346 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
April 29, 1905. 
The Flower Garden. 
Succulent Plants. — Under this heading are included many 
plants belonging to various orders, such as Liliaceae, Amaryll- 
ideae, Cactaceae, Ficoideae, etc. Probably the chief plants of 
this kind grown in private gardens are Cotyledons (Echeverias), 
yet it is a common practice in many gardens to use Agaves in 
prominent positions on lawns and at the top and bottom of 
flights of steps, etc. In public gardens of recent years the 
use of succulents generally has been somewhat extended, and 
one or two beds of such form an uncommon feature, and, to 
strangers, always an interesting one. 
A bed of succulents might easily be included in the sub¬ 
tropical garden, as the craze for something new is veiy preva¬ 
lent nowadays, and the plants are easily kept in winter, requir¬ 
ing practically no attention. 
In addition to the smaller Cotyledons, which form an 
admirable edging, the largedea-ved Cotyledon gibbiflora metal- 
lica is a fine dot plant, the leaves being bronze in colour. As 
dot plants some of the Cereus, such as C. senilis and C. rigid- 
issimus, are always interesting, the former, “ The Old Man 
Cactus, having an almost weird-like appearance due to the long 
white hairs with which it is clothed. Small plants of Agave 
americana variegata may also be included with good effect. 
Other dot plants are Sempervivum arboreum, having a rosette 
of green spathulate leaves borne at the end of the main stem , 
and Cotyledon Pachyphytum, better known as Pachyphytum 
bract eosum. 
To form the groundwork the well-known variegated Mesem- 
bryanthemum is useful, likewise bedum hispanicum and the 
peculiar-jointed Kleinia articulata. 
Perhaps the best of all carpeting plants is Lotus peliorhyn- 
claus, a plant of trailing habit having fine awl-like leaves of a 
glaucous grey colour. 
In preparing a bed for succulents it is better as a^ rule to. 
raise the soil towards the centre so 1 as to throw off supei- 
abundant moisture, few of these plants requiring much water. 
In the case of Cereus, the larger Cotyledons, Sempervivums, 
et-c., it is better not to remove the pots, but plunge them also. 
Any cool house or frame from which frost is excluded will 
store the plants in winter, while the propagation of Sedum 
Mesembryanthemum, etc., will be done in the usual way. 
3 B. W. J. 
Among the Orchids. 
Dendrobiums. — The many hybrids and distinct species of 
the deciduous section of Dendrobiums have come more under 
notice again during the past few months, and I have noticed 
several grand displays made by these plants at the recent 
meetings of the Royal Horticultural Society. Not only have 
they represented prominent items in the Orchid specialists' 
groups, but they have also been extensively shown by amateurs 
who cultivate the plants principally for decorative purposes. 
The plants are in no way cumbersome, and with ordinary care 
and attention to the requirements at the different periods of 
growth they will yield an abundance of flowers. This applies 
to such specie® as D. wardianum, D. nobile in its numerous 
varieties, D. findlayanum, and the hybrids of the D. Ains- 
worthii, D. dominianum, D. Sibyl, and D. melanodiscus group 
of varieties; D. Cybele and the numerous other varieties 
obtained from the intercrossing of this section. 
Most of these kinds will have finished flowering and should 
now receive attention for any repotting requirements that may 
be necessary. In repotting’, care must be observed not to 
disturb them more than is absolutely necessary. Where the 
plants are rooted through the material and they have adhered 
to the sides of the pots the latter should be carefully broken, 
then remove as much of the old material as desired. If well 
rooted through the crocks which have been' affording drainage, 
it is not advisable to disturb them, but place the whole into 
a. pot one or two sizes larger, the vacant space being filled in 
with broken crocks to within a couple of inches of the rim of 
the pot. Dendrobiums do. not require a large amount of 
potting material about them ; too great a depth of this is 
likely to be injurious. Top-dressing, where the* plants do not 
require repotting, is desirable, as not only will it add to the 
appearance of the plants, but will also be beneficial to the 
young roots, as they delight to roam into new material. Before 
commencing repotting operations it is desirable to let the old 
compost become dry; the material is more easily picked out 
when in a diy state. Remove carefully as much as is neces¬ 
sary, even down to the drainage; if in a state of decomposi¬ 
tion all dead roots should be cut away, and if thought 
necessary, additional drainage may be given to lessen the 
amount of potting material about the roots of the plants. The 
potting compost should consist, of one-third good fibrous brown 
peat, the remaining portion being made up of chopped 
sphagnum moss and rough silver sand or broken crocks. 
Some of the finest specimens of Dendrobiums I have ever 
seen were cultivated entirely in chopped sphagnum moss and 
sand. I have thus departed from the usual formula of equal 
portions of each. Dendrobiums do- not do> so well as many 
other plants in a leaf-soil compost. The plants where grown 
in the latter are not so easily managed during the resting 
season, shrivelling much more readily and retaining moisture 
too long on the other hand after they have been watered. The 
compost in all cases should be pressed moderately firm about 
the roots of the plant. For the first few weeks after potting, 
and until the young growths have commenced to. send out new 
roots, water must be supplied with great care; but when the 
roots have a firm hold of the new material they will require 
an abundance of moisture until the growths have reached 
maturity. 
With but few exceptions, Dendrobiums require a hot, moist 
atmosphere during the growing season, and an abundance of 
light. The East Indian house or ordinary plant stove suits 
them well. Tire stock of this .section is easily increased In- 
cutting away the unflowered back bulbs, and laying them on a 
bed of sphagnum in a. propagating case, or by cutting into 
lengths of two or three nodes, and inserting in pans of chopped 
sphagnum and sand. They soon emit new growths : and as 
soon as roots appear they should be potted in the usual way. 
H. J. Chapman. 
Hardy Herbaceous Border. 
The extremely cold weather which we have lately expe¬ 
rienced has given many plants an undesired check, so that 
every inducement should be given to let them grow freely, and 
an excellent plan is to keep the soil frequently ^stirred with tire 
Dutch hoe. One often sees this advocated, and no better- 
advice can be given during the time that plants are growing. 
Before using the hoe it is a. good plan to dust the border’s 
between the plants with soot, in showery weather, if possible, 
and then stir it well into the soil. This will act as a stimulant 
and also keep slugs from devouring the tender young shoots. 
The very important, operation of staking will soon need atten¬ 
tion, and it will be. advisable to get these looked out and 
sharpened without delay. This can be done, under cover in 
wet weather, and will then be ready for use when the time 
comes. The varieties of Centaurea rmntana are already of 
good height, and it is better to. support the growths now than 
leave them till rain and wind lay them over the ground. 
Three stakes should be placed round a plant, which will keep 
it in position and no> harm will accrue in rough weather, but 
the practice of bunching up a plant to one stake, has little to 
recommend it. The operation of staking is one which Hug r 
well be given more care and attention than at present, an t ie 
extra trouble is well' repaid when the plants have grown o 
their full height, and, in fact, all through the season. 
