August 12, 1905 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
635 
pests. Choose a bright, warm day for 
dipping, so that the excessive moisture may 
become thoroughly dried from the foliage 
before the cool night temperatures are 
reached. 
For those who anticipate forming a collec¬ 
tion of the most desirable and winter-flower¬ 
ing plants, which I would recommend as 
more suitable than any other class of Orchid 
for cultivation by amateurs, a selection of 
varieties suitable for the purpose is ap¬ 
pended:—Cypripedium Cbarlesworthii, C. 
spicerianum, C. insigne, in its varied and 
distinct forms should be procured in quan¬ 
tity ; C. nitens, 0. leeanum, C. Boxallii, C. 
villosum, C. Actaeus, C. Calypso, C. 
arthurianum, the varied forms of C. Hera, 
and nearly the whole of the hybrids having 
C. insigne or C. spicerianum blood used in 
their production. C. fairieanum, now that 
it has become once again introduced to cul¬ 
tivation, will, I have no doubt, become a 
great favourite in the cool growing section 
in the near future, and will be extensively 
used for cross-fertilisation, having proved 
of so much service before it became practi¬ 
cally extinct to cultivation. 
H. J. Chapman. 
The Flower Garden. 
Now that summer flowers are at their best 
some attention should he given to those 
which will afford a display in the cooler days 
of autumn. Chief among these are the hardy 
border Chrysanthemums. There are many 
charming varieties of these nowadays, and 
varieties may be had in flower from the 
middle of August right away into November 
or later, according to the season. 
Those who already possess these border 
“ Mums ” will find it beneficial to apply a 
weekly dose of weak liquid manure, this 
tending to the development of finer flower 
trusses, and a thorough loosening of the sur¬ 
face soil by means of hoeing will check eva¬ 
poration during these drying days, and so 
help to retain the bottom leaves, which often 
turn yellow and drop off during dry weather. 
Many whose gardens may be of limited size, 
but who nevertheless like to have flowers for 
cutting over as long a period as possible, 
will find a selection of border Chrysanthe¬ 
mums very useful. A visit to a neighbour’s 
garden or to some of the public gardens or 
nurseries will reveal many choice varieties. 
I have given the names of many sorts before 
in these columns, but may again mention 
Flora (yellow), Pink Marie Masse, Ralph 
Curtis (creamy white), Crimson Queen, 
Piercy’s Seedling (bronze), and Mytchet 
White, all of which are well known, while 
many newer varieties are now on the market. 
In some places the old plants will survive the 
winter, but the safer plan is to lift after 
flowering arid lay in the roots in a cold 
frame or in boxes, placing the latter in a 
greenhouse from which severe frost is ex¬ 
cluded. In spring abundance of young shoots 
will be thrown up, all of which may be easily 
struck as cuttings, simply inserting in sandy 
soil and keeping close and shaded for a 
week or two, no heat being required. 
Strict attention should be paid to pe^rin ^ 
down Verbenas, Heliotropes, Phlox Drum" 
mondii, etc., for if allowed to grow too loosely 
at this season they often fail to flower satis- 
j.actorily and present an untidy appearance. 
The gardener is always looking ahead, 
and during the present month some con¬ 
sideration must be given to what must be 
propagated for another season. Increased 
quantities of some things may be desired, 
while others may be discarded, and many 
new introductions may be contemplated. In 
any case it is a good thing to see as many 
different gardens as possible, and so note 
new plants and new methods which may be 
introduced to one’s own garden. B. W. J. 
Fruit Garden. 
Outdoors. 
Morello Cherries. —These are fit for 
bottling as well as jam making down west, 
and will be in most places by this date ; they 
also make capital tarts. This fruit will 
hang some time, providing birds and wasps 
can be kept away, but it is a most difficult 
job, we find, in spite of their acidness. In 
gathering for bottling care should be taken 
that the fruits are in about an equal state of 
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___ J 
ripeness, and do not crowd them into 
baskets, but lay thinly on wide shallow boxes 
lined with wood-wool and kitchen paper. 
Any trees cleared should be well washed with 
the syringe or garden engine, as there is 
usually a deal of rubbish about them, and 
should aphis still be present give a dose of 
quassia. 
Apples. —We are obliged to net early 
Apples, such as Irish Peach, Lady Sudeley, 
Langley Pippin, Quarrenden, and one or two 
others if presentable fruit is to be had for 
dessert. All those named are carrying a fair 
crop, while Mr. Gladstone, a nice early fruit, 
has but few. We are using the thinnings of 
cooking varieties in the kitchen pretty freely 
now. 
Pears —Attend to the protection of Jar¬ 
gonelle, Doyenne d’Ete, and Beurre Giffard, 
using all within a day or two after gathering, 
as neither keep fresh long. Few varieties 
here require any thinning Ibis season, and 
by all accounts it is the same in general. 
Apply water to heavily-cropped trees, espe¬ 
cially those occupying wall space, as the 
rainfall has beeh very light the past few 
weeks, giving a fresh mulch where necessary, 
and thoroughly syringe the foliage once or 
twice each week of any trees showing the 
least sign of distress. 
Current Remarks. — We have just gone 
over our grafted fruit trees and removed the 
clay from a few grafts that did not make 
much headway, and cut away the raffia from 
the more forward ones and made all secure 
against wind and birds by tying them to 
the stock as advocated in my calendar for 
July 1st. Continue to wash Peach and Nec¬ 
tarine trees every other night or so while the 
weather remains so tropical — in fact, if all 
wall trees, even on north aspect, could be 
given a bath from the garden engine two or 
three times each week many of them would 
present a much better appearance than they 
do at present. Give stone fruits against 
walls frequent manurial waterings to assist 
the swelling up of the fruit. 
Indoors. 
Peaches. —Do not neglect trees that have 
borne early fruit, and where there is any 
signs of too much wood cut out those that 
have fruited and are not required for exten¬ 
sion, so that those remaining may have the 
full benefit of the sun’s rays that the same 
may get thoroughly ripened by autumn. The 
latest trees will require abundance of manu¬ 
rial waterings at the root to finish off the crop, 
the leaves set aside, and those fruits propped 
up to the sun and light that are inclined 
to hang under the trees when trained on the 
front trellis. Keep the foliage thoroughly 
syringed twice a day up to the time the fruit 
begins to ripen, though an eye must be kept 
on Nectarines as these are apt to crack with 
an exoess of overhead moisture, but under 
such tropical heat red spider quickly gains a 
footing under anything like a parched atmo¬ 
sphere. Give full ventilation by day and a 
fair amount at night as ripening approaches. 
Figs. —Trees ripening their fruit must be 
kept dry overhead or decay is hastened, but 
maintain plenty of moisture in the structure. 
Figs should be fairly ripe before plucking 
from the tree, especially for home use, and 
when packing these soft fruits for a distance 
by rail wrap each one in a large Spinach leaf 
and a little w x ood-wool, separating each fruit 
and only a single layer, choosing shallow 
boxes for the purpose. Give abundance of 
water to pot trees, and well syringe daily 
except, as before stated, ripe fruits are in 
evidence, and if the trees are to be forced 
for an early crop next season remove all 
small fruits, and as soon as cleared of fruit 
prepare the plants for standing outside by 
cutting the roots of any that have taken hold 
of the plunging material, but allow them to 
remain plunged where they are for the 
present. James Mayxe. 
Bicton Gardens, Devonshire. 
The Stove and Greenhouse. 
Cinerarias. —Attend assiduously to pot 
ting on the young plants as they advance in 
growth, as success cannot be achieved if any 
check takes place. Assuming that the plants 
are now well rooted in 60’s they may be 
transferred to 48's or 32's, using a compost 
consisting of two parts flaky leaf-soil to one 
each, of loam and decayed manure, adding 
sufficient, road-grit or sand to insure porosity. 
This is one of those plants that revel in cool 
