May 27. 1905. 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
4 31 
Hardy Fruit. 
Grafted Trees.— An examination should be made, and 
where it is seen that the scions are making satisfactory head¬ 
way, loosen the clay or wax, and if the binding material 
appears likely to cut the union this also should be loosened 
a bit, and before much growth advances secure each scion with 
a straight stick about 18 in. long, making it secure to the 
stock, tying both with stout pieces of raffia. Those grafted 
last year will require similar support, as wind as well as birds 
will sometimes break them off at their junction. Keep all 
growth on the stocks persistently rubbed off, or they rob the 
tree of much sap which ought to go to the support of the 
crafts; budded trees require similar attention. 
Plums.— Trees against walls have set well, and in many in¬ 
stances will require thinning, especially such varieties as 
Monarch, Czar and Victoria, sure croppers when Plums are 
about at all. Disbudding the Plum is not practised nearly as 
much as it should be, especially on wood made last year, and 
laid in nearly full length for extension. Such shoots push 
many more growths than are necessary to form spurs ; retain 
only those that are placed near the wall, and allow ample space 
for light and air to assist the ripening of both fruit and branch. 
Suckers are sometimes a great nuisance with Plums ; a search 
should be made of their origin and cut clean out with the 
pruning knife. Green aphis, too, appear particularly fond of 
these trees, and either an insecticide should be used as men¬ 
tioned in the last hardy fruit calendar for Peach trees, or the 
warden engine brought to bear upon them once or twice weekly 
to rid them of this pest. In the middle of the first week of 
the present month the weather changed for the better, and on 
many soils will have caused a hard baked surface after so. much 
wet. To rectify this, ply the flat hoe every few weeks where 
mulching is not practical, and trees heavily laden would be 
much improved could they receive aid from the manure-tank, 
but this is usually a scarce article in summer, but not a drop 
should be wasted where fruit trees are grown.. 
Bush Fruits. — Now that the fruits are swelling, some 
approved insecticide may be used on the Red and White 
Currant if affected with aphis, and they seldom escape this 
pest, quassia extract or “Abol" being safe. .Hoe the ground 
frequently, and where good manure is plentiful a mulch round 
each bush would assist the crop to mature finer berries ; and 
although Black Currants usually keep cleaner than the former, 
they may be treated in like manner as regards washing, also 
manuring. Gooseberries are now plentiful and daily in demand 
in most places, so it is best not to use any wash or powder 
for the caterpillar, should such be in evidence, but hand-pick¬ 
ing resorted to, a. couple of men getting ever many bushes in 
a day. Rub off any strong shoots pushing from the base, as it 
is best to keep them on a clean 6-in. stem. The summer-like 
weather of late has given the cultivator a chance of killing up 
seedling weeds by plying the Dutch hoe between the quarters. 
Mulching the roots of fruit trees during the summer months 
not only prevents the ground from cracking, it also* assists to 
retain what little moisture there may have been in the ground 
beforehand. In wet summers it does more harm than good, 
and even in very hot weather I think little is gained in putting 
it down before the month of June is with us, as the nights are 
generally cold, with heavy dews, when it is better to keep the 
surface stirred occasionally either with the hoe or fork. Trees 
planted last autumn and early this season will be much 
benefited with a mulch of partly decayed manure, and an eye 
must be kept on such trees that they do not suffer from 
drought, and should they show signs of drooping, give them a 
thorough syringing towards 5 p.m., while late planted' trees 
should be relieved of any blossom or fruit. These planted last 
November may be allowed to carry two or three fruits if the 
trees are growing satisfactorily, but it is growth wanted the 
next year or two, and not so much a question of fruit. Keep 
wall trees syringed three or four times a week while the bright 
weather continues, especially Peaches and Nectarines, so 
amenable to red spider. James Matve. 
Bicton Gardens, Devonshire. 
The Flower Garden. 
Hardy Primula;.— There are many of the hardy Primula' 
other than the well-known Polyanthus and Auricula which 
might with advantage be more often seen in our gardens. I ho 
majority flower in spring and early summer, and possess a 
certain charm and beauty wholly their own. Without enlarg¬ 
ing on the claims of the Polyanthus, one is tempted to put 
forth a plea for the Auriculas of the alpine section, which are 
not SO' largely used as spring bedding plants as are the former. 
The varieties of Primula Auricula are easily raised from seed, 
which may still be sown, although it were better done earlier. 
After flowering, propagation may be effected by division of 
the offsets but on the whole, seedlings flower the more freely. 
Among seedlings all colours will be found, and a mixed bed is 
of much beauty and interest in April and May. 
Primula japonica. is one' of the best species and fairly well 
known. It also' may be freely raised from seed, which if sown 
this spring will produce flowering plants for next season. This 
species is perennial and rejoices in a moist somewhat shaded 
position, where, if left undisturbed, it will continue to' increase 
in beauty yearly. If desired for spring bedding young plants, 
carefully looked after in reserve quarters, may be successfully 
transplanted in spring. 
Primula denticulata has been previously referred to earlier 
in the season, and likes a moist position with less shade than 
Primula japonica. 
Primula rosea is a lovely little sjiecies, bearing abundance of 
carmine-pink flowers and doing well in a position similar to 
that suggested for Primula japonica, but should be accorded a 
permanent position. 
Primula cortusoides is a charming species, with clusters of 
rose-coloured flowers, which we occasionally see very effective 
in some of our public parks. It may be raised from seed, and 
if necessary grown on in pots or boxes previous to planting 
out. 
Primula sikkimensis is a splendid species well worth giving 
a trial in rather moist ground in a position somewhat shaded. 
The flowers are produced in heads, are pale lilac in colour, and 
so mewhat pendulous. Seeds of this species* as with practically 
all Primulas, should be sown as soon as possible after ripening. 
The foregoing comprise but a few of the enormous number 
of hardy Primulas, but they serve to show what a. wealth of 
beautv we may obtain from one genus of plants alone. 
B. W. J. 
Herbaceous Calceolarias in Cold Frames. 
It is fairly well known that Calceolarias require quite cool 
treatment for their successful cultivation, and yet many 
batches of plants are spoiled every year through coddling, 
owing to the fact of their being subjected to too high a tem¬ 
perature during the winter and spring months. I have had a 
good measure of success with these charming flowers for many 
vears by pursuing the orthodox method of growing them in 
frames during summer and autumn, and then wintering them 
in a cool pit or on shelves in a cool greenhouse. 
Last season I resolved to modify my system of cultivation, 
and the results have been so entirely satisfactory that I desire 
briefly to record the system pursued for the benefit of the 
readers of The Gardening World in general, and for amateur 
readers in particular. 
To be exact, I sowed the seed on June 29tli in a seed-pan 
in a compost of equal parts of loam and leaf-mould, with a 
good dash of sand, the compost being passed through a kin. 
sieve, and the rough portion placed over the drainage. The 
surface having been made perfectly smooth, it was watered 
through a fine rose, and shortly afterwards the seed was sown 
and dusted over with very fine soil and covered with a pane 
of glass. As the seed-pan was placed in the same frame in 
which the plants were grown till they came into flower, I will 
describe it, as I am not sure that the same results could have 
been attained in an ordinary frame with the plants standing 
on the surface of the ground. 
