0( tober 7, 1005. 
THE OA RDEi\ ING WORLD 
781 
when they can be 'accommodated in a shed 
or outhouse till the Chrysanthemum season 
is over and room is found for them indoors. 
c. c. 
Hardy Fruit. 
Fruit picking 'continues to fill the work for 
the present, using great care in selecting the 
fruit, taking all the ripest trees first, such 
varieties as the Codlings, Lord Suffield, 
Ecklinvilles, and so on. Northern Dumpling, 
by the way, a variety raised at. Gordon Castle 
by the late Mr. Webster, of Plum fame, is 
constantly watched over and picked on the 
shelves a lot are soon destroyed. 
Careful gathering and also careful packing 
or storing are of the greatest importance to 
the keeping of good sound fruit, for the 
slightest bruise soon causes decay, and unless 
constantly watched and picked over on the 
shelves a lot are soon destroyed. 
Next to the picking is the ventilation of the 
fruit-room for some time after storing com¬ 
mences. There is a good deal of evaporation 
at first when fruits are newly pulled, and there 
is a good deal in keeping fruit from sweat¬ 
ing, which soon causes decay. 
Apricots, Peaches and Plums still require 
constant and almost daily picking, as they 
will not keep long. 
Trees where the fruit has been pulled, such 
as Peaches, might well be looked over, and 
all superfluous shoots thinned out to allow 
next year’s wood to get thoroughly ripened, 
and in the case of Apricots any pruning back 
of extended spurs or young growths are better- 
done as soon as possible to encourage 
strength in buds for next year’s crop. 
Cullen. J. Frase» Smith. 
The Wild Garden, 
ii. 
Fritillaria Meleagris (Snake’s-head) and 
Ornithogalum umbellatum (Star of Bethlehem) 
with Camassia esculenta and C. Cusickii, are 
excellent bulbs for fringing clumps of Conifers, 
Laurels, etc., on the sunny side. They are not 
particular as to soil, but are better planted in 
broken ground than on solid turf. The same 
remarks apply to Aspkodeline lutea, Allium 
Moly and Polygonatum multitiorum. 
The autumn - flowering Colchicums and 
Cyclamens, although not minding the shade, 
will not succeed where it is other than being 
shaded from the sun by the trees. The growth 
of the Colchicums produced in spring is, so 
that care must be taken they are not planted 
where they may be injured. The foliage of the 
Cyclamen is generally produced with the 
flowers. The Crown Imperial likes a shady 
and sheltered place, such a corner one often 
sees where the leaves all seem to collect during 
the winter. 
Polyanthuses and Primroses are the best 
plants for open parts right inside small coppices 
or woods that we may want furnished. In a 
situation that suits them they seed freely, and 
numbers of young seedlings maybe seen coming- 
up amongst a well established planting. The 
Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea), Woodruff 
(Asperula odorata), Mertensia virginica, 
rulmonaria tuberosa, Mimulus cardinalis, etc., 
will succeed. The common yellow Mimulus, 
as I know it, likes a damp situation and as 
much light as it can get. Some of the Orchises 
are well adapted for positions which suit the 
Primrose. Orchis maculata and O. pyramidalis 
with Habenaria bifolia and H. conopsea are, 
perhaps, the best. The fragrance arising from 
these on a still June or July evening is 
l 
elicious. I hey are rather difficult plants to 
I’locure from nurserymen, but they may safely 
>e Jilted in September and transferred to home 
quarters. 
• , . *?. r ® aie some places in these gardens where 
it is difficult to know what to plant, but one 
< an generally be safe in recommending the 
Irish Ivy. The finest Cedar of Lebanon I 
tnink 1 have yet come across is in the rectory 
gardens, Alverstoke, in Hampshire. Even 
moss would not grow underneath it, so dry was 
it, yet the Ivy and Hypericum grew splendidly, 
v incas or Periwinkles, Iberis (perennial Candy¬ 
tuft), and the Brooms are all good plants for 
veiy cliy parts. Some of the coarser-growing 
Jiei baceous plants are good for clumps or single 
specimens. Amongst others I would recom¬ 
mend are Centaurea macrocephala, the flowers 
of winch resemble a yellow Thistle, all the 
Lephalarias, Cnicus altissimus, Crambe cordi- 
tolia, the Bocconias, the Globe Artichoke, 
Rheum officinale, and Veratrum album and 
V. nigrum. 
I he situations for these should be well 
trenched with some good, rotten manure in 
corporated, and be planted in autumn. Almost 
all the British Ferns will succeed, especially 
the Athyriums, Polystichurns, and Lastreas 
Of course, it would be useless trying to succeed 
with such plants as Cryptogramme crispa, etc., 
in a garden of this description. The Rambler 
Boses and Honeysuckles, Clematis Vitalba, 
and C. Varicella are good subjects if allowed to 
ramble at will. Of shrubs there is no end, 
both flowering and foliage, the trees, of course, 
being those that already occupy the ground. 
Their position is such that their lower branches 
are rarely injured by cattle, so we have them 
at their best, and this brings me to the last 
and most important point to be remembered, 
namely, the fencing. This must be of a close 
and high enough character to keep out rabbits 
and hares (in many places deer), and should be 
done first, or the chances are that as soon as 
planting commences the smell of the fresh 
turned earth will attract them in large 
numbers ; those that are there already should 
be ferreted and shot. H. Arnold. 
VFCiFTARI FS ALL THE YEAR r °und. 
Y LVJ L 1 ADLLJ VI.-DWARF FRENCH BEANS. 
For amateurs who have small gardens these 
beans are truly invaluable. A large number 
of pods may be gathered from a single row of 
plants, and the pods, when gathered at the 
right time, that is, before the seeds fully form 
in them, constitute one of the most delicate 
dishes for the table. 
The Soil and Situation —The earliest out¬ 
door crop should be raised on a sheltered, 
warm border of rich, light soil. The light, 
loam is the best for these Bean plants 
throughout, the season, but during the very 
hot weather in summer a cooler spot should 
A 
the soil. 
be chosen, else the leaves will quickly become 
infested with red spider. 
Preparing the Ground and Sowing the 
Seeds.—If the top 12 in. of earth is well dug 
and enriched with rotted manure the Bean 
plants will thrive freely, but- a very shallow- 
tilled loam does not suit, them, as the roots 
dry up quickly in such, and the plants lose 
all the later-formed flowers. This makes a 
vast difference between a full and a poor 
crop. 
It does not pay to be hasty and sow the 
seeds too soon. If the young plants are sub¬ 
jected to cold winds they become stunted and 
practically worthless. 
In the northern counties the beginning of 
May is soon enough, and the end of April in 
the southern shires. I have seen plants 
raised in the south early in April prove quite 
a failure, and others, the result of a later 
sowing, growing by their side luxuriantly and 
bearing pods first. 
Having well worked the ground, draw out 
drills 3 in. deep and 18 in. asunder. Sow the 
seeds about- 7 in. apart in the drills and 
neatly cover them ; they will then be 2 in. 
under the soil. Plenty of sjiace should be 
given to these plants to develop in. It is 
such a common mistake, that made by gar¬ 
deners generally, to sow too thickly. One 
plant with ample room will bear more than 
three where the latter are overcrowded. Do 
not forget to support the young plants with 
dwarf brandling sticks. Remember you are 
expecting a heavy crop, and when it comes 
trie plants will topple over. 
Tins means that, some will be broken off 
and all will get soiled and the pods assume 
a crooked shape. Sow at intervals of 14 
pods t0 ° btain a consta:nt supply of young 
Summer Treatment.— Directly the hot 
weather commences, water thoroughly and 
apply a rich mulch, or put on the latter while 
the ground is moist from rains. Keep the 
crop veiy clean, of course, but do not neglect 
the mulching ; it maintains the plants in a 
healthy condition, and, moreover, creates 
rapid growth both of pods and plants. This 
condition means a large crop of succulent 
Beans. 
Insect Pests.- Red spider injures the plants 
more than any other insect. During rainv 
weather the plants keep fairly free, but imme¬ 
diately hot weather comes the pest does too. 
Syringing the foliage with clean water occa¬ 
sionally will help very much to keep the 
insect off. V hen it does come svringe with 
a solution of soft soap, sulphur and water ; 
1 oz. of the former and 1 oz. of the sulphur 
gently boiled for twenty minutes in one 
gallon of rain water will cio. Afterwards add 
two gallons of clear water, and syringe on 
the mixture in the evening. 
Varieties. —Sion House, Osborn’s Forcing, 
Ne Plus Ultra, Canadian Wonder, Magnum 
Bonum, and “ The Monster ” Negro. 
In season from July to November in out¬ 
side borders. G. 
