698 
THE GARDENING WORLD . 
September 2, 1905. 
Supplementary Replies 
BY OUR READERS 
To Answers in the “ G. W.” Enquire Within. 
Flowers for Autumn Blooming. 
Perhaps “ Thos.Willett ” would like to plant 
some of the following bulbs that will, if got 
in at once, bloom in late October and Novem¬ 
ber, although a month earlier would have been 
better, as then they would bloom in good 
time before the bad weather sets in. A hand- 
light or two put on in bad storms can be so 
easily and quickly removed that the bulbs 
are a good investment: —Colchicum or Mea¬ 
dow Saffron in variety; Crocus speciosus, C. 
asturicus, C. zonatus, C. sativus, and C. 
longiflorus are all fairly cheap, and well worth 
cultivating. The following are rather more 
costly, but very lovely:—C. iridiflorus, C. 
oeliroleucusi, C. hadriaticus, and C. 'cancel- 
latus, and also Stembergia lutea. 
Douglas Y. Erlam. 
Portland Lodge, Worthing. 
Substitute for Crocus. 
I would suggest to “ C. H. Murton ” the free 
use of the lovely blue Snowdrop, Scilla 
sibiriea, at about 2s. 6d. to 3s. 6d. per hun¬ 
dred, and the giant Snowdrop, Galanthus 
Elwesii. For carpeting they look lovely, 
and if the Scillas are planted ten to twelve 
days before the Galanthus they would both 
come into bloom at the same time, otherwise 
similar treatment to Crocus is suitable. May 
I suggest, however, that the bulbs of larger 
flowers be used, and the surface soil hidden 
by a beautiful green carpet all the winter. 
Any of the Daffodils suggested look lovely 
over a carpet of Forget-me-Nots, or pink, 
yellow, and white Tulips do the same ; Keizer 
Kroon Tulips over a bed of double white 
Arabis; mauve, purple, rose, magenta, and 
blush pink Aubrietas all would look lovely 
with suitable contrasting bulbs ; also the 
Arabis and Aubrietia bloom from early 
February right on to bedding-out time, and 
after that sometimes. Such gardening need 
not prove more expensive, as all the carpet¬ 
ing plants can be raised from seed sown 
during the summer (it is not too late yet). 
A pennyworth of good seed will give a dozen 
or so sturdy plants, which will increase in¬ 
definitely in the future. But I would ask 
“ C. H. M.” not to get rid entirely of the 
lovely Crocus. Remember we have ten 
months or so between the blooming of these 
real spring harbingers, unless the autumn ones 
are used. I have seen broad masses of the 
blue and white Grape Hyacinth (Muscari) 
used with grand effect, also that pretty bulb 
Brodiaea uniflora. Douglas V. Erlaji. 
Portland Lodge, Worthing. 
Books of Designs. 
Observing Miss Brickwood’s further corre¬ 
spondence on this subiect, I must acknow¬ 
ledge that it is somewhat remarkable that 
those books should have remained all this 
time so little known to gardeners. I have 
no recollection of ever having seen any of 
them, never even heard their names before. 
All this acknowledgment, too, in the twentieth 
century, when everybody is so enlightened 
and up to date in all matters horticultural— 
but “a la Wee Macgregor.” This shows in 
a somewhat pronounced manner the yalue 
of a suitable advertising medium. Had the 
names of those books but appeared in the 
advertising columns of The Gardening 
World only once or twice, their existence 
would have been known to thousands long ere 
this day. J. C. Peebles. 
The Onion Maggot. 
While still endeavouring to follow out the 
advice given on page 668 of The Gardening 
World with regard to his grubby Onion plot, 
“Constant Reader” might try the effect of 
penning a few ducks or chickens on the in¬ 
fested ground. 
If the plot can be netted directly the bulbs 
are cleared off, and a dozen or so of either 
fowls enclosed, they will dispose of large 
numbers of the grubs. Of course, the surface 
must be lightly forked over at frequent in¬ 
tervals to give the fowls a chance of picking 
up the pests, but with a few weeks of dry 
weather after the crop is removed this method 
is a certain means of clearing off hundreds of 
the grubs. A good dressing of soot and gas- 
lime may with advantage be applied before 
commencing trenching operations, and another 
dressing of soot alone should be given in 
spring and well incorporated with the surface 
soil for a depth of 6 in. or so. 
I have seen this method prove a complete 
success on ground which for years preceding 
was so badly infested that the maggot usually 
made a clean sweep of Onions, by the end of 
July. ' G. F. 
Runner Beans. 
I venture to advise “ J. H.” when he again 
“takes on” Runner Bean culture to try the 
“hill” system of cultivation and to practise 
pinching the lateral shoots which proceed 
from the main bine at the same junction as 
the bloom spikes. I am inclined to think 
that these two points may considerably assist 
“ J. H.” to gain success. 
In my opinion, the usual “ row system of 
cultivation is very liable to lead to over¬ 
crowding of the bine, especially with ama¬ 
teurs, who do not exactly realise at the time 
of planting and staking how rapid and ex¬ 
tensive will be the growth and the amount of 
space they are capable of filling. 
The “ hill ” system does much to prevent 
overcrowding, the tops being unable to get 
intertwined on account of the distance be¬ 
tween the hills. The hills should be about 
5 ft. apart, half a dozen Beans sown at each 
hill, and four 7-ft. stakes placed to each hill 
for training. This system also gives better 
facilities for picking the crop, and naturally 
gives more light and air to the bine and 
blooms, causing good sound growth and free 
setting. The pinching of the lateral shoots 
as mentioned does much to assist the setting 
and swelling of the erop. In preparing the 
hills for the sowing, five or six “spits” of the 
soil should be removed, placing the soil by 
the side of the hole thus formed ; four or 
five dung-forks of manure should then be 
dug in, and about half of the soil first removed 
replaced. Dibble the Beans in at a depth of 
about l-g in. It is not advisable to give too 
mueh water, as it is liable to encourage too 
sappy a growth. Herbert Morris. 
Turkey Court, Maidstone. 
-♦- 
Grapes at Lincoln’s Inn.— Lincoln’s Inn 
can boast of Grapes growing in the grimy 
atmosphere of the centre of London. The old 
Grape Vine which is trained up the front of 
the house at No. 13, New Square, Lincoln’s 
Inn, has produced about 50 bunches of 
Grapes this year, and there is every reason to 
believe they will duly ripen. 
HYBRID_- — 
Tydaeas. 
A good succession of flowering plants is 
necessary to keep the greenhouse and con¬ 
servatory bright and gay, especially so 
through the summer, and in every collection 
of plants each one takes a part and does a 
share to keep these structures well supplied, 
although some last a longer period in flower 
than others. The above-named plants about 
now are just at their best, their beautifully 
spotted flowers, varying in distinct colours, 
hanging from the plants in a very effective 
manner. A well-grown specimen laden with 
flowers from the base is very welcome as a 
vase plant for room decoration. 
To get the best-shaped plants they should 
have been raised from seed sown early in 
February to be had in flower by this time. 
A light mixture should be used in which to 
sow the seed, consisting of equal parts of 
loam, leaf mould, and peat, with plenty of 
sand. The seedlings being large enough to 
handle, prick off into boxes or pans from 2 in. 
to 3 in. apart, using the same kind of mix¬ 
ture just mentioned, and keep growing in a 
temperature from 65 deg. to 70 deg. They 
soon reach a stage when they are fit to be 
transferred into 60’s, and should be done 
before they get overcrowded in boxes. Shift 
on into larger sizes as they need it. Compost 
suitable for final move is two parts loam, one 
jiart of leaf mould and peat, a little mortar 
rubble and sand. They enjoy a position near 
the roof-glass of a vinery or warm pit, and 
where they can easily be shaded from bright 
sunshine by using a piece of old blind which 
can be removed, in preference to a perma¬ 
nent shading. The foliage will soon seoreh if 
this is neglected, and will be a great disfigure¬ 
ment to the plants. Frequent syringing over¬ 
head and between the pots may be continued 
until they come into flower ; when nicely open, 
remove them to the above structure to take 
the place of those plants that, are over. It 
is to their advantage to water them with soot 
or manure water twice weekly. 
Plants are also grown from rhizomes that 
are formed at the roots from those grown 
from seed, and are kept year after year, keep¬ 
ing only those of the brightest colours. These 
also may be grown satisfactorily. To make 
sure of having them in perfect condition at 
the time of starting again, it is best for them 
to pass through their resting period in the 
pots they have previously flowered in. Lay 
the pots on their sides, _ and keep them in a 
warm, dry place. In March or April shake 
them out of the old soil carefully, and repot 
them in fresh compost already recommended, 
and treat similarly. 
Apart from the usefulness already de¬ 
scribed for summer work, they are just as 
useful in the spring. Plants can be had from 
cuttings taken in September from those that 
are about finished flowering. Choosing from 
the richest colours, insert a number of them 
in a pan containing leaf mould and sand, not 
too coarse; here they will readily root, after 
which not them into 60's and winter them on 
a shelf in the stove-house or in some heated 
pit having a temperature of a stove. Early 
in February give them a shift on into a larger 
pot, and they will be found to make a pleasant 
change for decorative purposes. Fineto. 
Claret-skinned Bananas are, it is re¬ 
ported, meeting with a large and increasing 
demand in the London markets, 
