794 
flower, and where it may not, it can be 
brought to the garden of sweet scents to¬ 
gether with the Oak-leaved Geranium and 
the Heliotrope for the summer months. 
And if we need shrubs for use among the 
fragrant flowers, we have Lilacs and Magno¬ 
lias, hardy Azaleas and others. Among 
bulbous plants we have the Lilies, hosts in 
themselves, and Hyacinths—not the blue 
wild Hyacinths of our woods, hut those 
that are of larger form and are among the 
most powerfully-scented flowers of the 
spring. 
There is no autumn work that can prove 
more enchanting than this of turning some 
corner of our plot into a garden of sweet 
sjents. I have given a large selection of 
plants, doubtless I have omitted some I 
ought to have named, but so long as we do 
not forget the importance of glad, gay colour 
when making our choice there is no reason 
why the garden of sweet scents should not 
be as beautiful, as decorative, as any other 
portion, and it shall have an additional 
charm that shall enchant us—its perfume. 
F. M. Wells. 
A Remarkable Stonecrop. 
(Sedum obtusatum.) 
Whilst inspecting an unusually large col¬ 
lection of Sedums a short time since, we were 
particularly charmed by a fine big patch of 
Sedum obtusatum, which may fairly claim 
to rank among the most select and beautiful 
members of this large. and varied family. 
The stems of the plant stand erect to a height 
of 3 in. or 4 in. • they are of bright shining 
red colour, and almost transparent. Tire 
leaves are thick, blunt, and fleshy, and might 
be said to resemble miniature kidneys in 
shape. They are thickly set on the stems. 
In spring the leaves are green, but with the 
heat of summer they take on a ruddy tinge, 
which gradually deepens, and by autumn the 
whole plant is of a pleasing crimson tint, and 
thus it remains right on until the following 
spring. Flowers of the brightest golden 
yellow are freely produced during -June or 
July, according to situation and season, and 
not many plants present a more delightful 
spectacle than a broad, healthy patch of this 
Stonecrop. 
Close by was Sedum brevifolium, that lovely 
little mealy Sedum which takes on such deli¬ 
cate grey, silvery, and jDink tints, and on the 
other side the glaucous foliage of Sedum. 
Ewersii helped to show up its neighbour to 
greater advantage by contrast. 
We have grown Sedum obtusatum in pans 
for exhibition purposes, and.it makes a hand¬ 
some subject indeed if well brought on in a 
sunny position. The best plan is to prepare 
a pan of soil with a liberal supply of rough 
sandstone, and sow seed evenly over the 
whole surface. If the young plants are 
unduly crowded, thin out as soon as they can 
be handled, and sprinkle sharp sand among 
the remaining plants. In the same way a 
patch may be established on the rockery. 
Heather Bell. 
During the final march past of the whole of 
the actors in the extra performance of the 
Sherborne pageant, some time ago, which 
took place in the presence of some 6,000 
people, Mr. Louis N. Parker was bombarded 
with Roses by the Sherborne schoolboys. 
The Flower Garden. 
Carnations and Wireworms.—Lovers of 
Carnations are often tormented by wireworms 
ruining the young plants a few weeks after 
putting out in spring. This pest is difficult to 
get rid of, especially in new ground. The most 
efficient remedy for wireworms is gas lime, and 
now is the best time to apply it. When the 
beds or borders are cleared of summer occu¬ 
pants, apply a light dressing of gas lime and dig 
it in, this will effectually rid the soil of the 
enemy. The lime of course would be fatal to 
the Carnations were they planted anywhere 
near it in a fresh state, but if applied now the 
injurious elements will be gone by next March, 
and if then the ground is well forked over 
before planting the Carnations, say two or three 
weeks before, all clanger from the lime and the 
wireworm will-be gone.. 
It is not easy to obtain gas lime everywhere, 
but failing that a good dressing of soot or 
ordinary quicklime applied in the same way- 
does much to free the soil from pests detri¬ 
mental to the plants. 
Pinks and Carnations.—All cuttings or 
pipings of Pinks, rooted as advised early in the 
season, should by this time be planted out, 
because, being hardier than the Carnation, they 
will generally stand the winter without protec¬ 
tion. In some localities Carnations may be 
planted out in autumn, and occasionally the 
layers are not removed from the parent plant 
till spring, but the safer plan is to pot them 
and winter in a cold frame or house as previ¬ 
ously directed. 
Garden Refuse.—The disposal of garden 
refuse, such as summer bedding plants not 
required for stock, occasionally presents some 
difficulty,especially in gardens near towns where 
space is limited.' A piece of ground to be 
trenched affords a good opportunity of burying 
such rubbish, otherwise burning is the best 
remedy. Should the smoke be objectionable 
a quantity of soil thrown over the heap will 
“damp” the fire and allow the refuse to 
smoulder away gradually without emitting any 
great bulk of smoke. When the process is 
complete the residuum may be returned to the 
ground, such ash containing much plant food. 
The Kitchen Garden, 
Up to the time of writing we have registered 
no frost here, and on the whole the month of 
September has been a most favourable one for 
kitchen garden crops generally. Vegetable Mar¬ 
rows, Beans, and Peas are still giving good crops, 
but of course at any moment this may now come 
to an end, and to prolong the season of such 
things as above mentioned it will be wise to be 
on the alert, and to protect as far as possible a 
small quantity of each, and at the same time to 
gather in any of the produce of such which are 
likely to be spoiled, and preserve them as far 
as possible by keeping them in a cool, damp 
place, placing the stalks in a little water. 
Seed-saving.—Every enthusiastic cultivator 
of vegetables should endeavour a,s far as 
possible, when once he comes into possession 
of any special stock, to do his best to keep it. 
Consequently, an annual saving of a little seed 
should be practised, especially so in the case of 
Runner and French Beans, Peas, Onions, 
Celery, Cucumbers, and Vegetal: le Marrows, 
and every care should be taken to ripen and 
harvest each in the best possible condition, 
when the vitality and growth will be in 
every way superior to that which has been 
badly finished. Each of those mentioned 
above should, if possible, be placed in a sunny 
position after gathering, under glass, and 
cleaned and stored away in a place of safety on 
wet days or during the long evenings. 
Cabbage.—Ply the draw hoe frequently 
between the rows of the earlier plantations, at 
the same time making good any vacancies. 
One more good breadth should be planted 
during the early part of the present month; 
after which, prick out a good batch of the 
weaker plants from the seed beds into skeleton 
frames, four inches apart, in a sheltered 
position, so that protection may be given in 
case of very severe weather. 
Cauliflowers.—These should be looked over 
every two or three days, and the heads pro¬ 
tected as they are formed by placing a few 
leaves over them, afterwards drawing the 
foliage together, and fasten near the top with a 
piece of bast. This vegetable is generally in 
great demand whenever it is obtainable, and 
very late plantings, especially of Autumn 
Giant or Michaelmas White Broccoli, should 
be lifted with good balls of earth, and carefully 
planted in cold frames, or even open sheds, and 
where conveniences exist these will continue to 
produce excellent heads well into the New 
Year. E. Beckett. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. 
Fruit Garden. 
Outdoors. 
Insects—Practically speaking, these are a 
pest the whole year through, whether indoors 
or out, probably less so in the latter case, but 
many of the feathered tribe certainly come 
under this heading in our case, as they spoil 
many more Apples and Pears than do the 
caterpillar pest, and this is saying much, as we 
all know the ravages these make : and this 
reminds us that this is the month for the de¬ 
struction of the Winter Moth. Granted, there 
are- many difficulties in the way as regards 
trained trees on wall and trellis, as there are so 
many roads for the moth to climb up, but 
isolated specimens, whether in garden or 
orchard, are easily dealt with, and it is 
beginning at the right end. Many fruit tree 
growers use ordinary cart-grease for the pur¬ 
pose, but there are now specially prepared 
dressings to be had from the sundriesman, 
together with paper, which must be made 
secure around the stem about which the 
dressing is put on, so tliat*it does not come in 
actual contact with the bark. These bands are 
from six to nine inches wide, and are pasted 
over one side with a mixture of flour and water 
to make it stick to the stem or trunk, and on 
this the dressing is smeared, which catches the 
female moth when ascending to lay her eggs in 
the crevices of the bark. This winter dressing- 
should be renewed two or three times during 
the next few months, and may be had fairly 
cheap from Horne and Sons, of Clifie, near 
Rochester, Kent, who have studied the ques- 
