August 26, 1SU5 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
681 
A BRIGHT AND EFFECTIVE 
Spring-flowering Bulb. 
(Lac'ienilii tricolor.) 
This spring-flowering bulb should have 
attention at the present moment, either by 
way of inclusion in the “ bulb order” or in the 
annual potting up of stock bulbs. In my 
opinion this little plant should be regarded 
very prominently among spring - flowering- 
bulbs, there being a charming quaintness and 
modesty about the plant when in bloom, yet 
capable of giving a “ splash ” of most effective 
brightness when staged in company with such 
subjects as Mignonette, Pelargoniums, Ciner¬ 
arias, tfec. The beautiful tricolour combination 
in the colouring of the bloom spikes (red, 
yellow, and greenish-black, yellow predomi¬ 
nating) which hang liberally over slightly 
mottled foliage, in the form of tubular bells, 
the whole plant being dwarf and compact, 
makes it most desirable for grouping at the 
base of taller plants, being used in boudoir and 
drawing-room plant-baskets, and on conser¬ 
vatory staging. 
The plant requires very simple cultural 
treatment, roughly outlined as an “ annual pot¬ 
ting up,” given light and cool quarters when 
growing and ordinary care in watering ; fumi¬ 
gating, staking, “ potting on,” training, &c., 
are foreign to its requirements. 
A few details with regard to a system of 
“ potting ” and “ after treatment ” may be 
acceptable to the uninitiated. I give them as 
follows :—Pot up the dormant bulbs at the end 
of August or beginning of September, using- 
soil of an ordinary sanely loam two parts, leaf 
mould or old hot-bed manure one part ; if leaf 
mould only be used, a dash of some fertiliser 
may be added and a good sprinkling of silver 
sand. Four and five inch pots are the most 
useful sizes ; larger ones are not so well adapted 
for the positions the plants eventually occupy. 
Give good drainage, with the usual rough leafy 
material between “crocks” and soil. In pot¬ 
ting, fill the pots with soil very loosely to within 
an inch of the top. 
Six or eight bulbs should be placed on the 
surface, then pressed one by one just under the 
soil. When all are pressed under, add more 
soil to within a quarter inch of the top ; then, 
placing one hand over the surface to prevent 
disarrangement of bulbs and soil, give the pot 
a sharp “ bump ” or two on the bench; this will 
settle all down to a sufficient firmness. Hard 
potting should be avoided. Water well with a 
fine rose can and place in a cold frame with 
about 2 inches of coal ashes on top as extra 
weight, to prevent soil and bulbs being lifted, 
as frequently occurs when good root action 
commences. 
As soon as an in c h of growth has been made 
the pots must be removed from under the 
ashes and placed openly in a cold frame or on 
shelves of a cold greenhouse well exposed to 
light. As growth proceeds, an occasional water¬ 
ing with manure water or a sprinkle of some 
good fertiliser will give extra health and bright¬ 
ness to the blooms, and assist the development 
of young bulbs being; formed. 
This capability to increase and mature young 
bulbs yearly soon raises the stock, five or six 
bulbs forming at the base of each old one, the 
majority of the new bulbs flowering the follow¬ 
ing season. A careful “ ripening off ” in a good 
warm position will secure excellent bulbs of 
British production. It should be mentioned 
that the bloom spikes last in good condition on 
the plants for seven or eight weeks, and in a 
cut state they are very durable ; placed in 
specimen glasses with Mignonette and Fern, 
they are very effective in table decorations. 
Herbert Morris. 
Turkey Court, Maidstone. 
A Graceful Orchid. 
(Kpidendrum siamfordiimutn) 
“ 1 am sending you a photograph of Epiden- 
drum stamfordianum, if you think it worthy of 
reproduction. It has been grown here in the 
gardens of .1. J. Neale, Esq., and was received 
from Central America about five years ago.”— 
H. H addon, The Gardens, Lynwood, Park 
Load, Penarth, South Wales. 
[We reproduce the small photograph of the 
plant grown by our correspondent, to give an 
idea of the free-flowering character of this 
Epidendrum. The flowers are very moderate 
in size, but extremely numerous. The species 
differs from most other Epidendrums of this 
type by the panicles of flowers arising from 
the base instead of the top of the pseudobulbs. 
The latter are 9 in. to 12 in. hign when well 
grown. The flowers are yellow, beautifully 
spotted with a lively red, and are also agreeably 
fragrant, like a number of other species belong¬ 
ing to the same genus. A well-grown plant of 
this Epidendrum was one of the most notable 
features in the way of individual Orchids 
exhibited at the Temple Show one year, soon 
after its introduction. It will be seen that the 
plant grown by our correspondent well occupies 
the pot in which it is grown and is well flowered, 
considering the size of it.J 
El’iDEXDRUM STAMFORDIANUM. 
Water-Lilies in Tubs. 
We have had before us and in our midst for 
several years the subject of Strawberry-grow¬ 
ing in barrels; but I think a much more 
interesting novelty would be growing Water- 
lilies and other Nymphaeaceae in tubs. This 
should be a distinct feature in every garden, 
as the beautiful flowers, which may now 
be grown in water, owing to the skilful 
hybridisation of Monsieur Latour Marliac, 
give all that may be desired. Some of the 
more beautiful are marliacea carnea and 
m. rosea ; whilst the sweet-scented nymphaea 
odorata, gigantea, minor, and Exquisita may 
also be referred to. 
These tubs could be placed in the shaded 
portions of the garden, where they will get 
some strong sun at some time of the day'. 
They are a surprise to many when first seen 
with their flowers open on the water, and their 
broad cool green leaves supine and graceful. 
Walter Smyth. 
Salvia .... 
SPLENDENS. 
A grand scarlet flower for winter blooming. 
This splendid winter-flowering scarlet Sal¬ 
via must not be overlooked by those who want 
a winter display with little trouble, for it 
requires far less attention than the Autumn 
Queen and a well-grown specimen will con¬ 
tinue in bloom for many months, and this 
cannot be said for the best Chrysanthemum 
ever raised. Cuttings of the young wood 
strike very readily under glass in sandy soil 
at any time. I start taking them directly the 
display of flower is over, about early March 
(these will soon be beginning to flower), 
taking a few each month until August, when 
the last batch are put in, these forming such 
useful stuff for placing in the centre of a pot 
of Roman Hyacinths, or for small work in 
baskets, etc. The rest of the old plants I do 
not despise, but cutting them nearly to the 
pot rim I keep them slightly drier until 
growth starts, then they are potted on in the 
same way as the cuttings, and make splendid 
specimens of bushy growth for standing in 
large tubs indoors, etc. They withstand gas 
fairly well if stood in for a couple of days 
only at a time, and then given several days’ 
rest. Last autumn my plants began blooming 
in late September, and did not leave off until 
I cut them back in early March. My small 
greenhouse only has an oil stove to exclude 
the sharpest frost. I do not say the flowers 
are as fine as those grown with a bit of warmth, 
but they are bright and cheerful during the 
dull months, and do not mildew if carefully 
watered and not overfed after the end of 
October. During the summer abundance of 
water is required overhead and at the roots ; 
also as the pots get full of roots, liberal feed¬ 
ing with liquid manure is most beneficial. 
Grow as sturdy as possible, and pinch out the 
points of shoots to induce side shoots, also 
do not house until there is absolute fear of 
frost, and then keep on all the air possible. 
Slight shade from hottest sun and frequent 
syringings in summer will lead to luxuriant 
growth. 
For potting soil I use ordinary garden soil 
(of course, the best loam is better when ob¬ 
tainable) mixed with sweet leaf mould, a 
dash of peat, old sweet manure, and a large 
amount of sand. Clean pots, well drained, 
are essential to success, but they may be 
of any size, as tin}- plants in thumbs will put 
forth a few trusses of bloom if there is not 
time, from some cause or other, to pot on into 
larger sizes ; but care and attention in this 
respect and also in supplying water is all 
that is required to assure a grand display. 
Insect pests never trouble the plants with me, 
as I vaporise the house (on account, of Ciner¬ 
arias, etc.) when first housed, and once or 
twice during the winter. I believe red spider 
is troublesome to them when not sufficiently 
watered, but I never have any bother in that 
way, for which I am duly grateful. One more 
hint, and I have done. Do not let the old 
plants flower during summer (they will if 
they can, but it spoils the continuous winter 
show) unless, of course, they are not required 
for the later display. The trusses are grand 
for cutting for vase work. 
Douglas Y. Erlam. 
Portland Lodge, Worthing. 
Descartes had- a small garden where lie- 
spent all the hours not devoted to mental 
labour. 
