THE GARDENING WORLD 
611 
numerous species of Lily (Lilium), a few species 
of Montbretias and Gladioli with numerous 
varieties, also the Cape Hyacinth (Galtonia can- 
dicans). In the spring of the year there are 
numerous other bulbous plants, such as lrilips. 
Hyacinths, Daffodils, etc. Hardy tuberous plants 
are even less numerous. A fairly good instance 
would be the Alstroemerias. Polygonum Bistorta 
has a tuberous rootstock, but it would be classed as 
a hardy herbaceous plant. Instances of tuberous 
plants ‘that are not hardy would be Dahlias and 
Tuberoses. In this lot only the Alstroemerias 
would be available. Plants that have rhizomes 
would be Irises of the German Plag type 
Solomon’s Seal, Lily of the Valley, St. Bngid 
Anemones. We are doubtful, however, if collec¬ 
tions are ever arranged in schedules for plants 
with tuberous or rhizomatous roots. Of the last- 
named class very few are in bloom at present. 
The Carnation blooms might be taken from plants 
in the open air or under glass, provided the 
schedule does not state which. As a rule, all 
exhibitors of Carnations grow a large number 
of plants in pots for the sake of obtaining fine 
blooms, and these plants are usually grown in 
cool houses. You will be guided, however, by 
the wording of the schedule. Early-flowering 
Chrysanthemums are hardy flowers, but we fear 
they would not be accepted in classes intended for 
hardy herbaceous border plants. Nicotiana 
Sanderae is scarcely an annual, even although in 
this country it may be popularly regarded as an 
annual. For instance, N. affhiis is a perennial, 
provided it is placed under conditions where it 
may outlive the winter. Many things are purely 
perennial which get killed in this country, by 
frost and -are annually raised from seeds. Besides 
the plant we mention we may add Scarlet 
Runners and Nasturtiums. The plant under 
notice is a hybrid, and we are-not yet certain as 
to how schedule makers would class it. Many of 
these things have to be judged from a common- 
sense point of view, and consequently we should 
hesitate to show it in a class for annuals. We 
presume they are meant to be hardy annuals. 
Weed. Killer. 
What is the best liquid or powder to- dress 
garden walks with that are very weedy ? (S. 
Howell. ) 
Most of the liquids intended for killing weeds 
upon walks are made up of the same materials, 
it may be in slightly different proportions in dif¬ 
ferent- cases, but most of them contain sulphuric 
acid in some form or other. All are very 
poisonous, and must be used with very great 
care. Many people object to having these 
poisonous weed-killers on their walks, so that it 
is necessary to be very careful in their use, until 
the liquid soaks into the gravel of the paths. 
It is not within our province to name any special 
weed-killer, because if you go to any reliable 
sundriesman and tell him exactly what you want 
you will get a weed-killer that- is reliable enough, 
and which must be used according to directions. 
Some of them may be used either in the liquid or 
the powder state, and we should advise you to use 
the liquid state, as it would the-sooner effect its 
purpose and soak away in the gravel. Where 
there is danger to animals on the estate by the 
use of weed-killers we should advise you to use 
common salt, sprinkling this on the walk until 
the latter seems as if it had had a shower of snow, 
then get a rosed watering-pot and water the salt 
until °it melts, being careful not to splash the 
salt on the Box edgings or grass. 
Auriculas. 
Could you please tell me of a reliable grower 
of Auriculas, and if I could obtain any Alpine 
varieties to do well from seed? (A. M-., King’s 
Heath.) 
You should apply to Mr. James Douglas, Eden- 
side, Great Bookham, where he has grown 
Auriculas for many:,years. There is just a chance 
that you could obtain good Alpine varieties from 
seeds as well as any other raiser. The named 
varieties in cultivation, however, are the result 
of seed-sowing, and careful selection over -a long 
period of time ; you could get plenty of Alpine 
Auriculas from seed that would be perfectly suit¬ 
able for mere garden decoration, but which might 
not be sufficiently good to gain prizes. You 
should in the first place get seed from a noted 
Auricula grower, and select the very best seed¬ 
lings. Save seeds from these, and again try what 
you can obtain, and if you are earnest in your 
work, and persevering you may be able to raise 
some’ varieties fit to take their place with the 
best on the show boards. This may, however, 
entail years of care before you can get- anything 
different or better than those -already in cultiva¬ 
tion, and if you cannot spare the time for all 
this your best plan would be to buy good varieties 
to begin with. 
Tea Roses for Pots. 
Being a reader of your popular paper, The 
Gardening World, I should feel obliged by your 
informing me in an early issue of your paper the 
names of six most, suitable Tea Roses for outdoor 
pot plants, and size of pots for same. I may say 
the situation is a good one, facing south, three 
miles out- of town, and about 380 feet above sea- 
level. (J. F. Rail.) 
Six good Tea Roses which we think would 
answer your puipose well -are Souvenir d'un Ami, 
pink ; -Catherine Mermet, rosy flesh ; Souvenir de 
S.A. Prince, pure white; Nipheto-s, pure white; 
Mme. Hoste, pale lemon yellow ; and Hon. Edith 
Gifford, white with a flesh-coloured centre. If 
you would like, a little more variety you might 
use Mrs. Edward Mawley, rosy pink, and Mme. 
Cusin, violet rose, but- -the latter is a little more 
tender, although -the blooms are very handsome 
indeed. We presume you would take the plants 
indoors in winter. The -size of the pot entirely 
depends upon the size of the Rosebush. When 
you get them they will no doubt be small, and 
may be potted into six-inch pots, Ajs they grow 
you should simply give them a size larger as they 
require it until they reach the size that you 
desire. The size of pots is entirely a matter for 
the cultivator’s discretion, according to the vigour 
and size of his plants. 
Tree Paeony. 
Could you kindly tell me the cause of this 
plant not growing this season? The root was 
planted last November, but only six leaves have 
come up, quite close to the ground. Should it 
be taken up before winter? Hints as to treat¬ 
ment would oblige. (E. K. Baker.) 
November was rather late to plant a Tree 
Paeony in the open. If you got it in a pot it 
might have been -planted as early at least as Sep¬ 
tember, to let the roots get- partly established 
-before winter. March is another suitable time 
for the planting of Paeonies. They do not like 
disturbance at the roots, and should not be lifted 
in the autumn. Provided the soil is porous to 
allow a-11 superfluous moisture to drain away, the 
plants will become more firmly established the 
longer they are in the ground. Old plants should 
never be lifted unless they are going to be de¬ 
stroyed. Your plant will no doubt recover, pro 
vided the conditions are suitable. It is a good 
sign when the plant commences throwing up 
leaves very near the ground, as such stems may 
yet become strong and prove the mainstay of the 
plant. Towards the end of November you could 
give tire plant a little protection by placing a 
layer of coal ashes over the roots. Cocoanut fibre 
would answer the same, purpose. This covering 
should b-e removed before growth commences in 
spring. Should you have dry weather when the 
plant is making its growth it would be advan¬ 
tageous to water it, in order to encourage 
vigorous growth early in the season. If you pre¬ 
pared the ground properly by trenching or dee-p 
digging before planting the Paeony, all the 
further treatment wou-ld consist in keeping t-he 
surface of the ground open and free from weeds 
by hoeing, and in watering during dry weather. 
If the plant shows signs of blooming in spring, it 
would be worth while protecting the flowers at 
night by means of a covering of tiffany or some 
similar material. 
Portugal Laurels. 
May I ask you whether, in your opinion, I 
should have any difficulty in growing a line of 
July 29, 1905. 
Portugal Laurels down behind, but on the sunny 
side, of a line of Beech trees, rather close to them 
(12 ft. to 15 ft.), but not actually overshadowed 
by them at all? The soil is quite well suited 
to the Laurels. Most important of all, when is 
the Dest time to plant them. 
(“ AItjrraythwaite.”) 
Seeing that soil and situation are good, we see 
no reason why your Portugal Laurels should not 
do well under such suitable conditions. You 
should begin by first of all trenching the ground 
where you intend to plant the Laurels. The best 
soil should be kept on the top, unless it happens to 
be good to the depth of two or three feet. The act 
of trenching would not only improve the soil, but 
give you an opportunity of cutting the larger 
roots of the Beech trees, which may be growing 
in the selected site for the Laurels. The trees 
should answer the purpose of shelter, although 
the Portugal Laurel is really very hardy, so long 
as it is fairly sheltered from the wind. We should 
plant the Laurels during moist weather in April, 
just when they are about to commence growing. 
The roots soon get established in such conditions, 
and the foliage is not so liable to suffer as it 
would do if the Laurels were planted in Novem¬ 
ber or December. The reason is that evergreens 
give off moisture in winter, and if the roots are 
mutilated and unable to supply the required mois¬ 
ture, the foliage suffers as a consequence. As 
soon as they are planted the roots should be well 
settled by copious watering so that growth will 
commence directly. 
Names of Plants. 
(Snuff -Mill). The specimens sent were the 
Golden Rod (-Solidago Virgaurea), a British 
jdant sometimes cultivated in gardens.— 
(J. A. B. R.) 7, Erodium cicutarium ; 8, Lysi- 
machia Nummularia ; 9, Geranium sanguineum 
lancastriense; 10, Campanula Hostdi, which is 
merely a strong growing form of C. rotundifolia. 
the Harebell; 11, Dianthus deltoides, the Maiden 
Pink ; 12, Sedum album brachyphyllum.—(J. R.) 
1, Linaria purpurea; 2, Digitalis ambigua; 3 , 
Veronica virginica; 4, Convolvulus sepium pink 
var. ; 5, Sedum reflexum; 6, Campanula tur- 
binata.—(R. D. W.) 1, -Spiraea discolor; 2, 
Spiraea lindleyana; 3 , Veronica Traversii; 4, 
Pyrus Aria; 5, Lonicera japonica.—(A. E. M.) 
1, Galega officinalis ; 2, Phlox pa-niculata var. ; 
3 , Fuchsia maerostemma ; 4, Rubus phoenico- 
lasius; 5, Hedera Helix palmat-a; 6, Hedera 
Helix roegneriana.—(T. Jamieson) 1, Spiraea 
palmata ; 2 , Campanula, persicifolia calycanthema 
alba; 3, Lyclmis coronaria; 4, Lathyrus lati- 
folius; 5, ‘ Stachvs grandiflora; 6, Stachys 
orientalis.—(C. L.) 1, Cypripedium ehaniber- 
lainianum ; 2 , Cattleya gaskelliana; 3, Oncidium 
flexuosum; 4, Pavet-ta borb-onica; 5, Aralia 
elegantissima.—(J. J. L.) 1, N-ephro-lepis da-v-al- 
lioides furcans; 2 , Davallia hirta cristata; o. 
Litobrochia ves-pertilionis; 4, Todea barbara; 
5 , Pt-eris Childsii; 6. Pteris cretica- albo-linea-ta. 
— (F. R.) 1, Spiraea japonica bumalda; 2 , Vero¬ 
nica pinguifolia ; 3, Hippopliae rhamnoides ; 4, 
Elaeagnus pungens variegata.—•(Murraythwaa.te) 
The woolly Composite is Hie-raeium villosum ; 
the pink flower is Prunella grandiflora; the plant 
without flowers is Saxifraga aizoides. (J. -Sharp) 
1, Nepeta- Mussini teucrifolia; 2, Stachys 
Betonica alba; 3 , Geranium sanguineum; 4, 
Sedum sarmentosum carneum variegatumi; 5, 
Campanula isophvlla ; 6, Campanula fragilis ; /, 
Solanum jasminoides. 
Henry Eckford Testimonial. —The contri¬ 
butions to this fund up to the evening of 
Saturday, July 15th, are as follows Pre¬ 
viously acknowledged, £42 4s. 9d. ; Mr. W. 
Henderson, Is. ; Messrs. Hurst and Son, 
63s. ; Mrs. A. Malcolm, 2s. 6d. ; Mr. H. M. 
Pollett, Is. 
* * * 
Extension of the Fruit-growing Industry. 
_Near .King’s Lynn 120 acres in the heart of 
the fruit-growing district have been lately sold 
by auction at the rate of £100 per acre. 
industry is being grea% extended in West 
Norfolk and South Lincolnshire. 
