•238 
the gardening world 
March 25, 1905. 
a light sandy compost, not too rich. Grow on in a tempera¬ 
ture of about 50 deg., and never allow the young seedlings to 
suiier for want of water, or to suffer a check in any way, 
or, in all probability, many will prematurely run to seed. 
One more small sowing may yet be made in gentle heat. 
Cauliflowers. —Autumn-sown plants, which have been 
wintered in cold frames, ought now to be planted on the first 
favourable occasion. Choose a sheltered and warm site for 
the earliest batch, lift the strongest plants with a good ball, 
and plant firmly with the trowel, allowing a distance of 2 ft. 
from plant to plant, and 2 ft. 6 in. between the rows. If these 
have been thoroughly hardened, any weather we may now rea¬ 
sonably expect Avill not harm them. Walcheren, an old variety, 
is still one of the very best for this purpose. Early Forcing and 
Magnum Bonum are both excellent for planting in portable 
frames on last year’s hotbeds; they will come in first, prior to 
any planted in the open, and are sure to be much appreciated. 
Plants in large pots should now receive a good top-dressing 
of well-decayed cow-manure, and grow on in a cool orchard 
house or pits, giving all the air possible. Make another 
sowing of Early Giant, Autumn Mammoth, and Autumn Giant 
in boxes, and raise in a cold frame. Continue to prick out 
seedlings as these become ready. 
The Herb Border. —This should now be thoroughly looked 
over, any varieties which are likely to become short should 
be parted and propagated, and the whole receive a good sur¬ 
face dressing of sifted ulcl hotbed material. 
Capsicums and Chilies. —By this date these ought to be 
ready for potting off singly into 3 in. pots, and grow on in 
a brisk temperature. 
Tomatos. —Sow suitable varieties for planting in the open. 
These require to be well-grown and large plants, if success is 
to be obtained outside. A stout, sturdy growth should be 
aimed at. 
Spinach. —That which has stood the winter should be 
frequently hoed whenever the ground is in a suitable state, and 
dusted with fresh soot. Make a small sowing on a south 
border. E. Beckett. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. 
Among the Orchids. 
Mexican Laelias. — This section of Laelias retain their 
popularity and are annually becoming more generally cul¬ 
tivated than was the case a few years ago. This is scarcely 
to' be wondered at, considering the season in which the plants 
produce their flowers (from November to February) ; and as 
the winter-flowering Orchids will be the most appreciated in 
the near future, every attention should be given to enable these 
plants to avail themselves of eveiy facility that may be pro¬ 
vided, so that they may thus be enabled to produce flowers in 
the greatest possible) profusion. It. is not often complaints are 
heard about the free-flowering characteristics of the coloured 
varieties of L. anceps; even when grown in an ordinary stove 
they rarely fail to produce satisfactory flowering results. Of 
the albino or white section, of which there are many interest¬ 
ing and desirable varieties, the best undoubtedly is L. anceps 
scliroderiana, L. a. Dawsonii, L. a. alba, L. a. sanderiana, L. a. 
Stella, and L. a. W illiamsii. There are other varieties of equal 
merit to those mentioned, but the above enumeration consists 
of the varieties that are in general commerce and are those 
available to all who desire their culture. 
Cultural Remarks. —There is no doubt, and there cannot be 
tiA o opinions, that it is impossible to flower the white section 
of Laelia anceps in a satisfactory manner without strong and 
ample light, I have frequently met with plants in collections 
where they have grown in the most satisfactory manner pos¬ 
sible, and the plants presenting perfection in the picture of 
health and culture, yet on close observation they have gone 
on producing successive annual growth for a great number of 
years without a sign of a flower-scape ever having been pro¬ 
duced, Even when dealing with newly imported plants, I have 
had occasion to remark the absence of flower-scapes on the 
imported pseudo-bulbs. 
I have no doubt that the cause of this failure to produce 
flowers in both instances may be attributed to the same cause 
—insufficiency of light to enable the bulbs to properly mature 
while in various stages of development. I consider that where 
eveiy facility is provided for sufficient ventilation, and a house 
or small corridor provided for the sole cultivation of the species 
of Mexican Laelias, no shading whatever is necessary. “Where 
they have to be cultivated in a house with Cattleyas, for in¬ 
stance, or in an ordinary stove, they should be placed at the 
brightest position in the house. If possible, afford them a 
light where the roof blinds usually shading this portion of the 
house may be dispensed with, and if it becomes necessary to 
protect the plants from scorching of the foliage, a thin scrum, 
sufficient only to break the burning rays of the sun, should be 
substituted. The repotting or annual top-dressing should be 
done about the present season—that is, when the new roots 
begin to make their appearance, and the young growths are 
being emitted. 
I find a compost of equal portions of fibrous peat, chopped 
sphagnum moss and partly decayed leaves intermixed with 
rough sand or broken potsherds suitable. The compost should 
be pressed moderately firm, and the surface covered with a 
layer of chopped sphagnum. Water the plants, thoroughly 
wetting the compost. The plants should then be placed in 
their growing quarters, where a temperature of about 60 to 
65 deg. may be afforded as a night temperature. At first onlv 
sufficient moisture need be given to keep the plants in a plump 
state, and the moss in a growing condition. With advancing 
growth and more favourable outside conditions, frequently 
syringing overhead and ample ventilation are necessary, but 
care must be taken to avoid direct draughts coming in contact 
with the plants. The above remarks apply to L. albida, L. 
autumnalis, L. gouldiana, and others .of the Mexican species. 
H. J. Chapman. 
Brugmansias. 
These plants are not very often seen in our greenhouses, 
yet they are well worth a place. They have a noble appear¬ 
ance when in leaf, and are veiy ornamental when in flower. 
They are free and vigorous in habit, and my opinion is that 
they are wanted, as formally trained plants are often too 
numerous. They are well suited for pot-plants or for planting 
out. When the plants are in good health the leaves are about 
a foot in length and 6 in. in width, of a. beautiful green colour, 
and showing a drooping tendency. The flowers are true 
trumpet-shaped, about a foot in length, and of various colours. 
B. suaveolens, single white; B. Knighti, double white; and B. 
sanguinea, scarlet, orange, and green, all hang down and have 
a grand appearance. Although the flowers do not remain fresh 
long after they are cut, they are very effective when hanging 
from the plant. 
By a little attention they may be had in bloom three times 
during the year. As soon as they have flowered, cut the shouts 
down close to the old wood, and allow the young wood to grow 
up. This will flower in a few' months, and when they are re¬ 
moved in the same way others will take their place. Being 
soft-wooded, they grow rapidly, and if not treated as stated 
they will soon become too> large. Another way I treat them is 
to cut down half of the shoots, and leave the other half, which 
can be cut down-when the young growth has made about half 
its length. This plan prevents the plants from ever having a 
bare appearance, and also secures a greater succession of 
bloom. They may be raised from seed, and cuttings root very 
freely. Like all quick-growing plants, it pays to give them 
a soil of good loam mixed with sand and charcoal. Only clear 
water should be given when the wood is being made, but as. 
soon as the buds appear liquid manure may be supplied. This 
renders the flowers larger and more fully developed. 
W. J. Welch. 
