616 
The Flower Garden. 
Layering Carnations.— Preparations should 
now be made for layering Carnations at an 
early date. The operation in itself is simple, 
and generally successful, providing an average 
amount of care is taken throughout. A quan¬ 
tity of finely-sifted soil mixed with leaf mould 
and sand in about equal proportions should 
be prepared. If the soil in which the plants 
are growing is of a light nature, prone to dry 
quickly on the 1 surface, then an inch or more 
of this should he removed just round the posi¬ 
tion on which the layers will be placed. The 
object is to get the layers well down, where 
there is less likelihood of their becoming dry. 
A quantity of the prepared compost should 
replace' that removed. Select side growths 
of medium strength, situated as close to the 
ground level as possible, these being more 
easily got down. With a sharp knife remove 
the lower leaves of the shoot until three or 
four joints are exposed, then insert the knife 
just below the last exposed joint, and in an 
upward direction draw the knife through the 
centre of the shoot to a point rather more 
than half-way to the next joint. Bend the 
point of the shoot gently towards the parent 
plant, so as to open the incision, and press 
carefully into the soil. Then with a short 
peg made of thin wire, about 4 in. long, 
with a hooked end, fix the layer in position, 
inserting the peg so that the hook will catch 
just behind the split part. Pegs may also be 
made of twigs of Birch, etc. When a suffi¬ 
cient number of layers have been put down 
to each plant (generally about three), then 
add more of the compost all round the shoots. 
A thorough watering should be given when- 
finished, and this should be attended to until 
the layers are well rooted. The novice may 
at first experience some little difficulty in 
performing this operation to his satisfaction, 
but after attempting one or two layers he, 
will quickly grasp the idea and obtain much 
enjoyment from the work, as well as being 
able to increase his stock of plants. Some 
growers allow the layers to remain as put 
down until spring, transplanting in, March ; 
others lift in the latter end of September 
and early October, and plant close together 
in lines in a sheltered, somewhat dry posi¬ 
tion, removing to flowering quarters in, 
spring. Damp is the great enemy of Carna¬ 
tions, and a good plan is to put up.the layers 
when rooted into small pots, and winter them 
in a- cold frame or unheated greenhouse. In 
the latter case avoid watering through winter, 
as the plants may remain practically dry 
until showing signs of growth in spring. 
B. W. J. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
Winter Greens, which are generally charac¬ 
terised as Brussels Sprouts. Borecoles., Bi’oc- 
colis, Savoys, etc., are now in the main well 
established, and where these have been 
planted between other growing crops, such 
as Peas, Broad Beans, and early. Potatos, 
they should, immediately the nursing crops 
are cleared, have the ground nicely, broken 
up to the depth of from 3 in. to 4 in. with 
the digging fork, making it as fine as pos¬ 
THB GARDENING WORLD . 
sible, and filling up any vacancies which may 
have occurred from the store beds. Where 
the ground is inclined to be poor, give a slight 
dressing of an approved patent vegetable 
m anure. 
My attention has been called from many 
sources in various parts of the country to the 
fact that a very large percentage of the plants 
have gone blind, and especially does this 
relate to Cauliflowers and Savoys. As many 
as 85 per cent, of the latter are so affected in 
this way. My advice is to all who are in such 
an unfortunate position to prepare a piece of 
land on a southern site, if possible, well 
manure, deeply dig, and procure some healthy 
plants of a quick-maturing kind, planting 
them 18 in. apart all ways,; and by giving a, 
little extra attention as to watering and con¬ 
stant hoeing, these will not fail even at so 
late a date to produce small, compact heads 
so much appreciated for table use. Make one 
more planting of late-sown autumn or Early 
Giant Cauliflower on a south border. These 
will make excellent plants for lifting later 
on and planting in cold frames, which will 
give a supply up till Christmas. 
Spinach. —This excellent vegetable is in 
much - request in most establishments all 
through the autumn, winter, and spring, and 
to ensure regular pickings small beds should 
be sown, at intervals of about a fortnight, for 
the next three months, and in different parts 
of the garden. So much depends on the sea¬ 
sons that no definite date can possibly be 
given with any amount of safety for sowing 
the seed. 
Lettuce. —Both Cabbage and Cos varieties 
should be sown in small quantities about 
every ten days for the next- two months. The 
best Cos variety I am acquainted with for 
sowing now and onwards is a true strain of 
Hick’s Hardy White. E. Beckett. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. 
Fruit Garden. 
Indoor 
Pot Fruit Trees.—As these are relieved of 
their fruit, give the trees a thorough 
syringing to cleanse the foliage, and remove 
them outside, partially plunging the pots, 
and where Ajiples and Pears are grown these 
may be stood out similarly if there is no 
hurry to forward the fruit. Keep the shoots 
pinched to form fruit buds for next year’s 
crop, and see neither tree lacks sufficient 
moisture at the root. These trees should be 
well syringed twice daily during this tropical 
weather, especially Cherries, so prone- to red 
spider. This part-removal to outside quar¬ 
ters will allow those remaining indoors more- 
space, and a better chance of ripening up 
such fruits as Plums. These latter should 
be daily syringed until near the ripening point 
with clear water only, fully ventilating early 
in the day, with a less supply after 5 p.m. 
Vineries. —Keep all Vines that are clear 
of fruit syringed morning and evening, the 
lights fully open top and bottom, the sub- 
laterals restricted, and the borders uniformly 
moist. Muscats started early in March will 
be colouring fast now, and should be allowed 
ample ventilation by day, with a chink of 
air front and back throughout the night, re- 
August 5, 1905. 
during the amount towards 5 p.m., and 
isponging with soapy water any leaves in¬ 
fested with tlirip or red spider ; and keep 
plenty of moisture sprinkled about the bor¬ 
der, etc., during bright weather, of which we 
are having a fair share this summer. Al¬ 
though with a thick mulch borders do not 
dry up so quickly as before, it is necessary 
to test them every few weeks, and apply a 
thorough watering before they become too 
dry, while those having outside borders must 
not be overlooked, as the weather has been! 
very drying of late, the rainfall being very 
light. Black Hamburglis brought along 
quietly will be approaching ripeness, and if 
convenient, any plants that may be still in 
the structure should be removed, and a con¬ 
stant circulation of air allowed at all times, 
necessarily less during the night or drill and 
wet days-. The latest varieties of Grapes will 
be colouring, and will require more air to 
finish them, so do not hurry them by closing 
too- early, the borders of these receiving like 
attention as before stated. 
Outdoor. 
Strawberries. —Hew Plantations should be 
carried out as soon as the layers become fit, 
although at the time of -writing the ground 
is exceptionally dry, but if the plants are 
well watered in, and duly attended to until 
established, a derided gain will be evident 
if a delay of only a week or two by waiting 
for rain was decided on. If runners have to 
be purchased, order at once, and do not omit 
that excellent late variety Givon’s Late Pro¬ 
lific, the fruit having been very fine with us 
this season, and travels well. When treated 
as annuals a foot apart will suffice, or if 
as a permanent bed, every other plant, as well 
as every other row, need grubbing out next 
summer immediately the fruit has been 
cleared, and R. Sovereign, being such a 
strong grower, should be given another 6 in. 
or 9 in. each way. Plant- firm, treading in 
-with the feet, is a satisfactory method, and 
keep all strings pinched or cut off every other 
week, so that the plants- get every encourage¬ 
ment to grow freely. 
Raspberries in this locality have been good, 
to the first gathered, the dry, scorching 
weather accounting for this, especially where 
the land is light in spite of a heavy mulch, 
and it proves a big job to water these quar¬ 
ters. Lose no time in cutting out the ex¬ 
hausted or, rather, fruiting canes of this 
season as soon as the fruits are got off; this 
will admit of more sun and air to ripen up 
those canes tli,at will supply the crop next 
year ; and at the same time thin out. freely 
where anything approaching crowding is 
apparent. Support autumn-fruiting varieties 
with cord so that the fruit cannot come into 
contact with the ground, which would .be 
spoilt should rain set in towards ripening 
time. Spare nets will he available now, and 
must be put on immediately col.oriring be¬ 
gins, or the crop will hourly diminish. 
Bildding of fruit trees may still be exe¬ 
cuted,' but the sap needs, to be flowing 
freely ere much be done, binding securely wrth 
raffia, and affixing the name with a wired 
label. From the middle of July to that of 
the present month is the best time to tackle 
