October 7, 1905. 
THE OAR DEM NG WORLD. 
The Editor invites enquiries, which may cover 
any branch of gardening. Questions should be as 
brief as possible and written on one side of the 
paper only; a separate sheet of paper should be 
used for each question. Readers are invited to 
give their fellow gardeners the benefit of their 
experience by sending supplementary replies—see 
Prize Competitions. 
Replies cannot be sent by post. 
Garden Plans .—Gardeners who would make 
the best use of this column are invited to prepare 
and forward to us a rough outline dra ting or plan 
of their gardens, indicating the position of beds 
and lawns, the character und height of the fence 
or wcdl ; position of vegetable garden, orchard, 
etc. The north side of the garden and any over- 
shadowing buildings should be denoted. It should 
also be stated whether the garden is flat or on a 
declivity, and all large trees should be marked. 
• Particulars of the nature of the soil will also 
help us to give satisfactory replies. When such 
plans are received they will be carefully filed., with 
the name and address of the sender, and will be 
consulted by the Editor whenever an enquiry is sent. 
Peach Stones Splitting. 
Kindly state in your next issue of The 
Gardening World what is the cause oif the stone 
inside the Peach decaying ? The house is a lean-to 
facing the south. There are three Peach trees and 
a Nectarine. The Peach which I send you is a 
Royal George. When the Peaches were stoning 
they showed no signs of decay. Would dryness at 
the root cause the stone to decay when ripening? 
(Constant Reader.) 
The splitting of the stones of Peaches is not a 
very well understood matter. It is generally 
conceded, however, to be due to some error in cul¬ 
tural treatment, but what that might be in this 
particular instance it would be difficult to say. 
We would suggest that the trees had got dry at 
the root previous to the period of stoning, and that 
you had suddenly deluged them with water when 
you considered the stoning period had passed, and 
wished to push them along rapidly. The trees and 
fruit, as a result of this excess of water, had recom¬ 
menced growth, and possibly this sudden excess 
of water caused the stones to split on account 
of rapid growth caused thereby. That, of 
course, is a mere suggestion. We would 
congratulate you in being able to ripen the 
fruits under the conditions. Some growers 
have got to witness the fruits drop off the trees as 
a result of this error in treatment. The only 
defect about the fruit, judging from the speci¬ 
mens sent us, is that it is a little dis- 
coloured about tho stone. We should advise you 
another year to keep the trees regularly watered 
throughout the whole oif the growing period, as 
the trees really require the same amount of water 
when stoning as at any other period. They are 
really not resting, but hard at work, thickening 
the cells of the stone, and therefore requiring as 
much food as at any other time. The only thing 
you should bear in mind is not to give too high 
a temperature during the stoning period, as the 
tree ® ,) vi11 b f hurried by that means, and 
probably most of the young fruits would drop as a 
result of an excessively high temperature. 
Cucumbers Diseased. 
I should be very pleased if you could give me 
any information as regards this Cucumber case 
Tl,: a "i! ar i y , n T ,1 L er nu f Gardening World. 
The plants look healthy for about six weeks after 
planting, and then a little brown spot shows and 
gradua ly spreads all over. I have grown 
L ucumbers in the same house for years but have 
never seen anything like it before. (New 
Reader.) ' 
Tour Cucumbers are very badly affected with 
the Cucumber Spot, a disease produced by Cer- 
cospora Meloms. It is too late now to think 
of curing the plants, as they are so thoroughly 
infested judging by the specimens you sent us. 
I he best plan would be to clear out the plants 
“ h Y n i he T The 8011 should be taken out 
and placed where it is not likely to come in 
contact with the Cucumber-house any more and 
at a distance, if possible. The hom/shouU then 
be thoroughly washed inside, using a good dose 
of paraffin in the water, provided there are no 
plants in the house. Then, having made up a bed 
of fresh soil, you would be ready to make a fresh 
plantation, provided you have the plants in suit¬ 
able condition by you. There is most hope for 
your case, however, next spring by preventing 
the disease from getting any particular hold of 
the plants. There are several cures, and others 
are recommended. The simplest of these is to 
syringe the plants at frequent intervals, as soon 
as you see the first traces of the disease, with a 
fungicide at the rate of ) oz. of sulphide of potas¬ 
sium to a gallon of water. The Swanley College 
Cucumber Cure consists of 1 pint of Calvert’s 
carbolic acid to five quarts of water. Any 
diseased leaves should be cut off and burned 
immediately. Then in the evening, after six 
o’clock, you should get a fine-rosed can, and 
lightly damp down the paths and all open spaces 
in the house, being careful not to wet the Cucum¬ 
ber border nor the Cucumber plants in any way. 
The fumes from the carbolic acid are said to 
prevent the development of the fungus. Then 
there is the Ladds’ cure, which is a trade secret, 
and obtainable only by payment of a certain fee. 
This is best known amongst market gardeners. 
Prevention is always better than cure, and the 
removal of the earliest indications of the spot 
and the keeping of the house rather drier for a 
time might help you to overcome the difficulty. 
Name of Trained Chrysanthemum. 
Will you kindly tell me the name of the 
trained Chrysanthemum which forms the subject 
of the full-page supplement of The Gardening 
World for September 16th ? (Original 
Reader.) 
The variety photographed, we believe, was 
Vi viand Morel, but its sports, including Charles 
Davis, are also equally suitable for training, and 
flower as freely when grown in this particular 
way. 
Recipe for Making Grape Wine. 
Can you give me a recipe for making Grape 
wine? I have a lot that did not ripen. (E W 
Smith.) 
As far as we know, only sparkling Grape wine 
is made from Grapes grown in this country. The 
process is not a difficult one. The Grapes should 
be gathered before they are fully ripe. The 
bunches, including their stalks, may be put into 
any tub of convenient size, but perfectly clean 
before using it. You should then bruise them 
until every berry is broken. Add a quart of cold 
water to every pound of fruit. In this condition 
they may stand in the tub for three days, during 
which time they should be stirred two or three 
times during every twenty-four hours. After 
this they will have fermented to a certain 
extent, when you can strain them, so as to sepa¬ 
rate the solid material from the liquid. Add 
3i lbs. of good lump sugar to every gallon of the 
liquid. After standing until the' sugar is dis¬ 
solved, the liquid may be placed in a cask lying 
in such a position that the bung is uppermost. 
The cask should be kept perfectly full by add 
ing fresh liquid as it subsides in the barrel 
during the process of fermentation. A small 
quantity may be kept in a clean vessel for this 
purpose in case it should be wanted. After a 
period of ten days add a pint of brandy to every 
five gallons of the liquid, together with i oz 
of isinglass to the same quantity. When fermen¬ 
tation has ceased to be violent, the barrel may be 
corked tight and placed in some dry and cool 
place till July following the process of making. 
I he wine might then be bottled, using cham¬ 
pagne bottles. The corks should be wired to pre¬ 
vent loss, as the corks sometimes fly out, owing 
to the process of fermentation ' which still 
continues. 
I have lost a good many Peaches with the spot 
shown on the fruit which I send you. It com- 
mences small, and increases in size, sometimes 
on the end, and at other times on the side, like 
the one sent. Could you through your valuable 
P a pe r give me the cause and remedy? (H. D. W I 
lour Peaches are attacked by a fungoid disease 
caused by Monilia fructigena, which attacks a 
great variety of fruits, including Apples, Plums, 
Grapes, Peaches Nectarines, and probablv 
others. The attack usually commences, or is 
most apparent, when the fruits are ripe, or in 
the ripening and softening stage. In the case of 
the hardy fruits this happens out of doors, as 
well as after they have been taken to the fruit- 
room. At all events, the disease becomes more 
and more apparent after they have been taken 
to the fruit-room. Very often, however, they are 
so bad in the open that they drop from the trees 
Moisture would, of course, be a great assistance 
o the spores in enabling them to germinate upon 
the fruits Out of doors this can scarcely be 
remedied, but under glass all that we can advise 
you to do is to keep the atmosphere of the Peach- 
house as dry and airy as possible during the 
ripening period. Whenever you discover any of 
the fruits showing signs of the disease they 
should be gathered at once and burned in order 
to destroy the spores and prevent them from 
spreading to other sound fruits. It is quite a 
mistake to throw them on the rubbish heap 
either in the potting-sheds or out of doors, as 
the spores, when they are ripe, come to the out¬ 
side of the fruits by the bursting of the spore- 
cases, and the spores get carried about in the 
atmosphere by the wind. There is no fungicide 
that you can apply to the fruits, as it would be 
dangerous to put poisonous substances on woolly 
fruits like the Peach. We should advise you, 
therefore, to keep the house drv and airy bv 
abundant ventilation and by avoiding the water- 
mg of plants. Indeed, if there are any plants 
m the Peach-house, they should be all taken to 
some other house while the Peaches are ripenimr 
Jr v S pIf L he i p a j] - we r pursued ’ and we never lost 
any -readies by this fungus. 
Name of Tree and Time to Lift It. 
Please inform me what is the name of the 
tree of which I enclose a leaf. What is the proper 
time to move it? (S. Howell.) 
,, li ‘ tl « tree of which you send us a leaf is 
the Stag s-horn Sumach (Rhus typhina). It can 
be transplanted at any time after the fall of the 
leaf, which we are afraid would be in November 
as it holds its leaves pretty late. If you can’ 
however, move it in the first half of November it 
will get partly established before winter. If you 
cannot manage to do it then, the operation 
should be left until fairly fine weather arrives 
in March, because then it will not be subjected 
to severe weather at the roots before it com¬ 
mences to make fresh growth. In the spring¬ 
time it can practically be moved at anv time until 
the buds are of some size, after which it should 
not be disturbed. 
Virginia Creeper in a Tub. 
“ Violet ” would be much obliged if you would 
kindly tell her whether Virginia Creeper vrown 
in a tub after some time does not become° root- 
bound, and consequently die. (2) If you can 
