4 VO 
THE GARDENING WORLD. 
June 10, 1905. 
cases two or three fruits being ample ; but no 
rule can be laid down, much depending upon 
variety, age of tree, and whether it is in a 
thriving state. Each should be carefully con¬ 
sidered before commencing to thin out. 
Plums do not promise well in many places, I 
glean, and will require no attention in this 
matter, but it is to be hoped that a. better 
state of things will be apparent later. 
Watering.— During periods of drought this 
important matter must not be overlooked, 
especially against walls or fences, where 
the rainfall is not near as much as in the 
open. Pull aside any mulch, and if found any 
way hard, break up the surface with a fork, 
and apply a good soaking of water, incor¬ 
porating with it drainings from the stable or 
cowyard if possible, especially if the trees are 
carrying a crop. James Mayne. 
Bicton Gardens, Devonshire. 
Campanula garganica hirsuta. 
Of bell flowers one might almost say there 
is nO‘ end to the number of varieties, and it 
is not a little difficult to select a small num¬ 
ber for the adornment of either border or 
rockery, for no sooner are the requirements 
of any particular place stated than scores of 
varieties suggest themselves as suitable for 
that place and purpose. 
The variety above-named is one that might 
always be included in even the smallest selec¬ 
tions for planting on rock-work, and is equally 
good as a pot-plant or for hanging-baskets. It 
is of low, prostrate habit, producing an abun¬ 
dance of cordate or heart-shaped leaves, which, 
together with the stems, are thickly covered 
with whitish hairs. The flowers are flat, the 
five long and narrow sepals radiating star- 
like make the flowers appear large in propor¬ 
tion to the size of the plant. They are borne 
cm slender footstalks rising, from the axils of 
the leaves, and being of free-flowering habit 
the plant is almost covered with bloom for a 
considerable period. The colour may be de¬ 
scribed as purplish mauve, running almost 
white at the base of the sepals ; but some 
plants are paler and other's darker in tint, 
the variation probably being due to environ¬ 
ment. 
A light, porous soil suits the plant, and a 
little old mortar placed round the roots seems 
to encourage growth. It may be propagated 
by means of cuttings of the young growth 
taken from the centre of the plant when just 
long enough to be firmly inserted in sandy 
leaf-soil. Cover with a bell-glass, and shade 
from sun until rooted. Heather Bell. 
Snowfly on Ferns. 
May I add to your note on this pest (p. 465) 
that fumigation twice in succession within a 
fortnight is advisable, since those- which sub¬ 
sequently appear—that is, if the fumigation is 
properly done—are merely those which at that 
particular time happened to be in the tem¬ 
porary dormant condition between the creep¬ 
ing and the flying stages, and these are killed 
by the second fumigation within ten days or 
so, as stated, thus clearing the house entirely. 
The proper way is to anticipate the flying 
stage altogether by fumigating as soon as the 
creeping insects are observed, as these take 
some weeks after hatching before reaching the 
perfect stage. Spraying has the disadvantage 
that the fly almost invariably settles on the 
under side of the foliage after its erratic flight. 
C. T. D. 
- OUR - 
NORTHERN GARDENS. 
Hardy Herbaceous Plants. 
Arabises. — These hardy spring flowers are 
most useful, A. albida for carpeting Hyacinth 
and Tulip beds, and A. a. fl. pi. for filling 
beds for spring display, or for mixed beds and 
borders or rockeries. Now is a good time to 
put in cuttings to be planted out in autumn-. 
A cold frame facing north or stood behind a 
wall is the best place to- root them, in. Dibble 
the cuttings 2 in. to- 3 in. apart into sandy 
loam, and when rooted prick out into nursery 
lines, where they will get plenty of sunshine, 
a-s a firm, “ stocky ” growth should be en¬ 
couraged. 
Early Chrysanthemums. —These are now 
beginning to- grow freely, and should be 
staked before there is any danger of their 
being broken by winds. A sprinkling of soot 
or other stimulant round the plants in 
showery weather will give increased vigour, 
Chrysanthemums- being gross feeders. 
Staking and Tying— All the taller subjects 
in mixed beds and borders must be closely 
attended to- with staking and tying, or serious 
damage will be the result. This is especially 
the case with such things a-s- Delphiniums, 
Asters, and Pyre-thrums. See that the height 
and stoutness 1 of the stakes are suited to the 
respective plants. Tar twine is preferable to 
raffia for tying the stronger-growing subjects. 
Primula Sieboldii _Before these lovely 
late spring flowers go- out of bloom the- labels 
should be renewed, if necessary, as it is im¬ 
possible to identify the varieties by sight after 
the foliage has begun to decay, so similar in 
appearance are most of the varieties. 
Conservatory and Greenhouse. 
Hydrangeas, —Young plants grown for 
single trusses, if they have been in a little 
heat, will now be opening their trusses, and 
will make a good display in the conservatory 
for a considerable period. Those grown quite 
cool, whether young or old plants, should be 
assisted with occasional applications of weak 
liquid manure or occasional sprinklings on the 
surface of the soil with Clay’s fertiliser, or 
similar dry manure. 
Hardwooded Plants. —Most of these may 
now be stood out of do-ors till the autumn. 
Select a sheltered spot, but not overhung by 
trees, and there stand the plants on a few 
inches of coal ashes to prevent worms getting 
into the pots. 
Cinerarias.— Cinerarias that were sown 
early in Mav will now be fit for prick¬ 
ing olf into well-drained pans or boxes. 
Use a compost of equal parts of loam 
and leaf soil, passed through a, sie-ve, with 
half-inch mesh. Give plenty of room between 
the seedlings, as they should not be potted too 
quickly. Keep them near the glass, in a cold 
frame, and attend to shading and watering. 
C. C. 
The Kitchen Garden. 
Peas. —These are strong and healthy this 
season. As soon as they appear above the 
soil it is an excellent plan to give a good dust¬ 
ing with fresh soot. This not only acts as a 
stimulant, but keeps off birds and slugs. 
Another application of the soot may be made 
at time of staking, which should not be de¬ 
ferred after the Peas are 3 in. high. In late 
districts a row of “ William the First” may be 
sown this week or next-, and this will finish 
the Peas for the season. 
Cauliflower. — Keep the Dutch hoe gointr 
among these and all others of the Brassica 
family. Plant at intervals for succession. I 
find that for general use “ Dwarf Erfurt ” is 
hard to beat. 
Carrots. —Thin this crop when very small, 
and mulch between the rows with mowings 
from the lawns. This and an occasional dust¬ 
ing with soot often ward off the dreaded 
Carrot maggot. 
Onions should be treated in the same way, 
and the mulching renewed occasionally till 
after the- middle of July. Thinning requires 
constant attention, and the sooner it is den- 
after the various seedlings are large enough 
to handle, tire more certain we are of success. 
Saladings. These are somewhat neglected 
in Scotland, I am afraid, which is a pity, as 
especially in hot weather, they are most whole¬ 
some. To have really fine salads we must 
sow or plant, on very rich soil. Also, it is 
better to put in small quantities weekly, thus 
ensuring a constant supply of tender material 
tor the salad bowl. Mustard and Cress is 
always of best quality if sown in boxes and 
placed nr a frame or greenhouse. 
General Kemarks. — Continue earthing 
Potatoes as they become ready. Do not defer 
tins too long, as the work is rendered much 
more difficult-, and considerable damage mav 
be done to the foliage. Finish planting 
Celery as soo-n as it is well hardened off. Be 
very liberal to this crop as regards both meat 
and drink. Give Asparagus and Seakale a 
good dressing of common salt. 
Preston, Linlithgow. 
C. Blair. 
Hardy Fruit. 
Peaches on walls! ought to receive some at¬ 
tention. Superfluous growths ought to be 
disbudded, especially extra, vigorous shoots. 
I consider it much better to remove these at 
once than to: wait till a- later period, as they 
only draw away sap from the wood, and are 
early induced to ripen sufficiently to bear 
fruit. At the same time thin out all weak or 
deformed fruit, but defer the final thinning! 
until there is some indication of how they are 
to 1 swell. A very sharp watch should be kept 
for spider or thrip, and on there being the| 
slightest indication means should be taken ai 
once to prevent their spread. 
Apricots also require a little attention ii 
thinning points and regulating strong growths 
which are also- much better to be removed at 
once. Tire number left should be carefully 
regulated with regard to the wall space to bt 
filled. They should be arranged to fill th<| 
space' comfortably without overcrowding, ano 
so allow the wood to- get thoroughly ripened 
for next year’s crop. This last is greatly 
aided by wired Walls, so that the branche: 
