742 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
September 23, 1905. 
Hibiscus syriacus. — The several single 
and double varieties of this handsome shrub 
are exceedingly valuable for the quantities of 
blossom they produce in autumn, which do 
much to brighten the appearance of the shrub¬ 
bery at this time of the year. For small 
gardens they are especially well suited, as 
they want little attention, and are not exact¬ 
ing" in their requirements. A fairly deep, 
moist soil suits them to perfection. Dwarf 
bushes and those worked on standards of 
medium height can both be obtained, and a 
good selection of colour would be found among 
such varieties as, totus albus, a beautiful 
single pure white, Coelestis, Violet Clair, 
ruber plenus, carneus plenus, puniceus 
plenus, roseus plenus, and Boule de Feu. 
A. E. Thatcher. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. 
Orchids for Amateurs. 
Cattleyas.—I do not desire to recommend 
the Cattleya genus and its allies as suitable 
subjects for cultivation by amateurs. I have 
previously pointed out that there are a small 
number of amateurs who have the facilities for 
the cultivation of stove and liot-house plants, 
and I think it as well at times to deal with 
the subjects that may be cultivated under 
the same conditions as that provided in the 
successful growing of a general collection of 
ordinary stove plants. lliere are uianj 
hybrids and species of Cattleyas or their allies 
that may be accommodated under these con¬ 
ditions, and I would desire now to draw par¬ 
ticular attention to the kinds which will afford 
a supply of flowers during the early autumn 
and winter months. Perhaps the best, cer- 
tainly the most reasonable to secure, being C. 
labiata, which commence to expand their 
flowers at the end of the present month, and 
will give a succession of flowers, providing 
several plants are grown, until the end of 
November. Plants of this species that have 
matured their growth, and those with their 
bulbs undeveloped, should be placed in; a posi- 
tion where they may obtain ample lig it, 
shading only when there is danger of the sun s 
direct "rays" scorching the foliage. This not 
only assists the proper ripening of the back¬ 
ward growths, but will also materially add 
to the" quality and substance of the flowers 
when they expand. C. dowiana and the 
variety C. d. aurea are not by any means the 
most satisfactory plants to grow. In many 
cases I know they deteriorate a few years after 
importing, but where suitable positions are 
found to meet- their requirements they are 
among the most attractive species of the 
aenusT I have always found these plants do 
most satisfactorily grown in baskets, or in 
shallow pans, so that they can be suspended 
near the roof glass, where they can procure 
ample light, and where there is no obstruction 
to the free circulation of the air of the house. 
They produce their gold and crimson flowers 
from September to the end of the year. C. 
Harrisoniae and the allied C. Loddigesn are 
annually imported, and may be procured for 
a modest outlay. They will grow satisfac¬ 
torily in the conditions of an ordinary stove. 
The elongated, generally twin-leaved pseudo¬ 
bulbs render their cultivation in pots desir¬ 
able. Although classed as winter and spring- 
flowering plants, the conditions under which 
plants are 'grown have so much influence that 
flowers are often produced at other seasons of 
the year. C. bowringiana is another autumn 
flowering species that is by no means largely 
cultivated. It is not a difficult species to 
grow, and when perfection in cultivation is 
attained it is a most useful and desirable 
acquisition. It is to the hybrids that have 
been obtained from the use of C. bowringiana 
as one of the parents that I would draw par¬ 
ticular attention ; they have a remarkably 
robust constitution, and are a most desirable 
addition to the winter-flowering Cattleyas. 
C. Mantinii (aurea and bowringiana) in its 
best forms is one of the finest. C. Portia 
(labiata and bowringiana), C. wendland- 
iana (Warscewicizii and bowringiana), and 
C. Mrs. W. J. Whiteley (bowringiana and 
hardyana) are among the most desirable of 
the remaining hybrids of this section. The 
hybrids that have been obtained from the in¬ 
Flower Garden and 
Pleasure Ground. 
Scillas. -I intend this week to deal briefly 
with some bulbs that are not so much in 
evidence as the Hyacinth, the Tulip and the 
Crocus, but all well worth a place in every 
garden. I begin with the Scillas. S. 
Sibirica, S.s. alba and S. multiflora are 
specially to be commended for brightening up 
the flower garden during March and early 
April. A good plan is to plant in lines near 
the Box or grass, and leave them undisturbed 
for a period of years. They should be got in 
with as little delay as possible ; plant about 
3in. deep and from 4in. to 6in. apart. S. 
campanulata alba and S.c. carnea (rosy) are 
also well worth growing ; they grow about 9in. 
high, and flower in May. 
Chionodoxas. —These much resemble the 
Scillas, but flower rather earlier, C. 
Luciliae being known as “ The Glory of the 
Snow.” This and C. gigantea and C. sar- 
densis are specially worthy of a place and 
require treatment similar to the early-flower¬ 
ing Scillas. 
Erythroniurns. —The Erythroniums or 
Dog’s-tooth Violet are all very attractive, both 
in flower and foliage, coming into flower dur¬ 
ing April in our northern regions. Where a 
bed can be devoted to them it is an advantage, 
but not a necessity. They should, however, 
have a light rich soil, and they should not be 
disturbed too frequently; an annual top 
dressing will prove highly beneficial. 
Sisyrinchiums. —There are several varie¬ 
ties of these, but S. grandiflorum and S.g. 
album are best known; the former lias 
purple flowers. They should have a well- 
drained soil and make excellent rockery 
plants. Plant 3in. deep-. Thley flower in 
April. C. C. 
Conservatory and Greenhouse. 
Early Mums. —As these come into bloom 
they should be introduced to the conservatory 
to take the place of summer plants going 
out of flower. 
Liliums. —These will now mostly be past, 
but attention must be given to the withdrawal 
fluence of Laelia crispa, such as Lc. Bryan, 
Lc. Nysa, and others of this section are 
easily procurable, and are by no means diffi¬ 
cult to cultivate. Lc. bletchleyensis (L. 
tenebrosa and C. Warscewiczii) has now be¬ 
come so plentiful that it may be obtained for a 
reasonable cost. It is free growing, and 
altogether a first rate autumn-flowering plant. 
Lc. callistoglossa is a first rate hybrid, and 
a very desirable plant. Space does not permit 
a fuller list, but thei’e are many attractive 
hybrids that might be included in the above 
list. The hybrids in all cases are far easier 
to cultivate than the species, and are thus the 
more worthy of attention. 
H. J. Chapman. 
of water by degrees to insure a natural pro¬ 
cess of ripening. 
Montbretias. —Except under the most 
favourable conditions many of the finer 
varieties of Montbretias are best treated as 
cool conservatory plants. As they only rest 
for a short period they should be plotted up 
early and wintered in a cold frame, keeping 
them rather dry till the young leaves appear. 
General preparations should now be made 
for housing all tender plants, as frosts may 
now occur at any time. Foliage plants 
should be sponged and syringed wherever 
necessary. The sux-face soil of pots should 
be cleaned and topdressed where necessary. 
C. C. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
Cauliflower. —It is now about time to think 
of getting a frame ready in which to prick 
off the little seedlings that are to stand 
the winter. First put in three or four inches 
of rough leaves. This acts as drainage, and 
when lifting the plants in spring the leaves 
stick to the roots and enable us to secure a 
good ball to each plant. If the soil is at all 
poor, a small quantity of well-rotted horse 
manure may be mixed with it, but on no 
account should the soil be too rich. Three 
inches of soil is quite sufficient, and it is well 
to make it quite firm by treading evenly down. 
Dibble in about three inches apart each way, 
and give a gentle watering, and keep close 
and shaded for a few days. Afterwards 
admit air on all favourable occasions, and 
during very fine days remove the sashes alto¬ 
gether. The- idea is to have the little plants 
as hardy and dwarf as possible before the 
advent of severe weather. 
Lettuce. —These may receive the same 
treatment in every way as recommended foi 
Cauliflower. Earlier sowings that may seem 
likely to be injured by frost may be preserved 
in good condition for a considerable time ii 
they are carefully lifted and heeled in undei 
a north wall. 
Tomatos.— These are still fairly abundant 
but must now receive a little warmth. Tin 
pipes should be kept fairly warm during the 
day, and plenty of air admitted to the house 
It is mainly damp that is injurious at this 
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OUR . . . 
Northern Gardens. 
