June 3, 1905. 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
449 
aiven. much trouble, in spite of frequent doses 
of quassia extract, one of the best insecticides 
for this pest. 
Apricots and Peaches. —Given the final thin¬ 
ning to the fruit, 4 in. apart for the former and 
6 im to 8 in. for the latter should suffice for 
most trees, the majority of Peaches and Nec¬ 
tarines having to remain on the trees muon 
longer before coming to perfection than do 
Apricots. Before securing the shoots to the 
wall, survey the trees once more to see that no 
unnecessary growth is retained, allowing 
ample space between the ligatures, tackling 
those that have made most growth first, 
and pinching out the points of any extra 
robust shoot to equalise the flow of sap over 
the tree. 
Cherries. — Frequent examination is im¬ 
perative among these, as the black aphis just 
mentioned proves a most troublesome pest, 
soon crippling the young growing shoots if left 
lon w to themselves. In bad cases no one need 
hesitate to remove the points of those shoots 
not required for extension, stopping at the 
fourth or fifth leaf, entirely removing any 
shoots not required to form spurs, or, to be 
brief, treat as advocated for Plums in last 
week’s calendar, and well syringe the trees 
with quassia on two successive evenings, tho¬ 
roughly washing them next morning with , the 
garden engine. James Mayne. 
Bicton Gardens, Devonshire. 
The Flower Garden. 
With the advent of June the flowers of 
spring are succeeded by those of summer, but 
it is doubtful if the flowers of any season are 
appreciated so much a® those of early and late 
spring. Chief among the latter are the May 
flowering Tulips, which, from their robust 
growth and general adaptability to soil and 
situation, are flowers for the many, not the 
few. That these tulips have become more 
popular of late years is obvious from the fine 
displays seen in different localities. There is 
a good deal of similarity between some of the 
varieties, but still there remains a wide field 
for selection. 
Among the earliest to flower were retroflexa, 
light yellow and elegans, crimson ; both are 
fairly well known, but might be more widely 
grown, as the reflexed petals give these 
varieties a distinct and unique appearance. 
There is a fine selection of crimson, red, and 
scarlet varieties, and, among others, William 
Pitt, Harry Yeitch, Europe ,and Iris are ex¬ 
cellent sorts, growing quite 2g ft. high and 
lasting in beauty for' weeks. 
The white varieties include Parisian White, 
a very fine sort ; also Picotee, having the 
petals edged with pink, and La. Yierge, which 
seems to me indistinguishable from the first- 
named. La Candeur is stronger growing than 
the three just mentioned, and is a really good 
white variety. 
Among yellow varieties, Parisian Yellow, 
Bouton d’Or, and Gold Cup will be found use¬ 
ful and charming sorts, the latter being 
slightly flaked with crimson. 
La Merveille is a lovely coral red variety 
flowering towards the end of May and making 
one of the most charming displays of the 
season. One could write at length on the 
glories of the salmon-coloured, varieties like 
Clara Butt and the beauty of Rose Queen, as 
well as hosts of others. 
Enough has been said to show that those 
who take up the cultivation of May flowering 
Tulips will be rewarded by a beautiful display 
over a very long period. These Tulips are ad¬ 
mirably suited for cultivation in the mixed 
border, or may be planted in the grass, where 
they will continue to flourish for years. 
B. W. J. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
Vegetable Marrows. —Those who are fortu 
nate enough to possess facilities for growing 
their early Marrows in portable frames on 
slight hot beds, and have acted as advised in 
previous calendars, will now have them in full 
bearing, and in addition to this, by gradually 
hardening and removin the lights and frames 
whenever the weather is favourable, these 
will continue to do so as long as Marrows are 
required in the autumn. On removing the 
frames the plants should receive a good sur¬ 
face dressing of turfy loam, decayed leaf-soil, 
and old mushroom-bed manure in equal pro¬ 
portions, and see that the roots never suffer 
for want of water. Later-sown plants ought 
now to be planted without delay on nicely 
prepared beds. As is generally known, the 
Marrow is a gross feeder, and a liberal amount 
of manure in a half-decayed state should 
always be employed. 
Pumpkins, Gourds, and ridge Cucumbers 
should be treated likewise. Should cold winds 
prevail, some form of protection must be 
afforded them. Failing hand-lights, which 
are unquestionably the best, short Spruce 
boughs answer admirably. 
Tomatos —Successful outside crops of these 
can by no means always be depended upon, 
even when every care has been bestowed on 
the preparation of the plants, as so very much 
depends on our uncertain climate, but it is 
practically useless to expect good results, 
however genial the summer may be, from late 
sown and badly grown plants. These ought 
now to be thoroughly established in 6-in. or 
7-in. pots, quite hardened, and if some fruits 
are set on them so much the better. The site 
should always be a sheltered but open and 
sunny one, and the plants put out as early in 
June as possible. The soil should not be too 
rich, and if the roots can be somewhat con¬ 
fined the fruits will set much more freely. 
South walls or fences should be utilised for 
these as much as possible. 
Runner Beans.— Plants which were sown in 
pots or boxes, raised in cold frames, and have 
been properly hardened, ought now to be 
planted on well-prepared ground in double 
lines from 10 in. to 12 in. apart. Thoroughly 
water in, stake at the same time, and damp 
over the plants on bright afternoons for a 
few days to assist them to start away freely. 
Sow Sweet Herbs, more Parsley, Lettuce, 
Short Horn Carrots, French Beans, and 
Cauliflowers for late use. 
E. Beckett. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. 
The Stove and Greenhouse. 
I shall endeavour in the future to so pen 
my weekly notes on plants under glass that 
they will be helpful to the amateur who has 
only limited experience and accommodation, 
as well as to other readers who have a wider 
experience and extensive ranges of glass¬ 
houses. I have a great regard for the enthu¬ 
siastic amateur gardener who cultivates 
tdants, etc., as a pastime after business hours, 
for he follows the gentle art out of pure love 
for it, or as a healthy hobby, and not for any 
pecuniary advantage. 
Seasonable Axioms. —At this season above 
all others constant war must be waged with 
the various insects known to infest plants 
grown under glass, for their numbers increase 
at an alarming rate at this time if measures 
are not taken betimes to check them. Do not 
wait for them to become numerous, but fumi¬ 
gate, or syringe with an approved .in¬ 
secticide, as soon as their presence is per¬ 
ceived. If allowed to gain a strong hold 
drastic measures have to be resorted to, whicli 
would possibly injure the plants. Never 
afford room for unhealthy or poor varieties of 
plants. They occupy the same amount of 
room and attention as the best, besides re¬ 
flecting discredit on the cultivator. 
Cleanliness in glasshouses is as essential 
to success in the cultivation of plants as it is 
in dwellings for our own health. Attend to 
the removal of decaying flowers and foliage, 
and keep the glass and woodwork free from 
filth. Likewise all pots or other receptacles 
in which the plants are grown must be kept 
free from dirt and mossy growth. 
Plants in Rooms.— Be careful not to over¬ 
water plants that have been recently re¬ 
potted, or the soil will become sour, and the 
roots refuse to permeate it. It is better to 
err on the side of dryness until re-established. 
Never stand pot plants in saucers of water, or 
allow the superfluous water that passes 
through the ball of soil to remain therein ; 
this is a fruitful source of disappointment 
with plants kept in rooms where the condi¬ 
tions are not favourable to their drying 
quickly. TV here gas is the lighting medium 
it is advisable to remove the plants when the 
gas is lit, replacing them in the morning 
after ventilation has been given. Golden 
rules to observe in the cultivation of room 
plants are not to over-water, to keep the 
foliage clean bv sponging and syringing every 
two or three days, and to maintain as healthy 
and natural conditions as circumstances will 
allow. K - M - 
Hardy Herbaceous Plants. 
Spring Bedding.— The majority of subjects 
used for this purpose will by now be past their 
best, and where other plants have to take 
their place for the summer, those which have 
been bright during the earlier months of the 
year must be lifted, so that the ground can be 
prepared afresh. A spare piece of ground can 
be utilised for propagating these for next 
year’s display, and it is best to take up one 
subject at the time, divide the plants, and 
then arrange in batches of a sort, planting the 
whole in rows. This includes Aubretias, 
Arabis, Alvssums, Iberis, and the like. The 
double Arabis, which is now so popular for 
this purpose, can be easily propagated by 
taking off cuttings at the present time and in¬ 
serting thickly in a frame, and when well 
rooted the points of the growths should be 
pinched out, so that they make good bushy 
plants. The Iberis are among the most showy 
of white, dwarf-flowering plants, and quite the 
best of them is a somewhat new variety of 
perennial Candytuft called I. sempervirens 
Snowflake. This is very fine in growth, but 
remains compact, and the large flower heads 
are of the purest white. It is easily propa¬ 
gated from cuttings inserted now. Cuttings 
should also be put in of the better Rock- 
Cresses or Aubretias as soon as they appear. 
If made carefully and kept close in a frame for 
a few days they root readily. A good selec¬ 
tion will be found in Fire King, a brilliant 
reddish-crimson ; Prichard’s Al. a very large, 
rich purple ; Dr. Mules, deep purplish-blue, 
and Moerheimi. a beautiful pink. Alyssums, 
of which citrinum. florepleno, and the common 
saxatile are available, are all very showy. 
These generally seel down freely, or seed can 
be sown now in warmth and pricked off-when 
large enough into boxes. When all the plants 
have been lifted from the beds, the ground 
should be deeply dug, but not manured again 
if this, was added for the spring bedding 
plants. 
