488 
For the rook garden Itibes lac list re is of 
more tlian usual interest, and is an excellent 
subject for clothing a large boulder. It grows 
verj freely, and numerous racemes of flowers 
are produced from the axils of the leaves ; in 
fact, the whole shrub is clothed with yellow 
flowers spotted with red. This is also a free 
grower, and a sunny, well-drained situation 
will suit its requirements. Ribes Lobbii, 
though not such a free grower as those 
mentioned above, is of easy culture and highly 
ornamental, the flowers being large, produced 
in twos or threes, having white petals and a 
deep purple calyx, which makes a most pleas¬ 
ing contrast. The weather of late has been 
most trying for recently-planted shrubs, and 
every inducement should be given, as before 
advised, to get these to grow away freely. 
The surface soil should be kept stirred to pre¬ 
vent cracking, and any young shoots which 
were killed by the frost will need a light 
pruning. ‘ A. E. Thatcher. 
Aldenham House Gardens, Elstree. 
Orchids for Amateurs. 
Masdevallias.— There are, perhaps, more 
species belonging to the genus Masdevallia 
than are to be found in any other genus of the 
Orchid family. Of late years the cultivation 
of Masdevallias has fallen off considerably, 
and it is very rarelv indeed we find a well- 
grown specimen even of the more showy and 
attractive kinds which a few years back 
formed some of the most prominent subjects 
in the principal Orchid exhibits at the most 
prominent exhibitions. It is not because 
there is any difficulty in their cultivation, for 
they are among the most tractable to culture 
to be found in the Orchid family, and they 
are thus to be particularly recommended for 
cultivation by amateurs. Nor can any excuse 
be found for want of attractive qualities, for 
there are none more varied in tints of colour. 
Thev blend remarkably with almost all 
other flowers when grouped for effect, and 
they are never more effective than when mixed 
with Ferns, with which they may be easily 
cultivated throughout the year. 
The classes I would particularly recommend 
are those belonging to the large flowered sec¬ 
tion, such as M. Ve-itchii, M. coccinea, better 
known in gardens as M. harryana. This 
species is particularly varied, and can be had 
in almost any shade of colour. M. ignea and 
other species and hybrids which have been 
obtained from the intercrossing of the species 
of this section may also be added to the col¬ 
lection. These flower through the spring and 
summer months, and last several weeks in 
perfection. 
Cultural RequirementF— Some few years 
ago I wrote an article on Masdevallias in 
The Gardening World, recommending a 
general temperature throughout the country of 
50 degrees as a normal winter condition for 
these plants. A gentleman very kindly wrote 
to me privately in the week the note appeared, 
and remarked that he thought such a recom¬ 
mendation absurd, for at his place in the 
South of England their temperature during 
winter was more frequently nearer 40 than 
50 degrees. True, this may be all right in 
particularly favoured districts, but for general 
purposes 1 still maintain that 50 degrees is 
the most suitable condition for the successful 
culture of Masdevallias. In cold weather the 
temperature may be permitted to fall lower, 
lout whenever there is a decline in temperature 
it should always be accompanied by decreased 
moisture both in the atmosphere and in the 
compost about the roots of the plants. Plants 
suffer less from cold in a dry state than is the 
THE GARDENING WORLD 
case when moisture is retained about them. 
I am sure that a great deal of the black 
spotting of the foliage is caused by excess 
of moisture prevailing with low readings of 
the thermometer. 
Practically the whole of the Masdevallias 
are found growing at high altitudes, where 
moisture is excessive throughout the year, so 
that in the glasshouses here they will require 
abundant moisture during the summer and 
growing season of the plants. A north aspect 
house suits them, where abundant and free 
circulation of air may be provided, and they 
are thus somewhat protected from the hot 
summer sunshine. The plants commence 
growing in the early part of summer, and the 
flower scapes often are produced with the 
young leaf as well as from the previous 
season’s growths ; but as a rule the plants 
make their roots about the end of August or 
beginning of September. It is best thus to 
attend to any potting requii’ements at the 
rooting season. Not only do the new roots 
quickly get hold of the fresh compost, but 
they have not to withstand the effect of hot, 
dry weather that would be the case from 
spring potting. The pots should be drained 
tb one-half their depths. The compost should 
consist of equal parts of fibrous peat and 
chopped sphagnum moss. Water thoroughly, 
wetting the compost through after potting, 
and keep the house as moist as possible. 
Shade from bright sunshine throughout the 
year. H. J. Chapman. 
--—-—- 
OUR PRIZE COMPETITIONS. 
ESSAY COMPETITION (I). 
Prizes.— (1) Two Guineas; (2) One Guinea. 
Open to all Readers. 
The above Prizes will be given for the best 
essays on :— 
“What I would do with a Villa 
Garden, in the production of flowers, 
fruits, and vegetables.” 
The garden may be of any shape, providing the 
area is approximately 3,000 square feet. Give a 
rough plan of the garden, indicating which is the 
north by an arrow; show the position of the 
various crops ; if it is decided to have a lawn and 
flower-beds, their position with regard to the 
dwelling-house should be shown. Walks, flower- 
borders, fruit-trees or bushes, and vegetable 
quarters should be so disposed as to give the 
linest effect from the house and be in harmony 
with the surroundings. State if the garden is 
enclosed with a brick wall, open or closed fencing. 
The skill and taste displayed by the competitor 
in his arrangements will have great weight in the 
adjudication of the prizes. The expenditure in 
first stocking the garden -with seeds, plants, trees, 
bushes, and fertilisers should be stated, and the 
annual cost afterwards. The essay should be 
about 1,000 words, and must be sent in on or 
before July 31st next. Mark envelopes in the 
left-hand corner “Garden Competition.” 
v —----y 
Horticulturists in Paris.— The delegates 
from the Council of the Royal Horticultural 
Society to the International Horticultural 
Exhibition in Paris (Sir Trevor Lawrence, 
the Earl of Ilchester, Sir Albert Rollit, M.P., 
Mr. Gurney Fowler, Mr. Veitch, and Mr. 
Wilks) were entertained on Sunday, May 21st, 
at a luncheon, at which were present the 
Ministers of Agriculture and Fine Arts. They 
were also entertained at a banquet, and were 
presented to President Loubet. 
June 17,1905. 
Sweet Peas 
. . AND . . 
THE WAY TO GROW THEM. 
(Concluded from page 452-) 
Manuring. —It is commonly supposed that 
Sweet Peas will take any amount and any 
kind of 1 manure which may be given to them. 
To a certain extent this idea is correct, for 
they are gross feeders ; but, as with all other 
flowers, manure> must be supplied judiciously. 
In autumn the ground should be prepared by 
working at least three feet deep. A liberal 
supply of superphosphate of lime should at 
that time be incorporated, and horse or cow 
manure should also be added. Some growers 
place this latter manure at the bottom of their 
trenches, but I am inclined to 1 think that it is 
best to mix it well with the soil, although, 
perhaps, the deeper soil should be made the 
richer. When the ground is being prepared 
other manures, such as soot and bone meal, 
may also be added; but it is unwise to use 
such fertilisers as sulphate of ammonia or 
sulphate of iron. If the ground has been 
well manured when prepared, no more manure 
should be supplied until the plants are ac¬ 
tually in bloom. Indeed, excessive liberality 
in this respect is resented by Sweet Peas, for 
it creates a tendency to produce foliage at the 
expense of blossoms. It has also been proved, 
I believe, that an excess of manure given to the 
plants during their early stages is one of the 
chief causes of their irritating habit of drop¬ 
ping their undeveloped buds. When the 
plants coiumence to blossom—and not till 
then—manure should be applied. 
Nearly all the well-known fertilisers are 
excellent for this purpose, and I need not 
detail the various foods which can be given, 
for Sweet Peas relish almost anything in the 
way of manure. Suffice it if I say that phos¬ 
phates are particularly beneficial in tlieir 
effects, and that sulphate of ammonia is also 
excellent. If the flowers ire wanted for ex¬ 
hibition, the latter is especially valuable, and 
should be applied about ten days before the 
show. It adds both to the brilliancy and to 
the size of the blooms. 
Before I leave the subject of manuring, let 
me caution my readers against applying arti¬ 
ficial food to the plants when they are dry. 
Be very careful, also, that they are not over¬ 
dosed. When using such powerful chemicals 
as sulphate of ammonia, this latter point is 
exceedingly important. If the gardener can 
obtain several different manures, it is wise to 
use them in rotation. 
Watering is very important, for the plants 
should newer be allowed to flag. When per¬ 
forming this operation the soil should be 
saturated, as sprinklings are worse than use¬ 
less. Evening is the best time for the opera¬ 
tion, and rain water is to be preferred. Fresh 
spring water should be strictly avoided. If 
during dry weather the Dutch hoe is kept 
busy, and if the plants have been given a 
mulch of long stable manure, the plants will 
be benefited, and will need less water than if 
these points are i-eglected. It is- during the 
summer that the wisdom of growing Sweet- 
Pc-as^ in trenches is -seen, for watering is there¬ 
by simplified. Unless the weather be exceed¬ 
ingly wet, the manures to which I have re¬ 
ferred should he applied in the form of 
liquids, and although, a9 I said, it must not 
be given while the soil is dry, watering may 
