, and these will quickly become rooted if inserted 
fairly thickly in pots or boxes and placed in a close frame. 
When rcoted, pot off singly, or, better still, plant out in the 
open gariien for lifting in autumn. 
Show Pelargoniums.—• Assuming that these were shaken 
out and repotted a month or so ago, and at once started into 
growth., they will now be fit for a shift into the pots in which 
they are to flower. A rich loamy compost is best for these 
plants, and it should be used lumpy. Incorporate a. sprinkling 
of bone meal and some fertiliser with the soil at this potting. 
As is well known, these plants are susceptible to attacks of 
green aphis, therefore frequent fumigations should be given 
to keep them in check. 
As the growths attain 3 in. in length pinch out the poiut 
to induce them to break back, but the operation must not be 
repeated above twice, unless the plants are required to flower 
late. 
Fuchsias. —If not already done no time should be lost in 
repotting and starting these into growth. A light porous 
soil is essential, and it must not be rammed too firmly. 
Fuchsias are quick growing plants, and require a warm, moist 
temperature of about 55 deg. to (10 deg. in the early stages 
of growth. When the young shoots attain 2 in. in length 
pinch out the points, and continue to do this for a few weeks. 
If wanted to flower at a particular date, eight weeks should 
be allowed from the last stopping. 
Syringe overhead freely twice or thrice daily, and when 
roots are active give copious supplies of water. These plants 
will be much benefited with liberal applications of farmyard 
liquid manure until flowers commence to open. K. 51. 
Hardy Trees and Shrubs. 
Bedding Shrubs for Winter Effect.—The time of year has 
now arrived when those shrubs which are grown in beds for 
the beauty of their coloured stems in winter will have to be 
cut down, and in doing this there are one or two important 
points to be considered. It is well known by all who have 
cultivated shrubs for this purpose that the young wood pro¬ 
duces the brightest colours, and especially is this the case with 
Willows, Dogwoods, Spiraeas, Sambucus, Leycesteria formosa 
and others, and 1 would strongly advise when pruning these to 
cut the stems hard hack to the ground, as much better and 
more satisfactory results are achieved. It often happens that 
these are only partially pruned or cut down half way, but thh 
practice has nothing to. recommend it, and there is seldom any 
beauty in the old wood. This, of course, only applies to those 
varieties of shrubs mentioned above, as there are some which 
can be used for massing with excellent effect which only need 
pruning lightly, and among these should be mentioned Pyrin 
arbutifolia, Hydrangea, paniculata grandiflora, Rubus odoratus. 
Rosa, rugosa, Cot one-aster Simonsii, etc. When these become 
too large, they can be pruned harder, hut until this size i- 
reached only the young wood will need shortening back. When 
the work is completed the beds should be forked over lightly, 
which will give them a neat, appearance,.and also benefit the 
shrubs, for the surface soil will naturally become hardened 
and pasty after working upon it. 
Ulex europaeus Acre pleno -—The double form of the 
common Gorse is one of the most ornamental -of evergreen 
shrubs which flower in the spring months, and it promises 
to be very fine this year. For planting- in large masses to form 
covert it is of great value, and single specimens can also be 
used on large rockwoik or on falls overhanging the water with 
excellent results. When planted in the woodland or other 
parts of the grounds where ground game exists, it is necessary 
to protect it the first year after planting with wire netting, as 
these are particularly fond of all the Ulex tribe, and play sad 
havoc with them if no protection is given. It is not generally 
known that the single and double Gorse can he pruned hard 
down to the ground when the bushes have become too large or 
leggy, as they 7 frequently do after a. few years. This must be 
done immediately after the plants have finished flowering, 
when they will start again into' new growth, but if done at any 
other time they will, in all probability, succumb to the opera¬ 
tion. 
Genista hispanica, the Spanish Gorse, is also a very pleas¬ 
ing shrub, but of quite dwarf stature, being seldom more 
than IS in. in height. Where a low-growing subject .is desired 
for bedding, it is of much value, having a neat, Compact habit, j 
and is very beautiful when completely covered with its bright 
yellow flowers. This can also be transplanted with safety, 
which is not the case with the other varieties. An interesting 
form of the common Gorse is E. europaeus strictus or pyra- 
midalis, called the Irish Gorse, which is of close, upright habit, 
but apart from this peculiarity, it. has little to recommend it. 
This family of shrubs is a particularly valuable one for plant- 
