780 
THE GARDENING WORLD . October 7, 1905. 
Mab, which has rosy apricot flowers, good in 
the bud, and produced with great freedom. 
Like the above, it shows no sign of mildew, 
and though not such a strong grower should 
certainly be included. 
A. E. Thatcher. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. 
-♦- 
Orchids for Amateurs. 
Masdevallias. —There are few Orchids that 
can be accommodated in an ordinary fernery, 
where the density of shade required in pro¬ 
viding suitable conditions for Ferns will in 
most cases be detrimental to the successful 
cultivation of most of the pseudo-bulbous 
section of Orchids. The rliizomatous section 
of Orchids will in most cases prove suitable 
for similar conditions as that provided for 
Ferns, where a temperature with normal con¬ 
ditions can be maintained between 50 and 55 
degrees throughout the year. There is no 
section of Orchids that lend themselves more 
readily for this purpose than the genus Mas- 
devallia, especially the most showy, robust- 
growing kinds such as M. coccinea 
(harryana), M. ignea, M. Veitchii, and the 
various hybrids of this section. In the culti¬ 
vation of M. coccinea it is possible to procure 
almost all the delightful tints of colour one 
can describe ; yet, with such varied tints, it 
is remarkable how the colours harmonise, and 
they are never more attractively displayed 
than when mixed with Ferns. 
They are mostly spring and early summer 
flowering kinds, and they last a long time in 
perfection. Not being at the present time 
considered fashionable, they do not receive 
from cultivators the attention their merits 
deserve, but the amateur may profit by this 
in the fact that the plants are easily pro¬ 
curable for a modest outlay—certainly not 
more than would be necessary in securing a 
collection of ordinary Ferns or greenhouse 
plants. 
The Masdevallias may be divided under 
four headings. In addition to the class men¬ 
tioned above, we have the thick-leaved class, 
which require rather more light to induce 
them: to flower satisfactorily. They include 
such specimens as M. gargantua, leontoglossa, 
racemosa, Schroderae elephanticeps, etc. 
The section to which M. Chimaera belongs 
thrives well in an ordinary fernery, but are 
best suited when grown in baskets, so that 
they may be suspended, and will thus display 
their flowers to better advantage. The quaint 
characteristics of this class are the attrac¬ 
tion rather than the beauty of the individual 
flowers. There now remains the miniature 
structure class, such as M. Estradae, M. 
\\ agnerii, M. simula, M. Yespertilio, and 
the sensitive-lipped M. muscosa. The latter 
section is also best suited when grown in small 
pans or baskets, and suspended near the glass. 
The whole of the small-growing section should 
have their potting requirements attended to 
in the early spring, but it is advisable to look 
over the plants at the present season to see 
that they are not overgrown with Moss. Any¬ 
thing that has a tendency to retain excessive 
moisture about the plants for a prolonged 
period should be sheared away, and any de¬ 
cayed matter about the base should also be 
removed at the present season. 
The whole of the other sections of Masde- 
vallia should have attention now for any 
potting requirements that may be necessary. 
I do not advise annual repotting. If the com¬ 
post is in good condition and the plant has 
ample root-space it is not advisable to repot, 
but, should any of the surface Moss show 
signs of decay, it should be removed, and re¬ 
placed with fresh growing material. Where 
plants have become hollow by having grown 
away from the centre, they should be care¬ 
fully turned out of their pots, and, when re¬ 
potting), place the portions of the plants 
closer together in the centre. The pots used 
should be of a reasonable size; over-potting 
is not desirable. The pots should be filled to 
about two-thirds their depth with drainage. 
This may either consist of broken crocks or 
chopped Bracken roots, the latter for pre¬ 
ference, the potting compost consisting oT 
equal portions of fibrous peat and sphagnum 
J OUR . . . 
: Northern 
- w 
The Kitchen Garden. 
Latest Peas. —Unless with those fortunate 
enough to have risked a very late sowing, 
the Pea season was over very early this year. 
Where grown they have kept remarkably 
clean and healthy, and are now producing 
very good crops. I have this year tried 
Carter’s Michaelmas for the first time, and 
am rather pleased with its general character. 
It is of medium height, and produces dark 
green pods of fine quality. I cannot, how¬ 
ever, dispense with Autocrat for the very 
latest crop. It is in every way reliable. 
Seakale •—As soon as the leaves have fallen 
the Seakale beds should be thoroughly 
cleaned up, and if a quantity of rich manure 
can be spread between the rows so much the 
better. This, of course, applies to the part of 
the crop to be forced on the ground. Need¬ 
less to say, that this method produces by far 
the finest heads, and has also the advantage 
of doing practically no harm to the roots. 
With average attention this vegetable will 
produce from the same plants excellent 
crops for many years. On the other hand, 
the roots lifted and forced inside are of no 
further use, and had better be thrown away 
as soon as the crop is cut. 
Now is a good time to begin to collect clean 
leaves with which to force Seakale. These 
should be placed in a heap by themselves, and 
will then be at hand when required. 
Although leaves by themselves are rather 
slow in starting the Seakale, there can be no 
doubt that the produce is of far finer quality 
than when stronger heating material is used. 
Where possible, of course, all methods should 
be employed so as to have as long a season 
as can be. 
General Remarks —Where any alterations 
are to be made in the kitchen garden now is 
about the best time of the year for under¬ 
taking the work. No use leaving till spring, 
as, especially if at all wet, the routine work 
at that season takes up the whole of our time. 
This is a good time to relay box edgings. If 
done at once roots are formed before winter, 
arid in the event of a dry season it will be 
found that the autumn-planted edges are by 
far the most satisfactory. Where new planta¬ 
tions of Rhubarb are required these can be 
seen to very soon, and if well mulched with 
rough stable manure they will produce some 
serviceable stalks the first season. 
Preston, Linlithgow. C. Blaie. 
Moss, with sufficient rough sand added to 
render the whole porous. If the operator has 
had experience with leaf-soil treatment of 
Orchids, one-third Oak or Beech leaves may 
be added. The compost should be pressed 
firm, but not hard. Water with rain water 
as soon as potting is completed, poured 
through a moderately coarse rose on the water 
can. Shade from direct sunshine, and retain 
a cool, moist atmosphere until the roots get 
hold of the new compost. 
H. J. Chapmax. 
Gardens. 
Flower Garden and 
Pleasure Ground. 
Bedding Plants. —Cuttings of Calceolarias 
must now be got in. Select the side shoots, 
which should now be plentiful. Place a 
layer 4 in. deep of half-decayed leaves in the 
bottom of the frame, and cover with a layer 
of sandy soil, pressing it firmly prior to 
dibbling in the prepared cuttings. Water 
with a rose when finished, and keep close and 
shaded for ten days or a fortnight, and then 
admit light and air gradually. Gazania 
splendens should be treated in the same way 
a.s Calceolarias. 
Tigridias. —When planting miscellaneous 
bulbs a place should be found for a few 
Tigridias; true, the individual flowers are 
short-lived, rarely lasting more than a day, 
but their exquisite colouring atones for this 
drawback. If planted in a sunny, sheltered 
nook they give no trouble, and are sure to 
fascinate all who see them in flower through¬ 
out. the summer. A collection of them can 
be bought quite cheaply. 
General. — Attention must now be given 
to cutting away the decayed flower stems of 
numerous flowering plants, as things have a 
tendency to become “ littery ” at this season. 
By keeping things clean and tidy the beauty 
-of summer and autumn can be considerably 
prolonged. --—» 
Conservatory and Greenhouse. 
Housing —Continue to carry out the direc¬ 
tions given under this head last week. 
Watering —Watering in cool houses 
should now, as far as possible, be done in the 
morning, allowing the stages and floors to 
dry up before evening, damping being one 
■of the chief evils to be overcome during the 
autumn and winter. 
Cinerarias. —These useful spring-flowering 
plants should now be ready for the final 
potting. Very useful plants for house deco¬ 
ration can be flowered in 6-in. irots, but 7-in. 
pots are best for general purposes, whilst for 
exhibition work 8-in. pots are often employed. 
Use -a fairly rich soil, with some fine bone- 
meal or bone-flour in it to carry on the plants 
throughout the winter. Winter in as cool a 
structure as is available, but do not let the 
temperature fall to freezing point, or the 
results will be disastrous, if not fatal. 
Hydrangeas. —Where large specimens are 
grown, as is the case here, they can be 
placed out of doors till severe frost sets in, 
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