430 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
^Lay 27, 1905. 
j Among thc^Orchids.^ 
Seedling Orchid?. —There is no branch of horticulture more 
fascinating or of greater interest than the' hybridisation and 
raising of seedling Orchids. A great deal has been said and 
written about the period that elapses between the fertilisation 
of the flowers and the flowering of the seedling plants. In the 
first place, I might mention that in almost the whole of the 
Epiphytal section of Orchids the seed vessel takes about a. year 
from the time of fertilising until the seed is ripe ; the longer 
the pod takes to ripen, the quality of the seed will generally 
be found to be of greater germinating power. At one time from 
six to ten years was considered a reasonable time in which to 
get plants into flower. The better facilities and knowledge of 
the requirements of the plants have considerably reduced this 
period, from four to five years now being considered about the 
time to enable us to see the flowers produced at their best; 
there are instances where the plants have flowered in a much 
less time than that herein mentioned. All depends on the 
cultivation. In all cases seedling Orchids must be kept in a 
moving state, and no attempt can be successfully made of rest¬ 
ing the seedling plants before they have reached the flowering 
stage. This is one of the errors of the past, it being considered 
necessary to rest the plants immediately the first growth had 
matured. Repotting also should be frequent, never permitting, 
the plants to remain in a compost in an advanced stage of 
decomposition. 
The Seed Beds. —For Cattleyas, Laelias, Epidendrums, 
Sophronitis and allied genera, the seed may be sown on piece® 
of calico or washing silk, but the piece of cloth rather larger 
than the circumference of the pot. Pack the middle firmly 
with chopped sphagnum moss, wrap the material around the 
moss, forming a ball shape, then place the whole into the pot, 
pressing it well below the rim of the pot. By placing them 
well down in the pot it avoids to. some extent a possibility of 
the seed being floated off during watering afterwards. Other 
methods of sowing are to procure a quantity of peat fibre or 
even sawdust, pressing it firmly down and watering before 
sowing the seed, or pieces of sawn deal cut to the shape of the 
pots and plunged just below the rim of the pot make an 
admirable seed-bed. The success or failure of germinating the 
seedlings, if the seed be good, will depend almost entirely on 
the treatment the seed gets. We find that the seed germinates 
much more freely when placed in the warm, moist conditions 
of a propagating case—that is, for the above-mentioned classes 
of Orchids. 
One of the greatest considerations in germinating seed is the 
watering. Carelessness in watering is the principal cause of 
failure to raise seedlings, the seed being so light that the least 
careless use of the water-can suffices to wash the germinating 
plants from their position to destruction. The best time to 
replant is when the first leaf has developed and the root makes 
its appearance. 
The terrestrial Orchids, such as Phaius, Calanthes, Zygopeta- 
lums, Cypripediums, and also such Epiphytal kinds as Odonto- 
gl os sums, etc., cannot be induced to germinate satisfactorily 
except when sown in pots in which plants of their own kinds 
have become established. It is not advisable to select recently 
potted plants, or, on the other hand, plants where the potting 
compost is at all on the close side of decay. Where the com¬ 
post. is in good condition, with ample roots near the surface, the 
seeds of this section, with due regard to watering requirements, 
will be found to germinate freely. Seed is best sown imme¬ 
diately it has ripened and fallen from the seed pod. If kept, 
it should be placed in a cool place, but not where the seed 
would he likely to shrivel from the conditions being too diy. 
H. J. Chapman. 
Hardy Herbaceous Border. 
The exceptionally warm weather, combined with the drying 
winds which we are now experiencing, will have a very detri¬ 
mental effect upon plants which have been placed in the 
borders this spring, unless they receive frequent attention. 
Herbaceous plants which were divided and replanted in the 
autumn or spring will also show signs of distress, and where 
the foliage of these can be seen flagging, good soakings of 
water should be given at the root, which will quickly revive 
them. A damping overhead will also prove of great assistance, 
especially if given during the evening after the sun is down. 
The hoe should also be kept busy among all flowering plants 
for the suppression of weeds, which are much in evidence now, 
and to assist in promoting a free growth. 
Mulching. — In warm weather there is nothing more effec¬ 
tive for keeping the ground moist than applying a mulching 
of some suitable material, and where this is done the amount 
of work necessary to keep the plants in a. healthy state, is much 
lessened. Old Mushroom-bed manure is excellent for the pur¬ 
pose, if applied about 2 in. or 3 in. thick. Failing this, a top- 
dressing of soil which is to spare will answer the purpose, such 
as old potting soil or that taken from a frame, no matter how 
poor the quality. This should be spread over to about the 
same depth as mentioned above, and it can be easily stirred 
with the hoe when necessary. For all plants, such as Pent- 
stemons, Montbretias, Chrysanthemums, and the like, which are 
planted in borders by themselves and cannot obtain a. deep 
root-hold before warm weather sets in, a mulching is of great 
benefit, and after a dry summer the difference in flowering 
plants which have been treated in this way and those which 
have not is most apparent. 
Summer-flowering Chrysanthemums. —Those which had the 
points pinched out as previously advised should by now be 
making good headway and will require supporting. Neat, 
strong stakes should be used, and several to. a plant, as these 
require plenty of room to develop their quantities of flowers 
perfectly, and by tying out the growth, a much finer display is 
obtained. A little stimulant may now be given occasionally 
in showery weather, if possible, but failing this, it can be 
thoroughly soaked in with the water-can. There are numerous 
sorts to select from, but guano or Clay's fertiliser will be found 
very good. For a. change, one might give a dusting of soot or 
some weak farmyard liquid. Should any insect pests make 
their appearance, apply a dusting of tobacco powder to the 
points of the growths and syringe out well next morning. If 
any flowerbuds appear, which is frequently the case with some 
varieties, these should be pinched out carefully. On warm, 
sunny days the plants should receive a thorough damping over 
tlie foliage, in the evening for preference. 
The large-flowering florists’ varieties of Pentstemons should 
also be supported now, but one stick will be sufficient to each 
plant. The soil between these will need to be kept, stirred, 
especially on heavy ground, which quickly cracks when dry, 
and dampings overhead should be given daily in dry weather. 
Hollyhocks which were sown and planted out this year ought 
by now to be making good plants, and a top-dressing of well- 
decayed cow-manure will prove most beneficial. These enjoy 
abundance of moisture during the summer months and liberal 
feeding with weak manure. This should not be overdone, cr 
the disease is almost sure to make its appearance. 
Iris pumila. —As its name implies, this is a very dwarf 
section of the Iridaceae, and the several varieties in various 
shades of colour are excellent plants for the rockery or front 
of the herbaceous border. Although their flowering season 
extends from March till the end of May, they are seen at then- 
best about the middle of the present month, and a good-sized 
group then gives a most pleasing display. A partially shaded 
position seems to suit them best, and in a moderately good soil 
they will grow freely and'need but little attention. 
A. E. Thatcher. 
Aldenliam House. Gardens, Elstree, 
