March 25, 1905, 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
937 
Jug on poor, stony soils, as they succeed well on dry banks 
and in many positions where others would prove a failure. 
The Japanese Wine-Berry.—During tlie last few years 
many new forms of small fruits have been introduced, but for 
^rowing in the pleasure grounds or for its fruit this is quite 
one of the best. When grown in a mass it is very effective at 
any season of the year, as the foliage in summer, which is 
green above and silvery beneath when stirred gently by the 
wind, is very beautiful. In the autumn it carries large quanti¬ 
ties of bright red fruits which are extremely palatable, either 
eaten in a raw state, or made into a preserve. The bare stems 
in winter, which gracefully droop over, are a pleasing red in 
colour, and when seen in a mass are very effective. Now is 
t he best time for planting, and the ground should be 
thoroughly worked beforehand and well enriched by adding 
some decayed cow manure. The old canes which fruited lasr 
year should be removed by cutting out close to the ground, and 
this must be done annually. When this Rufous is better 
known, I am sure it will be much appreciated. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. A. E. Thatcher. 
Fruit Under Glass. 
Strawberries.— Leader is a good variety to start under 
glass at this date, but the cooler the plants are brought on the 
better the results, that is until the berries are beginning to 
swell away, when the usual treatment may be followed. About 
the middle of March we start a good batch of this in an un¬ 
heated Peach house, where they remain until they are ripe, 
and very fine fruits are obtained in this way, the flavour being 
far better than those ripened with the aid of fire-heat. Con¬ 
tinue to replace plants cleared of ripe fruits, and introduce 
fresh batches eveiy few weeks or as often as occasion demand-, 
but avoid too much heat and moisture until the flowers a:e 
properly set, or many will fail to swell, or if they do, deformed 
fruit will be the result. Do not neglect the support of swell¬ 
ing berries in good time, and supply the plants with manurial 
aid whenever water is necessary; weak doses often are much 
better than strong ones at stated times of once or twice a 
week. This must be discontinued when colouring commences. 
Where these are brought on in vineries, the plants should be 
well syringed twice a day unless wet or very dull, when the 
afternoon routine may go by default, and examine them two 
oi' three times daily as to water at the root. 
Peaches. — The shoots in the early house will require heeling 
in, as it may be termed ; that is, tying with raffia in the direc¬ 
tion it is wished the shoot should take, attending to the 
stronger first and pinching any that are extra strong ; also the 
fruiting wood that may have reached its allotted space at the 
fifth or sixth leaf. See that no more shoots are tied in than 
there is space for, and it is now that much can be done to 
relieve the knife later on in removing unnecessary shoots. 
Thinning of the fruit requires frequent attention so that the 
tree is not over taxed, but a few in excess of the crop may be 
left until the stoning is finished, and until that has taken place 
a night temperature of 35 deg. or one or two less will be 
safest, especially during cold nights, the day temperature with 
sun heat ranging from 75 to 80 deg. Well syringe the foliage 
now the days are longer and the sun more powerful, and apply 
root waterings every trwo or three weeks according to< the com¬ 
position of the border, and trees carrying good crops should 
be assisted with' manure-water from the cowyard or stable, 
diluting it to pale ale colour. 
Succession Peaches.- —Keep the thinning out of the shoots 
and surplus fruits well in hand, as the latest trees will soon 
demand attention. Directions as to disbudding were given 
early in the year, but as it is such an important item in the 
culture of the Peach one may be excused for dwelling' upon 
it. L sually one shoot nearest the base of last year’s fruiting- 
wood is enough to leave on one shoot; if of extra length, say 
20 in. or so, an extra one about midway, all on the upper side 
of the branch may be left, which with the leading shoot above 
will be sufficient for the tree’s extension. The rout,, , 
may be followed here as in the case of tlx- earli< bom, 
regards syringing, watering, and temperature, excep 
latter may be a few degrees lower by day, and night . , ||. 
If it is necessary to retard thei fruit as lat* as po 1 
lull ventilation in suitable weather, and only actually clo 
the structures during cold or frosty nights. 
Early Grapes, whether in pots or borders, will require fre¬ 
quent manurial waterings to fetch up the normal size of ben v, 
and a rich top-dressing will assist the former, while for Vine- 
growing in borders, a good mulch of fresh horse dropping.-, ;md 
the goodness washed in, will assist Vines carrying heavy crop-. 
This should be put on as soon as the thinning of the berries 
is finished. Much attention is usually required during Match 
and April months in the ventilating of the structures; sudden 
outbursts of sunshine, or on the other hand, storms of wind and 
rain, do a deal of injury if the least neglect is allowed. Grapes 
taking their last swelling should have a night temperature of 
Go deg., while those that are stoning may be 5 deg. less, 
advancing to 82 deg. or thereabouts with sun respectivelv. 
Muscat Grapes in flower should either be touched over with 
a camel-hair brush, the hand drawn lightly down the bunch or 
the rods gently tapped twice from 10 a.ni. to 1 p.m., and the 
interior of the house kept dry up to the last-mentioned hour. 
A temperature of 65 deg. at night is usually warm enough for 
these while in flower, and after a set has been secured, give 
the border a watering warmed to 75 or 80 deg. Latest Vines, 
especially if old, should be well syringed twice daily, wetting 
eveiy part, and the border watered, if not done when closed 
early in the mouth. As late Hamburghs show signs of start¬ 
ing into growth, close the house and treat as for late-keepimr 
grapes. James Mayne. 
Bicton Gardens, Devonshire. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
How much we are dependent on the state of the weather in 
all kinds of outside operations in relation to the culture of 
vegetables has been fully demonstrated during the first half 
of the present month. The rainfall has been excessively 
heavy here, consequently on our heavy land much work that 
we had hoped to accomplish has been entirely suspended until 
more favourable conditions prevail. However, much can and 
should be done by forwarding the various crops under glass 
and indeed doing everything by way of preparation under 
cover, so that as little hindrance as possible may occur when 
seed sowing and planting can be commenced in the open, as 
one’s time will then be fully occupied. Nothing will be gained 
by attempting to work the soil when in an unsuitable state; 
far better to wait and lose no opportunity on the first occasion. 
Broad Bians.— The earliest sowings of these, which were 
made in boxes, should be now thoroughly hardened and 
planted in their permanent quarters at the earliest possible 
moment. I prefer planting these in double lines, from 8 in. 
to 10 in. apart, allowing from 3 ft. to J ft. between the rows. 
Plant with a garden trowel, and make very firm. The work is 
much more favourably performed by using thin boards to 
walk on, and where slugs abound apply a surface dressing of 
finely-sifted cinder ashes, a sure and certain remedy, as in 
some seasons these do a considerable amount of damage to 
the young growths. Plants which are being grown in 8 in. 
or 10 in. pots for early picking should be placed on shelves 
in quite a cool house near the glass, and neatly supported 
with stakes, affording them all the air possible. As soon 
as sufficient flowers are discernible, pinch out the points of 
the growth, remove all side shoots, and give a final dressing 
of rich soil. 
Turnips. — Sow a small quantity of Early Milan on a warm 
border on ground of a tine tilth : also another sowing in cool 
frames of Carter’s Forcing, a variety of great merit. 
Celery. — Continue to prick out the early sowings imme¬ 
diately the second leaf shows, into boxes 3 in. apart, using 
