May 20, 1905. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
421 
roots whoa engaged in the operation of transplanting, espe¬ 
cially of large specimens. 
The site should he prepared either by digging or trenching 
according to the nature of the ground, and when ready it 
should be levelled about 6 in. below the surface. The plant 
should then be placed on a slight mound in the centre of the 
site prepared, and the long roots carefully laid out on all sides. 
It is immaterial whether the ground is mulched in winter 
or not, but in any case the cultivator should avoid placing 
manure of a rank character over the large crown of leaves 
which pushes up in spring. In order to guard against wind 
the growing stems should be supported in good time with 
strong but neat stakes. Our coloured illustration was pre¬ 
pared from a spike supplied us by Mr. G. Reuthe. 
Potting Orchids. 
The potting of Orchids is a subject in which great care, 
skill, and judgment are required. The operator has many 
points to consider. Most epiphytal Orchids require an 
abundance of drainage, and to be slightly elevated above 
the rim of the pot, but a great difference of opinion has been 
raised by successful men, for some succeed under totally differ¬ 
ent circumstances as to the soil used. I once obtained from 
a nurseryman an Oncidium flexuosum in the pink of condition, 
growing in leaf-mould without any crocks whatever, and in 
course of time, as it wanted repotting, I naturally potted it 
in leaf-mould again, very similar to what it came out of, viz., 
oak leaves just after they had fallen. The result was, the 
plant did no good at all. That led me to discard leaf-mould 
for 0. flexuosum at least. On the other hand, I have seen 
Masdavallias thrive in a compost of fibrous peat, sphagnum 
moss, and decayed leaf-mould in equal parts. Leaf-mould I 
would not recommend the beginner to use much of; neither 
would I be too hasty in condemning it, as no doubt many 
succeed who use it. To deal with the potting of Orchids generally, 
the operator must be guided by his own experience as to the 
material he uses, and it is advisable to copy nature as near as 
possible. Personally,- I consider there is no better compost 
than good fibrous peat, sphagnum moss, and clean crocks 
for such plants as Cattleyas, Odontoglossums, Oncidiums, 
Epidendrums, Dendrobiums, etc., and for the East Indian 
Orchids, such as Vandas Amides, Saecolabiums, Phalaenopsis, 
nothing but clean crocks and sphagnum moss. Coming 
to Cymbidiums, Phaius, and some of the Cypripediunts, a little 
good fibrous loam may be added to the peat and moss, but care 
must be taken to get all the fine out, using only the fibre, to 
which may be added coarse sand and broken charcoal. The 
last named Orchids do not require to be elevated above the rim 
of the pot, such as Cattleyas, etc., but should be kept about 
level of the rim. Calanthes require different soil altogether. 
The best 1 have seen was grown in loam, peat, and dried cow 
manure, broken crocks, and charcoal. Thunias also thrived 
m this mixture. Now, in regard to potting' Orchids generally, 
the aim must be to leave the soil as much like a wet sponge 
as possible. Half fill the pot or basket with large crocks 
placed upright with a layer of compost raised in the middle, 
on which place the plant, after all decayed matter and dead 
roots have been removed. Then with a thin, strong stick 
pack lightly in between the roots, and fill up, leaving the whole 
neat, and a few nice pieces of sphagnum moss dibbled in at 
intervals round the top. Now the most important point is to 
know when the plant requires potting; many Orchids have 
oeen lost by mexperienced men through potting at the Arong 
nme. Intelligent men may soon know by careful watching 
that as soon as the roots begin to show at the bottom of the last 
made growth of Cattleyas, etc., the operation should be per- 
tormed. m the case of Cypripedium and other terrestrial 
Uichids, when the thick fleshy roots appear on the surface they 
shou d receive attention. Perfectly clean pots or pans only 
should be used and if the pots are new, a soaking will be 
beneficial, m order to prevent drying of the soil. 
B, E. G. Bowyer. 
Letters to the Editor. 
Gardening as Employment for Women. 
To the Editor of The Gardening World. 
Sir,—In reply to the letter of D. C., in your last issue, I 
would like to venture a few further remarks. I told him, in 
reply to his first article on the above subject, that his ideas 
were sadly in need of a polish up, and now, more than ever, am 
I convinced that such is the case. He starts away in grand 
style, and explains that, because a woman cannot hit anything 
smaller than a house, she is unfitted for gardening. If she 
could so direct a stone that she would be able to break a 
window in that same house, then she could be a gardener. 
lE/iuiu. Macliren and Sons. 
Inflorescence of Lisochiltjs Mahoni. (See p. 415). 
There is a great deal of bogie in that, and, ladies, I would 
advise you all in future to take lessons in the art of 
stone-throwing before considering yourselves fit to enter our 
profession! 
After our friend had so kindly shown us the anatomical de¬ 
fects of the female frame, he should, at least, have been con¬ 
tented to rest on his oars, but instead of that he embarks 
on the new role—that of a discoverer. I do not think any of 
your readers were aware of the existence of the hybrid lady. 
" But there is no doubt about it, the variety, ' bipeda foemina 
hybrida, is an existing fact.” I do not doubt your word, D. C., 
but, really, I am strongly inclined to think you are joking. I 
have travelled much in my time, and neither at 
home nor abroad have I been able to run across 
one of those remarkable hybrid ladies. They seem 
to possess the same traits—particular ugliness of 
features, and a nanny-goat beard with side-boards. I have 
been on the racecourse, and seen many a meet: I have also 
had the pleasure of hearing some of our talented lady friends 
from the platform, and at different times known both lady 
