280 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
April 8, 1905. 
The Stove and Greenhouse. 
Winter-flowering Stove Plants.— The propagation of the 
required number of these for next winter’s display should now 
be engaging attention. Cuttings of the young wood inserted 
in light sandy soil and plunged in the propagating bed at this 
time will soon take root,, and when sufficiently well rooted 
they should be potted off singly and grown on freely in a light 
position in a warni house or pit. It is essential that these be 
grown on quickly, yet sturdily, in order that a strong plant 
may be built up before excessively hot weather sets in. When 
well established they will thrive best in cool pits or frames, 
for in such structures the growth made will be matured and 
not sappy, thus ensuring abundant blossom in winter. 
A few really gocd winter-flowering stove plants are Eran- 
themum pulcliellum, Euphorbias, Gardenias, Pentas carnea, 
Centropogon lucyaiius, Thyrsacanthus rutilans, and Begonias 
of the Gloire de Lorraine type. Let it be understood that the 
plants should not be accorded the cool treatment until 
thoroughly established, and then for only about two months in 
the height of summer. 
Decorative Asparagus.—Happily these are now recognised 
as among the most useful plants grown on account of their 
graceful foliage, which has largely superseded Ferns for de¬ 
corative purposes, especially in a cut state. A. Sprengerii, A. 
decumbens, A. deflexus, and A. plumosus nanus are the best 
for pot culture. The plants should now be potted, if not 
already done, in a compost consisting of equal parts loam, peat, 
and leaf-soil, adding a little broken charcoal and sharp sand 
to ensure porosity. When in active growth copious supplies 
of clear water, alternated with farmyard liquid manure, are 
necessary. The stock may be readily increased either by sow¬ 
ing seed, or by division of the crowns at potting-time. The 
neatest trails are to be had when the plants are grown in rather 
small pots, and where such are in demand, repotting of estab¬ 
lished plants need not be performed oftener than once in two 
years. 
Indian Azaleas. — As the plants pass out of flower it is very 
essential that any repotting considered necessary should then 
be done and the plants placed in a genial warmth to' make new 
growth. When this is completed, gradually inure them to 
more airy quarters' preparatory to placing in a sunny position 
in the open. The aim should be to encourage strong new 
shoots to push forth as soon after flowering as possible by close 
attention to watering and overhead syringing. Remove all 
flower-stems by pulling- them in a downward direction, they 
will then part from the shoot without injury to it. In the case 
of plants that do not require repotting the drainage must be' 
examined and made good, afterwards top-dressing with peat 
and sand and making this firm with a rammer. 
Violets. — Various are the methods adopted in the propaga¬ 
tion of Violets for flowering in winter, but I am in favour of 
pulling the old plants apart and bedding the strongest young 
shoots 4 in. apart in frames filled to within a. few inches of 
the glass with sweet sandy soil. Now is the' best time to 
perform the work in order that they quickly form new roots ; 
they may then be lifted carefully and transplanted in open 
quarters for the summer months. It. should be borne in mind 
that the longer the season of growth the better will be the 
plants when the time arrives for lifting in autumn, and the 
more profusely will they blossom. In pulling apart the old 
plants that have done service, the main central crown should 
not be retained, the young ones surrounding it are the best; 
and as these usually have some roots, they quickly re-establish 
themselves in a. close frame. 
One of the chief advantages of this method is that should 
frosts occur late in spring, as now so frequently happens, the 
Violets are safely under cover; at the same time they are 
growing away without any check resulting. The ground the 
plants are to occupy should now be prepared by applying a 
goodly dressing of farmyard manure or chaired garden refuse, 
or both, and digging deeply. A plot or border having a 
northern aspect is best suited for them in summer, for there 
they-receive but little hot sun, and the roots have a cool 
medium to work in which is so conducive to free, healthy 
growth. K. M. 
Fruit Under Glass. 
Melons.— The first batch, according to instructions given u> 
these pages, will be swelling away its fruits; the number of 
which each plant, is to cany must be determined by the grower, 
strength of plant, variety, and mode of culture being taken 
into account. Cordons—that is, those that are confined to a 
single bine—ought not to cany more than four, while six 
should be ample for plants having three bines carried up, 
which is done by many Melon growers. Those growing m 
pots or boxes will take much water during bright days, and 
must be frequently examined, that no check is given while 
the fruits are swelling, and even those set out on prepared berk 
will often require it every alternate day when the weather k 
bright, and either guano-water or farmyard drainings, well 
diluted, applied twice or so. each week while the fruits are 
swelling. Syringe the plants daily to ward oft' red spider and 
thrips, and support the. reserved fruits, which need to. be as near 
one size as possible, with boards or nets in good time, or the 
bine soon gets crippled. Keep surplus growth pinched in its 
early stages, and apply a thin top-dressing of loam, with a 
little bone-meal added as soon a.s the roots appear to the sur¬ 
face. Pollinate succession plants when in flower about mid¬ 
day while the pollen is diy, and sow seed as occasion demands 
to maintain an unbroken supply, three months being necessary 
from the time of sowing until the fruits are ripe. 
Figs, whether growing in pots or prepared borders and 
carrying crops approaching ripeness must have abundance 
of manurial waterings applied up to' the time the fruit begins 
to* ripen, also the syringe forcibly worked up under the foliage, 
but a. drier atmosphere overhead when they reach that stage. 
Keep the shoots well and thinly regulated and tied neatly in 
place, as they quickly snap if allowed to get firm. Succession 
trees, too., require similar treatment as regards root waterings 
and syringing. The night temperature of the former may be 
65 deg., and that of the latter 5 deg. less, the day temperature 
allowed to reach 80 deg. or even 85deg. on warm days, with 
ample ventilation. The latest trees will require almost daily 
attention in the removal of superfluous shoots or the pinching 
of those that may have reached their allotted space. 
Muscat Grapes —The final thinning of the earliest bunches 
should not be hurried until it can be seen which berries are 
going to swell away, although where a good set has been 
secured a free hand is necessary, as healthy Vines receiving 
good culture will produce fine berries. Keep laterals in sub¬ 
jection at the first leaf, and well water inside borders with 
farmyard drainings toned down to' pale ale colour, with clear 
water warmed to 70 deg. at least, and as soon as thinning is 
finished, apply a. moderate mulch of fresh horse droppings. 
Maintain a night temperature of 65 deg., rising to 70 deg. with 
firedreat, or 85 deg. with solar heat, closing about 3 p.m. with 
abundance of atmospheric moisture from the syringe on 
borders, walks, etc., and should red spider or thrips appear, 
sponge at once with warm, soapy water. Fertilise later I ines 
with foreign pollen from the Hamburghs if procurable, using 
a rabbit’s tail or camel-hair brush for the purpose, keeping a 
drier atmosphere up to midday while in bloom. 
Latest Vines.— Attend to the disbudding of shoots as soon 
as it can be noted which have the best bunches, and where 
young canes have been tied horizontally to get a more even 
break, bring the same up in position before there is danger of 
snapping off necessary laterals. Lightly syringe the I ines 
about 8 a.m., and again about 3 p.m-., when close for the day, 
